iamamp3pimp

thanks.

this ones always fun to watch

thats a good idea ill do that if i get off on time today thanks for the tip.

I just realised this is the non audio......can a mod pop this over to the right section for me please?

and heres a few videos of it, just playing around some....

and some pics of the front of the wall, and some of the roof damage from the subs...

this is the dashboard, we put some of that ricer mesh in the dashboard, and i think it looks prety good

ive got a ton of build pics if you are interested, but for now, im just going to show the finished pics... I need to redo the RCA's, as i want them to be all black

compared to an MT

x2 i cant wait for the release of this, depending on how many speakers i have in my car, ill need one or two. for now one will do

so how did this work out?

10's will be hard to come by since the motor is 10.25 in diameter...

anticipation is a mother...

i couldnt agree more besides the smaller footprint that is...

does that make the additional groundwire in some rca's redundant? i used it as y remote wire...

forgot the proof

heres an answer www.weldingsupply.com heres proof of flexability, which i could care less about just wanted all these guys with their super flexable cable to know that they are paying way too much

Thank you, I did a run under the car, the cable is hidden away and pulled pretty tight, it hangs maybe 1/4th inch off the bottom of the vehicle which is not noticeable at all. I will need to pin it up still, any suggestions on what to use? I went under the car so I didn't have the wire under the carpet showing where the cable is. My 0/1 grounding is done only in the rear, it seems a little more difficult to replace the front grounding because the engines grounding cable isnt long enough for me to reclamp it with another 0guage wire. Is there anything to worry about here? if you can find zipties that have a screw mount hole, i would use that and a small self tapping screw...

dont tell me you're not gonna throw 3 layers of tint on the back...

ive had my subs like this for awhile, and it seems to be working well for me. I like it.

indeed it is if you use the 100.4, then you dont need any extra processors because it has everything that you need onboard if you decide to go with a bunch of 2 channels, then you will need some processing.

i use vso image resizer. lookin good BJ

car: 2001 Dodge Neon Electrical: Stocl alt, no big three, 1/0 to 6 Duralast Gold batts in the back Amps: 2 20.1's strapped @ 1 ohm, clamped to be about 1925 watts a piece Subs: 2 DC Audio Level 5's Box: Wall tuned to 31.17 HZ, 15.9 cubes Net Mic: TL Tone: Bass Race Score: 151.0 Legal Mic: TL Tone: 42 HZ Score: 152.0 DB Legal Mic: AC Tone: Bassboxing Score 153.8 DB Outlaw on the dash

get them batts in and youll be okay. H.O.Alt isnt as necesssary as people think

ill be there, for sure.