dave_Edwards

I also can make enclosures-----pretty good ones too---if I do say so myself.

TRY TURNING DOWN THE BASS EQ-----AND PHASING IS FOR ADDED TUNING.

well I think I have desided to keep my factory HU (so I can use the steering wheel controls) any thoughts on either piece? http://mobileaudiocontrol.com/product.asp?...249&l1=5249&l2= http://jlaudio.com/press/CleanSweep05.html I am kinda stumped on what to use----

the only thing that I am wondering now is if the PAC SWI-X will mess up the EVIC center in my steering wheel controls? I will take a pic later and show you.

there is a big debate on that if a aftermarket really is better----Richard Clark has proved that they arn't----it is somewhere over at carsound.com----- BTW where can i pick up a PAC SWI-X?

I just want a smooth, not over the top install---the factory HU is enough for me(I'm kinda simple I guess) I can get either unit easy----I am kinda leaning towards the LC6 just because it is more flexable.

any reason why you chose the audiocontrol---------not a JL bandwagon rider?lol

in MY neighborhood my Hemi powered Magnum gets alot of looks and my next door neighbor is always wanting to take it for a spin----I know they hate me----me and my wife are the youngest in the Neighborhood and we have 2 Brand new cars and a new house being built plus I am in rental property also.

1 Brahma 15 will be enough,I am a SQ guy---not really a SPL nut.

as for any mods----I not really the mod type guy----only audio----it has stock 18 inch alloys---which is good enough for me---I'm married, I don't need any more "girl getting" products---lol

I was going to get 22's---but desided against it---too flashy---not really my thing----and it doesn't need tine---the windows are dark enough for me---what other grill is out there?---the chrome one is nice enough for me-----I am kind of a simple man---just give me audio and I will be happy-----a lowering kit and AWD make no sence----and as for the systerm----read the sig---it will be nice----you can ask anyone here that.

I think the plates fit me also.

the audio is in the works----as of now---it is stock also

yes i do-----on the other side of the road from Exxon gas station on Roanoke Street.

with any ported enclosure the Xmax will be less---as is the power handling-----excurstion should have nothing to do with speaker wiring.

wow----i just found this-------thanks guys----i see who REALLY cares---lol----Jack Frost; you we should meet up somewhere sometime-----I work at Shelor's(Dodge and Chrysler)----come and see me sometime.

