dlink

I am trying to learn I really am! What have I screwed up this time? I want a system that sounds good at all volume levels. I want a 10" sub because I don't want to lose all that much storage space, I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right but then I found that sealed is better for SQ, and I am going with the IDX to better blend, so sealed would actualyl be "right" for me http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html for example. Please tell me what else I am missing and I will do my best to google the info or better explain myself. IM me. add a "wit27" to the end and there is my AIM name and I will gladly talk in real time to whoever is willing to in order to better smooth out this debacle of a build attempt. And I thought Abstract Algebra and Discrete Mathematics was hard... (actually discrete was pretty easy, and Abstract wasn't bad, but you get the idea ) Simple enough neh?

Ok, going the 4 and 2 route, I haven't done much research beyond pricing, but here are some options. The greener, the cheaper. Bold are within 5% of the cost of the PDX-5 (360). Bold & Italic are those that are less than the PDX-5. Excel is my bitch

2 ohm, which I assumed was ok. From the Alpine site: From what I read, lower ohm => harder tod rive, so if it can do 2, it can easily do the L6 and L1 at 4 an 8 respectively

99.% Sure this is final. Will be running active Front State: HAT L6 + HAT L1 Sub: M5 IXL 10" (ported) Amp: Alpine PDX-5 Damp: Second Skin HU: Alpine CDA-9887

SPL Board: http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?act=idx

coolio

So you think a M5 IXL would work fine on 367 RMS? If so I'll go that way and save a benjamin

And considering that 600W is in the zone marked in red in the manual, why would you want it to? What it can "handle" is different than what's optimal. Yea, I screwed that reading up. Realized it too late to edit. 367 pretty close to 400, which is right at the top of optimum, so we might be looking at my setup. HAT L6 + HAT L1 + JL 10w6 + Alpine PDX-5

Right now the M5 IXL 10 looks real appealing, the only problem is that it needs power, so I'd have to get it its own amp. The 10w6 would still be cheaper in the long run. Before shipping I'm looking at the following combos and prices. The Fi Q would give me the same issues. I failed to notice it would take 1000w rms JL w6 275 PDX-5 360 635 m5 IXL 165 PDX 4.100 289 MRMP-M1000 250 704 m5 IXL 165 PDX 4.150 375 MRMP-M1000 250 790

Kicker zx700.5 looks like a good one too. Except that it says it is a class D. I know most mono are D for the sub, but I can't tell if the front four are D also, or AB. /edit Either way, it's 20+ inches long, so won't easily fit under the seat.

Jerk I like the price tag on the IXL

I might, I've just heard such great things about the w6, and not all that much at all on the Q, or any Fi for that matter

apparently :-/ well, on to amp. Most likely going w6 for sub

im using an alpine pdx 5 and it puts out lots of clean power, and it hardly takes up space, but it gets hot,. i paid 600 for mine, way to much, but thats the only one i could get, then a week or two later, bam the store on here throws up some of the pdx 5's for $369 How hot, and after how long? And hypothetically So that would be enough for L1 Pmax : 100w (8 ohm) Pnom: 7w L6 Pmax : 250w (4 ohm) Pnom: 60w w610: Pmax: 600w (dual 4 ohm) Poptimum: 300-400 ? The reason I ask is because the JL site has the following image Which says to me that the optimum wattage is around 300, which means the PDX will be putting out its max wattage for that channel on a continuous basis. Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that. This would explain the heat issue, but can this reduce the lifespan of the amp? /edit the JL Org Slash is even weaker PA1100.5

I got offered a trade of the following: Opinions? I'll search in the morning. I'm a bit tipsy atm

No, because I am an idiot and read another thread wrong and until about 10 seconds ago thought the W6 was the SPL sub. :-/ I thought the w7 was the SQ, which is why I was so interested in it. /slaps head. I have also heard good things about the RE SE. And I can get a 10SE for ~130 on ebay. Half of what the Q and w6 cost. ikesound has the SE12 for 99$ !! Consider it dropped. I have no spine

Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers. I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

when he hits it at 1:09?

Do I need a 4 channel? I figured with the L6 midrange/midbass in the kickpanel and the L1 tweets, I would only need a 2 channel. Trying to stay around 200 US$ as I'll need another for my sub. I looked at the Sundown SAX 100.2, but a tad out of my price range at the moment at 219 US$. Unless there is a consensus that I can't beat the quality of a 100.2 at 219, then I might consider it. The RF T400-2 looked interesting also. Rockford is a name that comes up a lot, so it can't be all bad, also I can get one on ebay pretty easily. /edit For what it is worth, HU is Alpine CDA-9887

How could you tell? The quality of the vid is so bad

man it is impossible to find a Fi anywhere but their own site. They aer harder to find than HAT

but its a thumb. thought it was supposed to link somewhere

denim your vid is broke but don't worry, here is a clip where they put two jackhammers in a breadtruck :0 http://www.clipser.com/watch_video/90577

I have an 07 Yaris Hatchback and I am most likely going to put a 10" sub in the back. I am thinking 10w7, but maybe a w6 or something slightly less expensive. How should I deaden my hatch, if at all? Could someone shade the pic where I should put deadning material? I know ideally I would do it all over, but I'm trying to limit how much of my car gets torn apart The front doors will already be deadened.

well I guess I know what I'll be doing in December How long does an install usually take? I wonder if I could knock it out over thanksgiving break.... meh, not the point of this part of the board, sorry. I'll search around