ibanender
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Everything posted by ibanender
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Anyone know anything about this sub?
ibanender replied to SMpaintball78's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Fun fact about the wGTI's (all that don't look like a PA driver), if you blow it, it's done for. They CAN NOT be reconed, not even by JBL. They literally throw them in the trash. Both coils are edge-wound flat wire, it's a pretty spiffy design. -
Just curious, have you ever used one, or even had one in front of you?
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I need an amp 5-6k at 2 ohm for daily
ibanender replied to Infinite913's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Good luck with that..... -
150's????? idk about that. if i was u, id look into a used mtx 9500 12 or 15. i had a single 12 in the sledgehammer ported box and it SLAMMED. actually i liked it so much and had some cash to spend, i bought a second one and now thats what i have. im in the process on building my box for them both as we speak (or type. which ever u perfer) I dunno if they still suffer from the same problems now, but they used to fall apart around 150 dB. Everybody with multiple subs doing 150+, every sub just fell apart.
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what does it take to get 150dB @ 25Hz?
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in General Audio
It's VERY audibly different, and in the competition world it can be the difference between 1st and 8th place. I was testing 128 dB @ 25 hz and still had more volume in it, that's just the reference volume I used for testing. I might have a 130 @ 25 hz in it, the room is 14 x 25 with 2 good sized openings into a foyer and kitchen. True, but i don't think you hold competitions at you're house And i don't think people use ears in competitions instead of SPL-meters. (even 0.2db can give you the first place or 3...) Well i don't think M5 was talking about sub 130dB levels.. more above 150..(but i don't know, i do know that if u get above 150 the difference is much more noticable then from 128 to 132. ) You'd think, but you'd be wrong. There is competition among friends. Also, there ARE competitions here, and elsewhere, where they use ears instead of a meter. I don't agree with it, and it's BS, and won't enter one, but they are around. As a matter of fact, a friend in Indiana went to a BIG show like that, that awarded $1500 to the winner, based on ear judge. Above 150 dB, it doesn't matter what freq you're at, your ear isn't accurate. It's my understanding your ear is doing the equivalent of clipping at that level. -
Yes, ideally you dont want a sub at the end of the port. I'd recommend putting both subs as close to the other side as possible.
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There is no "output module". If there is anything related to output, it's probably output transistors.
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what does it take to get 150dB @ 25Hz?
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in General Audio
It's VERY audibly different, and in the competition world it can be the difference between 1st and 8th place. I was testing 128 dB @ 25 hz and still had more volume in it, that's just the reference volume I used for testing. I might have a 130 @ 25 hz in it, the room is 14 x 25 with 2 good sized openings into a foyer and kitchen. Too bad it's not practical, or driveable, or legal for any competition, or built well enough to play for more than 5 seconds. -
I need an amp 5-6k at 2 ohm for daily
ibanender replied to Infinite913's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Maybe not necessarily last longer, but far less likely to die. Way more efficient that way too. -
what does it take to get 150dB @ 25Hz?
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in General Audio
You do know you're ears have a freqeuncy response? >< And you're ear's roll off at a quite low freqeuncy, about 29-30 or higher or lower, depends on the person. So still; if 25hz was louder, it could sound quietter then 6db's less on 50 hz. And most movies i watch, frequencies go below 20hz.(helicopter flying by...explosions...) You don't hear it because u don't have enough pressure at low freqs, or you're ears are not so good. Yeah, I know my ears do, thats why I got it close with RTA and tweaked by ear. My hearing falls off below 30 or so thanks to a system I had some time ago. But even knowing that, 25 hz was RETARDED louder. I still set my stuff up for 20 hz because others can hear it, when I can't at all. But in my check watching a few things, it never saw 20 hz. -
If your subs is in your rear deck, and it's free air, and you want to put a midbass driver in the rear deck, also free air.... that's a recipe for failure. At this point, I am running an aq hdc3 12 out of my trunk. The cvr, which is the only driver in the rear deck, would be my source of midbass. The reason I started this thread in the first place was to see if I could use the cvr as a midbass driver to save money. Depending on the output of the sub, you could actually kill the midbass driver. I had a few customers with Crown Vic's that kept killing 6x9's in the rear deck because the sub would push them beyond their limits. I also think you wouldn't hear it so well without it being in some variety of enclosure.
