ANeonRider

why couldn't he? the ax are the only ones that can't be sold online. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Availablility??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> PM him and find out perhaps?

I would hate that the climate controls are blocked when its opened. Possible to swap the pocket and deck around? lol

That would be nice, but even if they did, I wouldn't be able to mount the whole thing where I want to.

It's the plan. Waiting on my tax refund to come in before I commit though. My RL-p is also one of the black matte finished logoless ones. All of the equipment will be going into a black car. I love the stealth look

Which is sweet. Never thought that any company would use "expensive" 1/0 in their cars.

Like I posted before, to have any benefit, you really need to analyze your dc levels, among other variables, to properly size a capacitor that will work.

Different though when one is more of a cork in the voltage system, when the others are accessories on the system. If all those are done, you won't need any help anyways.

How much do you want again Elias?

I want to mount a Double DIN unit in my 1.5DIN dash opening. Yes, I know it is 1" taller, and I know I need to be doing some modifications. I can handle that. My problem is, the unit I want to use does not come with a cage. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qehudI3MTzg/c...550&I=257AVX706 So, I need to fabricate a way of installing the Double DIN in the dash without use of a cage. Perhaps I can use an already existing kit... and mold it into my factory stereo trim piece. The whole bezel over the stereo and HVAC controls comes off. And use a kit like this one: http://www.scosche.com/scosche_caraudio.as...&ItemID=HA1566B Mold the kit right to the bezel, then slip it into place. in the dash (some dremel work will be needed to fit the 1" taller unit though. I will need to figure out some way of securing the back of the unit to the dash as well, since I wouldn't mind making it a little tougher for a thief to remove it from my possession. Maybe some strapping attached to the kit, and screwed into the rear of the dash. Thoughts guys?

Bezel snaps into dash. Mounting kit will be mounted to bezel. H/U will be mounted to mounting kit. All will slide into the cutout in the dash as one unit, bezel will snap into factory locations, and the rear of the deck will be supported with strapping.

There is a reason why they don't list it.... If it is actually called a Stiffening Capacitor, then its good. Can only use that name if RC approves, and must meet his specifications.

Cap Bank that large will = a ton of ESR, not wanted.

Fancy new units is where its at... my 7894 is getting reliquished to the winter beater when I get home

So are we.

He did it at the amp then. No big deal.

It is pretty much the connector of choice by most manufacturers now.

You can either do it right at the sub, or at the amp, doesn't matter. I do it at the sub so I only have a single run of wiring to the amp. Positive to Positive Negative to Negative

I will most likely be molding that above mounting kit into the bezel, then using strapping to attach the back of the mounting kit to the dash.

That's tiny compared to those monsterousities out there now.

No grounding strap in my car. I know they are different, they don't even have the same size DIN opening.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...7&hl=capacitors There is a HUGE difference between the caps used in amplifier construction and the ones that are thrown together for dc filtering. 95% of them out there have no business in the voltage path, that's for sure. Ed Mienter, a former amplifier and digital crossover designer with Orion and A/D/S told me this : A bank of smaller caps, all wired in series is much better in filtering out dc ripple than a huge cap inline do to the ESR. If you really want to do a good job filtering out the ripple you would need to calculate the inductance of the power cables and get the scope out and calculate for the switching frequency of the amps power supply and then you can determine the value of capacitance needed and which type of cap to use to best eliminate the ripple. With the high current and ripple in the supply voltage the input caps of the amplifier heat up do to the ESR and cause them to fail down the road. An example Ed said was a prototype Orion 8 channel amp he helped design that pulled about 375A at full power, after awhile of testing the bank of input caps physically melted. They replaced the caps, and put a series of smaller caps inline with the power supply to smooth out the ripple and never had a problem afterwards. I would include caps and cap banks in my product line if I was mainstream, can't say they don't sell....

Distortion would be neglible on the substage. If you can hear it, you would need to be donated to science

Ya... that Alpine unit comes with a cage. Great build though.

Any GSM phone should be the same.

www.knukonceptz.com www.weldingsupply.com For good, well priced wiring choices.