BigDaddy13440
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Everything posted by BigDaddy13440
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Design Silverado - 2 Icon 10's Ported
BigDaddy13440 replied to Woodlawn Cabinetry's topic in Sound Solutions Audio (SSA®)
I'd think the same thing - twice the width for the center of the T. -
I did a box for a Beretta a few years back, I mocked it up with cardboard inside the car, one panel at a time, used every square inch I could get. Only problem was, I couldn't get it in through the back seat, or through the trunk opening. So, what I did was make the box in two pieces - I made the box, cut it dead in half, and made a 1x2 "flange" on the inside of each half. Put the first half in through the trunk, up against the back seat, then dropped the second half into the trunk. Crawled inside the box, and screwed the two halves together through the flanges (yes, I sealed it with silicone before joining the two halves). Netted me almost 8 cubes!
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help tuning port(s) in a clamshell
BigDaddy13440 replied to germandark's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
those look pretty friggin' cool to me! what are you planning on putting it in? I'm thinking of something similar using (2) 10's in a center console, with the port firing across the subs, maybe acoustically coupling the output of the front and back wave??? -
From: Elastomeric coating vs. 2 stage paint for inside of box
BigDaddy13440 posted a topic in Test 1, 2, 3...
I was thinking the same thing..... If anything, sand down the panels before assembling them, would cut down on the time sanding after it's put together? -
Elastomeric coating vs. 2 stage paint for inside of box
BigDaddy13440 replied to tahoexfixssd's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
I was thinking the same thing..... If anything, sand down the panels before assembling them, would cut down on the time sanding after it's put together? -
Would it be possible to use the maximum space behind the seats AND the hump, and do external ports under the seats? Have the ports fire forward towards your feet.....
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Excessive amperage or iraggi
BigDaddy13440 replied to rk772's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
So Jon.... what do you use? Woops - would help if I read the entire post..... -
Excessive amperage or iraggi
BigDaddy13440 replied to rk772's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Wow..... who knows of anybody else that would do that??? -
Excessive amperage or iraggi
BigDaddy13440 replied to rk772's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
So Jon.... what do you use? -
I like them, good use of your free time.
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Coax's? ummm......... ewwww! How about (2) sets of components per door, and a beefy midbass? At least an 8", maybe even a 10"????
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What song are you talking about? Limewire is my friend.....
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SSA DCON GIVEAWAY! 2 SUBS!
BigDaddy13440 replied to Mark LaFountain's topic in News, Announcements, and Lobby
1.) Must all ready own a amplifier with output between 250w-400w @ 2 ohm mono. Lightning Audio S4.500.1 2.) Must have Stereo installation experience. List your experience. Installed for Sound Factory in Rome, NY for 3 1/2 years. Have done over 150+ systems, including 10 or more that have competed in the Northeast. 3.) Must be an ACTIVE SSA MEMBER with >=75 posts. If I'm not at 75, better get posting!!!! 4.) Must do a pictorial or build log of system with in two weeks of receiving subs. No Problem - the 12's will retrofit into my current enclosures. 5.) Must do a medium length review with a decent array of music, listing sample tracks. Let me know what you like, I'll add it to my own list. 6.) Will post review + build log(pictures) on multiple sites - obviously! -
whoops - double post.
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check WalMart - bought a console for my wife's old minivan for under $30, had two cupholders, and a lockable storage area
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check WalMart - bought a console for my wife's old minivan for under $30, had two cupholders, and a lockable storage area
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I used to work for Lowe's, and they aren't responsible/required to get the cuts exactly correct. I think the policy is within 1/4". The best way to make sure the dimensions are correct (if you HAVE to have them cut it) is to have all the horizontal cuts (out of the 4x8 sheet) done first, then have the vertical cuts done approximately 1/4" over the size you need. Then, cut them to the exact length you need with your own saw and a guide. If you don't have one, invest in one, they are lifesavers if you need to make a straight tapered cut.
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I've got a 96 Chevy Tahoe, with (2) 10's in a center console firing downward. The bottom of the console is approximately 4 1/2" from the floor, leaving me a good 3" for an amp rack, in which I have (3) amps, a distribution block and a 1-farad cap mounted. The console follows the curvature of the dash (but about 3" from it, allows me to reach the accessory plugs), and extends to the back of the bucket seats. With the top at armrest height, I have about 2.0 cubes, plenty for the 10's. If I eliminated the two cupholders and the storage compartment on top, I'd gain about another .5-.6 cu ft, and probably another .6-.7 cubes if I followed the dash all the way up. It'd be plenty enough for (4) 8's in your Dodge, with the amps mounted under them.