Many people don't realize that, unless you have virtually unlimited resources, there are going to be trade offs when designing a system. If you want a system to produce a lot of SPL (but have limited power or number of speakers), you'll probably have to concentrate a lot of the acoustic energy within a small band of frequencies. This would allow you to generate the desired SPL and properly impress your friends. It would, however, leave you with a system that would have less than perfect frequency response and marginal performance at the low frequency end of the spectrum. You could design a system that would produce the desired SPL at all frequencies but it would require significantly more power and speakers than the aforementioned system with the narrow peak. Manufacturers Recommendations: Many manufacturers recommend an enclosure that's going to give you a peak like we mentioned earlier. This will give you good results for rap or other bass heavy music. If you listen to those types of music, this system may perform satisfactorily. If you listen to all types of music, you'd likely want an enclosure that would give a flatter response. To get a flatter response, you could increase the size of the enclosure but the overall response wouldn't be perfectly flat. To build a system that had a perfectly flat frequency response (generally desired by audiophiles), you'll have to take the vehicle's transfer function into account (this will be discussed later). When a manufacturer recommends a particular enclosure, you should ask yourself (or, better yet, the manufacturer) what the enclosure is optimized for. Enclosure Types: When laying out a system, you need to decide what type of enclosure to use. No enclosure is magic. A sealed enclosure will be the smallest (for a given response shape) and will have good low frequency extension but may not have the best low frequency extension. If space is limited, this may be your best choice. A ported enclosure will generally have a better low frequency extension for a given response shape (alignment) but would require a larger enclosure. If you made the enclosure as small as the sealed enclosure but ported it to gain the low frequency response, the output would deviate from the desired flat response. A bandpass enclosure can sound good and give you a flat response but most of the generic bandpass enclosures are not designed for a flat response. They are designed to impress you in the stores. This means that they are built to produce a large peak at some frequency near 60hz. These enclosures will work well with something like rap music but generally won't sound good with other types of music. If you use a bandpass enclosure, it should be designed specifically for your speakers. a Free Air baffle,these are great for applications where trunk space is at a minimum and usually the easiest and least expensive way to add a subwoofer to most sedans. Not having to construct a box is an advantage, but many vehicles will require a new rear deck panel and/or vent to be constructed to accomodate even smaller woofers. These custom vents and panels could cost as much or more than a prefabricated or custom box. Infinite baffle set-ups require a woofer with a beefier suspension for high power handling and one with better cone damping. This set-up will be less efficient in reproducing the lowest frequencies as compared to other second order or higher enclosures. In any free air application, the back seat and surrounding panels should be removed to seal any possible areas where energy could be lost. It is crucial to separate (seal) the back wave of the loudspeaker (woofer) from the front wave of the loudspeaker. If not, bass cancellation will occur. This is also a good time to rid and deaden the trunk and surrounding areas of any unwanted noises and rattles. now for the most complex design, a Transmission Line (TL) is not like any of these other enclosure designs. The Transmission line is an old design, but as it turns out, is almost a perfect system. For example, the Bose Wave Radio uses a TL enclosure to produce its award winning sound. As the name implies, a transmission line is a long tube that expends from the back of the loudspeaker. By tapering the line, there is NO possible way in which sound can reflect back and forth and therefore standing waves and resonances common to standard speaker enclosures are eliminated. By eliminating back-wave reflections, the driver is also protected from having the back-wave re-radiate through the diaphragm, causing distortion and diaphragm breakup. The purpose of the transmission line is to eliminate the phase cancellation that would occur if the driver was in free air. Because of the length of the line, there is not enough time for air to travel through the line and cancel the front-wave. The magic of the system is what happens to the back-wave. The length of the line creates a tuned chamber much like an open ended pipe from a pipe organ. This causes a phase shift depending on the frequency and the length of the line. Through proper design, this causes the wave from the end of the TL to reinforce the front-wave at the frequencies where the front-wave begins to decrease due to increased air resistance at lower frequencies. Also, the tuned aspect of the TL strongly effects the fundamental resonance of the loudspeaker. It causes a very heavy dampening effect, which also helps to eliminate the overshoot and undershoot of the massive bass driver diaphragm. But this dampening is unlike the air spring of a sealed box and the diaphragm does not have to fight for motion. As a result, the efficiency is better than bass-reflex enclosures, the accuracy is better than acoustic suspension, and the frequency response and linearity is better than all systems. The line length is usually tuned to be 1/4 of the fundamental resonance of the driver loudspeaker. The TL can be folded, or in other words curved. If stuffed properly with damping material such as wool, the actual length can be decreased due to the resistive effect of the material on the air. The construction and design of a TL bass system may be more difficult, but the result is a dynamic driver than can truly complement an electrostatic loudspeaker. If you're building your first system, I'd recommend a sealed enclosure. It is the simplest enclosure and will be the easiest to get right. A sealed enclosure only needs to be the right size and well sealed. As you already know, for speakers (especially woofers) to work properly, they must be in the proper size enclosure. The manufacturer can give you the required enclosure volume but can't give the exact dimensions of an enclosure that will work in all vehicles. So that you can build an enclosure of the proper size for your vehicle. Magic number: OK... It's not magic but the number is 1728. If you forget it, just remember that the number is 12 inches * 12 inches * 12 inches. 12*12*12=1728. Square or Rectangular Enclosures: These boxes are the easiest to calculate the internal volume. You simply measure the height, width and depth (in inches), multiply them together and then divide that number by 1728. If the box has internal measurements of 6" high*18" wide*12" deep then the volume of the box is 1296/1728=.75 ft^3. Triangular boxes: The first type of triangular box has a right angle which will make the calculations a little easier. For a right triangle, you simply multiply the height by the depth by 1/2 of the base. Things to build your enlcosure with MDF Medium Density Fiberboard is a compressed type of 'wood product' It is similar to particle board but is much 'friendlier' to work with than is particle board. The wood cuts with less dust and leaves a good clean cut as is seen below. It also resists chipping when screwing close to the edge. You should still pre drill the screw holes when assembling a box with drywall screws because the wood will split if a screw is driven into the end of the board. Many people (myself included) use a pneumatic stapler and a good quality wood glue to assemble boxes. Some people use liquid nails type adhesives to seal the joints but the solvents in construction adhesives can soften the adhesives used on some speakers (which could lead to premature speaker failure if the speakers are installed before the adhesive has dried completely). You should also realize that the fumes are flammable (and may be explosive when contained). If you have a loose speaker connection on the speaker terminals, you may have a fire/explosion hazard if the speakers are played before the solvent has fully evaporated. Silicone adhesive has acetic acid which is released as the adhesive cures. This acid will corrode speaker baskets if the speakers are reinstalled before the silicone has completely cured. The best way to make sure the enclosure is sealed is to make good quality cuts. It will take less time to make good cuts than it will for the sealant to dry/cure (24 hours). Sealing around speaker: If the speaker has no gasket and the speaker box isn't covered in carpet or vinyl, You can use an open cell foam weather stripping around the cutout in the baffle. The weather stripping should be about 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide and 1/2 inch thick.You need to make sure that the area around the cutout is clean and dry so that the weather stripping will stick. I recommend wiping it down with solvent and allowing it to dry before applying the weather stripping. If you REALLY want it to stick, apply a single coat of contact cement to the area around the hole and allow it to dry for 10 minutes or until it no longer sticks to your fingers when you touch it. When applying the weather stripping to the coated area, you get only ONE chance to lay it down in the right place. As soon as the weather stripping touches the contact cement, it's not coming back up. Try them all, but remember that there is no MAGIC box that sounds the best, it is what are you goin to need from the enclosure/sub and what are you expecting. hope this clears up sub enclosures.

