Solid_State13

Massive audio has some really efficient ones, the DMX 15 is rated at 100.1 dB Massive Audio :: Subwoofers :: DMX 15- Car Audio Subwoofer

well, you can have both, but you better have a lot of cash on hand and a lot of space/power to work with. For a given amount of money, there is generally a total SPL+SQ that you can have, you just have to decide how much of one you are willing to sacrifice to get the other

If the HDC3 is a better woofer, it will be better regardless of you only feeding it half of its rated RMS But, if you can't spare the cash, then its not even an option and you should probably go with the Alpine

Like the thread says, looking for an amp for mids/highs. This will only be powering the front stage, so I was looking at 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps would work as well, but i'd kinda feel like i was wasting money on 2 extra channels (if this was for me, i would go 4 channel and just bi-amp, but its for a friend). He already has speakers that are 2 ohm and rated at 70 watts RMS. He doesn't have a specific budget for this amp, but around $200 should work for his overall system budget. Also, this is going to be professionally installed, so mainstream brands can cost a little more, since it will save on installation costs. I was looking at: RF Punch 400-2 (would be lots of headroom and plenty of power if he upgrades speakers later) JL G2250 Boston Acoustics GTA-802 Sundown SAX 50.4 (wouldn't have much headroom, but would have the most expandability options if upgraded later) Leaning towards either the RF or the Sundown, but I'm open to suggestions

Ever heard of headroom? yes i've heard of headroom. But like I said before, it seems a little bit overkill to pay for 3X the required power when that money could instead go towards an amp with lower power and higher build quality, especially since a decent amp should have enough headroom even when run at its rated RMS but going back and forth like this isn't really going anywhere, so if you think that the power output of the MB quart trumps the build quality and features of the sundown, just say so

nope, never. My point was that I would rather get a higher quality, lower power amp than spend the money on over 3X the rated RMS of the speakers

first, the subwoofer size does not dictate how low it will play. If you are going for the best sound quality, i would suggest going with a single sub of the highest quality you can afford and choosing the size that works best with 2 cubes of space. It would be better to use a single 12 that requires 1 cube and have extra space than a 15 that requires 3 cubes choked in a 2 cube box. Also you may want to look at getting a single 12 and porting it, it will give you a large boost in output in the lower octaves (the Sundown SA-12 works great in 1.75 cubes, which with port volume would be perfect in 2 cubes)

correct, with that amp, the only way you could run active is if you had a fullrange speaker for the mids/highs that could play down to 500 Hz. Getting a setup like that to work at high volumes might be difficult, however it would be really cool to try if you are open to doing a little fabrication. Something like: Fostex FE126E 4.5" Full Range from Madisound for mids and highs could work crossed over to something like MLI-65 [MLI-65] - $39.60 : Mach 5 Audio might actually work well, and would be pretty unique. but, while it would be fun to experiment with a setup like that, it will be much much easier if you stay passive

That MB Quart actually looks pretty beefy, but it might be a little overkill in the power department. I'm curious to see how it performs Edit: what kind of crossover options does it have? (ie. can you use it to bi-amp?)

Aren't their amps very similar to US Amps? i think i remember hearing that a while back

Over at ROE they tested the CVX in their great 12 challenge (can't seem to find the results page now). The CVX placed 4th in overall average SPL on 800 watts, and this was with other woofers receiving as much as 2kW RMS. It also had a nice broad plateau of near-max SPL (i think it was something like 132 or 135 dB) throughout much of its frequency range. But like I said earlier, i cant find the page with the exact test results on it so im not sure on the exact dB level.