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It just means one will have more low-end output over the other, all size subs can usually plya the same frequencies as stated above. yeh i guess we did mix up terms and understanding lol...i meant to say that an 8 will have a harder time being loud in low freq compared to a 15 That must be why in the world of home audio, there are 4" speakers that play clean and linear down in the 40's. 8's don't have a harder time if the enclosure is right. On a retro note, back in the day a friend of mine had 18 RE8's that peaked 32 hz and did 153's on the headrest. Displacement (NOT cone area) is required to get more amplitude from a lower frequency in many conditions. So, it is very possible three 8's could have the same SPL at the same frequency as a single 15 if all drivers had similar stroke in a similarly tuned enclosure.
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Try it and let us know?
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Totally different woofers, yes, you can make that argument(still, not very often). But within the same woofer line you'll be hard pressed to find any situation where the 8" version will have better low-end extension than the 15" version. thank you. too many limitations for 8's to play low... Enlighten us on your reasons. well you stated that sub40s was low to you...to me thats not very low...so i guess it is a difference in preference limitations... spider diameter throw, xmax, sd... OK, now explain why you feel spider diameter, which is a direct relation to throw, which IS xmax makes it play low or not. Hell, explain Sd too. I'll warn you, you just said PA 18's don't play below 40 hz and this never happened
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Then I'd think you'd realize that's a bandpass if you've seen it.....
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I need an amp 5-6k at 2 ohm for daily
ibanender replied to Infinite913's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
ok its going to be a question but what kind of electrical do you think I would need to run it at .5? thnx for the help BASS! Smashed I was looking into stetsom I love the equip so thats def.. up there! I ran one at .33 with 3 batteries on a stock alternator (almost 200 amp) with little drop below 13. So you were getting 3000 watts out of it? Thnx Nem but did you see the price on that thing lol. I am better off buying a brand new amp from stetsom for that price LOL There is more to the purchase cost of a Stetsom. You have to figure in repair costs and shipping back and forth every time you blow it up. -
battery question
ibanender replied to chargeron4s's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
It would appear neither of the models he listed are on that PDF, outstanding. -
220A Iraggi load tested 74A :(
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Show me your proof and your alternator building experience, not just what you heard or read on the internet. ^^ reason right there why you will never catch me speaking on stuff i know nothing about. wish everyone else would do the same. And if they were fake parts, it wouldn't produce any power..... because they're simulated. -
If your subs is in your rear deck, and it's free air, and you want to put a midbass driver in the rear deck, also free air.... that's a recipe for failure.
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Composite sheets might work well too, never looked into it because of the cost.
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what does it take to get 150dB @ 25Hz?
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in General Audio
I remember Blaubox, I feel old. I use 1/24 Octave TrueRTA to do what you're doing. Everything you listed SOMETIMES goes below 30, and it's usually 25 or 28 when it does it. Well guess what, if you're tuned to 30 hz, you still hear it! Anything you're seeing at 20 hz is a harmonic you won't hear regardless. I recently decided to RTA my home theater because I had a few very apparent peaky spots I wanted to EQ out. 25 hz was 4 dB louder than 30 hz and I'd never thought that because a lot of stuff in movies didn't even go that low for me to notice. -
220A Iraggi load tested 74A :(
ibanender replied to kryptonitewhite's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I've seen a mixed response on those, but I have yet to be disappointed by them and several Team Sundown guys use them. The others use Mechman. -
Totally different woofers, yes, you can make that argument(still, not very often). But within the same woofer line you'll be hard pressed to find any situation where the 8" version will have better low-end extension than the 15" version. thank you. too many limitations for 8's to play low... Enlighten us on your reasons.
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Totally different woofers, yes, you can make that argument(still, not very often). But within the same woofer line you'll be hard pressed to find any situation where the 8" version will have better low-end extension than the 15" version. Very true. Another thing to consider is "low" is subjective. Traditionally in terms of audio, "playing low" is "bass" which is 1-100 hz. For me personally, sub 40 hz is "low". Some people think it's not low till it's in the 20's.