antonmiller

no one has any tricks for getting louder in a jeep?

IIRC I gained .2 db from resining my box.... lol, not much but hey who knows it could be instlal to install based.

Effects on sound from fiberglassing an enclosure? - SSA Car Audio Forum heres some info

forgot to ask, but is this a good number for this type of system? 3 18" subs on 13 kwrms? its not tuned yet or anything. any tips or trick to get it louder?

this was on music (a song that kept saying ricky bobby) this was a 35 hz tone a vid showing the whole install him having fun at a local shop where the owner didnt want to stay in the car. lol

when you hooked it up to your friends amp did you use your car or his car? and if you can try to hook up a different sub to the amp and see if it works that might help to narrow down the issue. and check the sub with the DMM like stated before, see what the ohm load is on each coil. dont forget to post any results.

so we built the enclosure and all. just like this: this is the best pic i can find of the box fitting it into the car, its completely dont now and istalled into his jeep. so initial results were amazing!it was tough to get the 3 subs to hit at the same rate since one was closer to the port compared to the other 2. and he used some weird way of running the rca's. we could use some suggestions on that if possible, he has 3 amps and we arent sure if you can get a 3 way splitter to connect the amps. so he did a 152.2 outlaw mic on dash legal position on a 35 hz tone. i think thats amazing. we didn't have enough time to adjust everything and try to get a higher score with a higher frequency. but i mean about 20 minutes after install hitting a 152.2 is just amazing(to me anyways). especially doing the port up subs up. i was shocked, he was extremely happy. some more stats was one music he hit a 151.X (cant remember) at 32 hz outlaw. and legal sealed up he did a 151.x (cant remember) on a 35 hz tone. all these number were done with a term-lab. so, do you think its impressive at all? is that a good number for 3 18"s in a No wall application on 3 AQ3500's? let me know. i know it sucks i have no pics of anything. but we have a show on next Saturday so we will have plenty of vids and pics from it.

why not post up outlaw scores man? im curious...

And now, see the amazing Adrian D go for 160!!! now he turns on the car and opens a window! lol

145 outlaw on music with one of these 12"s..... so you can do the math from there. and agian its case to case what kind of DEEBEES your gunna hit. all in the install.

so i went to put the sub in the box i made for it and it didnt fit in the hole. lol. so i got to sanding the hole out (left my jigsaw at a buddies house) and i soon realize that after about 45 min of sandin the hole out that if i take the rubber boot off it will go in the hole. and the sub basket must be smaller than the magnet itself cause after getting it in the hole there is alot of play. so one of my question is can i put the sub in without the rubber cover? logic says yes, but i dont know if there is a function to the boot or not. and how do people hook up the terminals? lol. seeing as the magnet is the same size as the hole i have for it how do you get your hands down to get the wire and hook it up? i might have to mount a little terminal plate on the back of the box to get my hand in there to hook it up. but for now without another way to access the sub from behind or the side how do you do it? thanks,

Hi all, i know that 1/4-20 will work, but will 5/16-18 bolts work? i will be using tee nuts and bolts to hold the sub in. the sub is the Fi Car audio BTL 12". basically just want the biggest bolt that will work. im sure there are plenty of people out there that can measure the mounting hole size and the rubber seal c'bore size. I just want to get the stuff on order and installe din the boxes before the sub gets here so its a quick intall. also i would assume the 18"s have the same sized mounting holes and c'bore in the rubber seal? Thanks in advanced, Anton Miller

i dont like those because you have to bottom them out in a blind hole so they dont spin or push out. i like the t-nuts alot better because once you pound it in (straight) it wont spins and when you tighten the bolt down it draws the flange into the back side of the wood. its just preference though.

So i got my bolts and tee nuts today, and i go to test fit them into the sub and to my shock the bolt doesnt fit in the hole on the basket! now i dont know if this is a common problem or not. but im just not sure how to handle this as i dont want to buy new bolts. I also bought extra bolts and nuts for my buddies 3 18" BTL's will this be the same problem? I guess i should say the bolts are 1/4-20 Socket Head cap screws. i know i could drill the hole out. and it is what im going to do, but i guess im just wondering if anyone else ran into this issue? I will post pics in a minute, i just wanted to get this on here soon as i wish to install this today or tomorrow. kinda frustrated... oh i guess i should reference wher ei heard to get this size bolts: BTL on order, What size bolts? - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 2

hell yea! what frequency was it at? the box tuning i mean...

aluminum threaded rod and aluminum nuts will create very nice terminals. im horrible at explaining things so maybe someone who is good at it can chime in.

yea i finally got it in and all is good. lol. but its gunna be a nightmare getting it out. haha, oh well like you say thats what i get. haha.

prefab box = horrible numbers in my book. i saw 2 12" type r's not even break a 140 on the tl. IIRC it was 136. so yea prefab isnt good. lol.

nope, baffle is 1.5" thick. and the biggest issue is getting the magnet in and out! i mean the magnet is so damn big that i cant really got that big with the hole. the magnet has to be about an 1/8" bigger per side so a total of .25 on the diameter compared to the basket. thats huge! on there website it says the sub cutout hole should be 11.125 but that cant be right. cause i built it to that maybe even a little bigger and i still had to sand it down. IDK, i can get the sub in now, but its very difficult to get it out. the magnet gets cocked any you need to push it back in then come out as straight as possible. IDK maybe im just ranting and little frustrated from a day wasted trying to get the damn thing to fit into the box i already made.

ok, well i went ahead and drilled out the holes, if i would even call it drilling them out. i dont even know if i took and aluminum off or not. my guess is there was some glue in each hole that prohibited the bolt from going through. but i drilled the out and this is how i did it: thanks for the advice on making sure you cover everything up, i didnt even think of that.

welcome sir!!! im also in mn. im in inver grove heights where are you at?

I think im going to try it, im going to buy a 1/4" steel bit and see what will happen on one hole only. but i dont think removing .010" of material will make a difference will it?

pics. just curious if anyone else has had this issue? i will drill it out. any suggestions on type of drill to drill it? it is just an aluminum basket right? i know these are bad pics. But im not sure how you show that something doesnt fit. lol. i can tell its close to going through. just doesnt wanna go. this one was just for a good pic of this thing. lol

LOL, the 2 12" BL's in proper enclosure will make you shit yourslef compared to the Kicker. hahahahaa...