2005 Dodge Magnum RT AWD----stock----doesn't need anything

$44,000 was the price-----------I just looked at some of the pics I have---when I was younger---I was just holding the shell--------and I have a pic of me with a VLX400 shell too.

Nice write up----I myself am in stages of testing differant classes of amplifers and back EMF and impedence rise within the amplifer itself-----I am also trying to get a patent on one of my new ideas----will tell you when/if I get it. As for the write up-----you covered alot of questions anyone would have about the little known(and mostly understood----or not cared about) subject.-----Jeeesh I'm tired. B)

as for the Human Reign--- http://www.soundstream.com/sub/products_amps_human.html I played around with the first runs(1996) at a local car audio shop---they carried US amps/PG and SoundStream----I didn't know what I was really looking at but I remember the story behind it--------the designer actually just picked a guy off the street and gave him $500 for him to model his face--imagine that----some guy walking around could have been rich as hell if he knew what he was modeling------

2005 Doge MAgnum RT AWD PG MS1000 Adire Audio Brahma 15 RE 6.5 midbasses Alpine Tweets Custom made crossovers AudioControl EQX Eclipse CD8454 HU

ok.. my system was working great... i had this old deformed amp (classonic) and i connected it.. and conected my SW pre amp RCA from my headunit to it.. and it didnt work... then i took off the RCA's from it connectted it to my Amp that am generally using with my sub.. and it didnt work.. then i cutted the RCA's and i changed the polarity of the wires +ve with -Ve and vice versa .. and the AMP and subwoofer worked.. but when i changed the setting of the woofer in the HU to REVERSE.. i hear this POPPIN sound n the sub go above its X max for a sec. even when i tyurn the vol knob in the HU to 0 (ZERO) it makes that sound when it reaches ZERO? what could that possibly be ?? thanks for help.. my guess is that the DEFORMED AMP MESSED UP my HU pre AMp out puts... but why,,, and How ...? ok---first question I ask you is why did you cut the RCA's,reverse the polarity of them, THEN change the setting on the HU to Reverse? ----what you have is a power spike(signal not voltage)-----in other words the positive siganl is being forced through the negative RCA input and vice versa.-----check for damage to the sub----smell it if possiable---smell burnt metal(not good)----if all is good with the sub----rewire them the way you had them BEFORE you "Reversed" the HU and you should be fine. Hope this helps,

that is what I plan on doing with my next install----building a 3 way active crossover section.

Zapco amps and 1 Adire Parthonon---- -----or Brahma 15's-----RE XXX comps-----Alpine 300 HU-------just some suggestions.