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I've been playing with electrical panels for quite some time, just find your main and run a separate 50amp line off it to a Range/oven outlet. Get a plug for it, and connect the red and black wires to the terminal ends of the woofer. BTW, 50 amps of 220 should be run with 6ga, up to maximum of 50 ft. If you want to run 4ga, you can use a 100 amp breaker... what does that equal for wattage with a 4 ohm load? with a 2 ohm? what's the formula?
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help me choose what car to wall!
BigDaddy13440 replied to jonbearsmt's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
You wanna go wall?!? Remember when Alma Gates and her Bronco were at the top of the heap? The Ramcharger has similar dimensions.... AND it's all metal! I'm willing to bet you could do (8) 18's in a W-shaped wall right behind the front seats pretty easily....... -
I'm 6'7, about 265 now - at my heaviest, I was 310. I felt big, and didn't like the way I looked in most clothes. Wound up with a viral infection that affected my heart about 3 years ago, doc wanted me to get down to 250... Lost all the weight by cutting down on the soda, I mean waayyyy down. I didn't deprive myself of a Mountain Dew now and then, but one 20oz bottle every 3 days vs 4-5 each day helped a LOT. I also cut down on the chips and dips, and stopped eating any meals after 4 hrs before I intended to go to bed. Trying to get down to 250, but not by changing my lifestyle drastically - just cutting out the little things, the ones I really won't miss. Figure I can by May, easily.
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help me choose what car to wall!
BigDaddy13440 replied to jonbearsmt's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Which one will give you more usable space? I see the '01 is the L series, with the extra 6" in the rear - won't that equate to an extra 10 cubes or so over a standard model? I'd think you'd be able to put (4) 18's in there, as opposed to doing 15's in a standard model. If the '75 has a comparable amount of interior room, it's probably more solid (more metal) than the '01..... And why worry about the headliner replacement? Take it out, deaden the snot out of the roof (4-5 or more layers of mat), then make the top of the enclosure out of fiberglass, at least 1/2" thick, conforming to the roofline and back window. Hell, why not do the ENTIRE enclosure (except for the front baffle) out of 'glass? Maximize your space! Then just put the headliner for the front half of the roof back in? -
Before I yank my existing Celestion AD15H's, I'm going to try and change the porting, see if it cleans up the sound a bit. I think I'm getting excessive port turbulence, want to increase the diameter of the port to 4" from the existing 3". The specs for the AD15H's: Size : 15" Mag dia: 8.5" Mag Structure wt: 367oz Mag wt: 126oz Voice Coil: 4" dia Former: Kapton Coil winding length: .63" Magnet gap depth: .374" Coil: Copper Coil Section: Round Overall depth: 6.7" Weight: 28.48lbs Freq resp: 30-1K Max X-over Freq: 500Hz Sens (1W@1m): 96 Power handling: 1200 peak, 600 cont Nom Imp: 4 ohms Resonance (fs): 29Hz Resistance (Re): 2.8 ohms Piston dia (d): 12.99" Piston area (Sd): 132.53" Vas: 7.4 cu ft Total Dyn Mass (Mmt): 129gms Elect Q (Qes): .271 Mech Q (Qms): 5.890 Total Q (Qts): .260 Bl product (Bl): 16.34Tm Peak excursion: .157" (only 4mm!) Flux density (B): 1.33T Coil Inductanc @ 1kHz (Le): 1.6mH Recommended Alignments: 1.55 cu ft, 3" port x 11.46" long, tuned to 30Hz 2.12 cu ft, 3" port x 7.79" long, tuned to 30Hz My current enclosure(s) are approximately 2.25 cu ft, with a 3" port x 8" long. I'm looking to go with a 4" port (for less turbulence), but would like to know if a different tuning frequency would give me clearer, tighter bass for the specifications given. A 4" port tuned to 30Hz is 14.86" long (for 2.12cu ft), whereas a 32Hz port is 12.67", and a 34Hz port is 10.89" - big difference between 30Hz and 34Hz.
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I take it that those specs would indicate more output in the 40-50Hz range with the 42Hz tuning frequency? Won't the power handling on anything below 40Hz or so plummet like a rock? I'm guessing a subsonic filter set at 38-40Hz would be appropriate?
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Wide range, from Alter Bridge to ZZ Top, Metallica to Aerosmith. Not a lot of rap/hip-hop, but I do have some old 2Pac and Dre in the MP3 files. Have some old-school DJ Magic Mike too, but I might break that out maybe once every 3 months, just don't listen to that type of music anymore.