ibanender

And, thanks to a certain few douche bags on this forum that Mark and Aaron won't do anything about, or actually support, I won't be posting on this forum anymore. So, you can find the build in it's entirety and going forward, here http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11208&st=0

Deadening the trunk does nothing when you have 4 18's in a wall. Pretty much anything behind the B-pillar does nothing with a wall, if it's sealed off.

I own, manage, operate, and do all the work for 2 businesses I own.

Security system doesn't do anything when they take the whole car. The trunk will not be able to be opened without knowing the sequence to open it (a bit of trickery on my part) and you won't be able to get the subs out without plenty of time on your hands, in which you earned it. And a guard dog, shotgun, and an enclosed garage with a security on it, that calls the police when it goes off But still is a super nice Accord in my opinion! And in the case of my shop (still a work in progress), by the time you get TO the garage, you've already been on 5 cameras.

Security system doesn't do anything when they take the whole car. The trunk will not be able to be opened without knowing the sequence to open it (a bit of trickery on my part) and you won't be able to get the subs out without plenty of time on your hands, in which you earned it.

Steel coming next week, waiting on a time frame on wood.

Lol, that's a big step right there. A worthwhile step! That amp is way too much for those subs daily. I don't think there is enough space to do 4 8's properly either, at least not without humping the steering wheel. After displacements you're looking at 4 cu. ft., maybe more.

Looking like next week sometime, possibly early in the week, depends when my steel for the Accord gets here.

Can't believe you just said that... That would lead me to believe there is a lower impedance peak, not efficiency. You're talking about SYSTEM efficiency right? There appears to be less voltage drop at tuning (where my voltage dropped significantly), but I still had the same audible output. If it takes less power to make the same output, the driver is more efficient. NSv1 did not have a shorting ring, Zv3 does, that means less inductance. Inductance, to put it as simple is possible, is wasted power in terms of efficiency. My impedance may have gone up at tuning (less power output, less voltage drop) and my impedance possibly went down at higher frequencies (more power, greater output) as my response leveled out above tuning. It used to be kinda peaky at tuning, Zv3 is not, and collectively as loud as the peaky spot was with the NSv1. Again, outside of subjective sound quality observations, the rest is speculation.

Output wise, it's about the same as the NSv1, but it has a little better sound to it. Based on my voltage drop, it seems to be more efficient as well.

According to people who believe specs are the answer to everything, those variables don't matter. You get it. While you are correct, there are different aspects that may be an indicator as to how it may sound, you are also correct in that majority of manufactures do not publish this data. So, you have to go off of what IS available. All of those specs are commonly available to compare between drivers. Again, read the first post, it's quite simple. From the information provided, come to a conclusion, in any application you see fit as long as the application is equal between drivers. If you can not come to a conclusion for one reason or another, don't make excuses, DO NOT POST (this should also further my point that there are too many people on forums that post about things they don't understand or know about).

I have a little experiment I'd like to conduct. I don't wanna see any name calling, trash talking, or otherwise. I just want to see which you feel will sound better, not necessarily louder (but can comment on it) and WHY based solely on paper specs supplied by the manufacturer. I'm talking actual quality overall, what is the better sounding driver. They are all 12" subs. Here are your options, rank them in order best to worst: Option 1: RMS power: 500 watts Coil config: dual 4 ohm Sensitivity: 88 dB 1w/1m Fs: 33.6 Qts: 0.47 Vas: 3.119 cu. ft. Xmax: 10 mm Mounting depth: 6.73" Option 2: RMS power: 1000 watts Coil config: dual 4 Sensitivity: 96 dB 1w/1m Fs: 36 hz Qts: 0.76 Vas: 1.28 cu. ft. Xmax: 11 mm Mounting depth: 9.2" Option 3: RMS power: 350 watts Coil config: dual 4 Sensitivity: 87 dB 1w/1m Fs: 30 hz Qts: 0.45 Vas: 1.94 cu. ft. Xmax: 25 mm Mounting depth: 6.1" Option 4: RMS power: 300 watts Coil config: single 4 ohm Sensitivity: 86 dB Fs: 28 hz Qts: 0.67 Vas: 2.53 cu. ft. Xmax: 11 mm Mounting depth: 5.4"

It makes sense to not care how a speaker sounds in actuality rather than how the paper says it sounds.