Sundown lists an F3 of 26Hz in their recommended box, i'd say thats plenty low, unless you are trying to hit subsonics at high volume

Hey guys, I have friend who is just about to get a car (Acura TL, the older model, like 2004 maybe) and wants to put a system in it. He has about $1K to spend after setting aside some for wiring/installation of the electronics and some for MDF for the sub enclosure. He already has some JBL components for the front stage (not sure the model, but 70 watts RMS), so thats taken care of and I don't think he really cares about rear stage. So that makes $1000 for: Head Unit- ??? any ideas? Mid/High amp- Rockford Fosgate P400-2, Sundown SAX-125.2, Sundown SAX-50.4, others??? Sub Amp- Sundown SAZ-1000D, others? I figure thats probably a good amount of power to start him out with Sub(s)- This is a trunk car, so not too much space, but he will probably be willing to give most of it up for bass. I can get measurements later, but I would guess 1 15" or 2 12" would be a good fit. Also, he is more concerned with loudness than sound quality. He likes to hit the low notes (i built him an 18" for his room tuned to something like 25Hz and he loved it), but as long as its not a fart box he will probably be happy with it. Initial thoughts for subs are: 2 12" Incriminator Audio 187's 1 15" IA Lethal Injection 1 12" Sundown SA-12 (leaves room to add another later) 1 15" Fi SSD or Q 1 Audioque HDC3 either 12" or 15" depending on price any others??? Any other things like deadening of extra batteries? One other thing, the shop will give a discount on installation if the amps/headunits are bought from them, so if a mainstream amp would work, that would be great Any ideas?

Well, this is the SSA forum, and Audioque aims its products at a different buyer than SSA does. maybe that has something to do with it

I would probably go with kicker, despite the fact that most of their woofers look silly

agreed, 4 18's should be more than enough for daily pounding (which is what it seems like you want) on much, much less than 9kW or even 4.5kW. with that much cone area, a few hundred watts would probably be plenty for daily listening, unless you are deaf

ok, so im about to start a T-line enclosure for a single 10" and im wondering if i should bother doing a double baffle, or even just double thick mounting plate. the line is only 5 inches wide and 11" tall, so its naturally pretty well braced, and it will probably only be seeing somewhere between 250 and 400 watts. so will a double baffle really help? if not, do you think that i should use a mounting plate to give the screws more wood to bite into? thanks for any input

yup, its 23.75" x 34" x 12.5", but its a T-Line tuned to 25Hz, so its a 135" line folded into a box shape = lots of wood on the inside of the box http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv360/S_State13/eD11Kv2T-Line.jpg there's the sketchup model

going to get wood and cut in a little while, any more opinions?

1/2" birch would be delish and there would be no need for an air freshener in ur car unfortunately for my air, i have a trunk.... maybe i could hang a piece of scrap from my rearview.... really, u think 1/2" birch would be fine? ive always just used 3/4 mdf, but i'm assuming that 1/2" birch would make it a hell of a lot lighter, which would be great. is it much more expensive? cuz i'm gonna need a whole 4'x8' sheet for this enclosure would 1/2" be deep enough for the screws to hold the woofer in? Edit: the only bracing i have planned is 45's in the corners, but the line has 4 folds in it, so the longest stretches are maybe 30"

the BL is designed as an SPL sub, whereas the Q is designed to be an SQ sub

ditto

i would try facing the port backward, on the same face as the subs, it will load off of the back of the trunk. same reason why you face the subs themselves back. i wouldn't do subs up in a trunk, thats just asking for more rattle gl man, im sure those things will pound

i would try facing the port backward, on the same face as the subs, it will load off of the back of the trunk. same reason why you face the subs themselves back. i wouldn't do subs up in a trunk, thats just asking for more rattle gl man, im sure those things will pound

i bet it will work fine, although the box seems kinda big for a 10, is it about 2 cubes after aero displacement, or before? need a little more info before we can really help you. we need a budget, either for the sub, or sub and amp, or whatever. and how much power you want to run/what your electrical will support with that much airspace and a relatively high tuning of 36Hz, the first things that come to mind are the Fi BL and Audioque HDC3/SDC2.5. although 2 cubes net is still big for either of those. you may want to think about filling in some of that space (with bracing, or whatever) and dropping some longer aeros in to keep the tuning where you want it Edit: a kicker CVX 10 would probably do well in there, its recommended up to 1.75 cubes and i think kicker recommends a 35Hz tuning, which would be close to what you have. and Lucky, having a 10 doesn't have anything to do with how low it will play, although the tuning does