antonmiller

i dont see why it isnt possible, i was hitting a 145.3 with 1 12" bl on 900 watts clamped @ 42 hz out da trunk of the cavalier... now that bl is doing a 145.8 out the trunk of a civic in a burp box on 1100 clamped watts @ 52hz, so technically if you double cone area and double power, why wouldnt it be possible? also i agree pics are in order, but i do believe you.

it could be due to the heat, cause when its cold out, my charging system does a much better job of keeping up with the system. ive also noticed a loss from heat, up to .7, not 2 db LOL

i think im goinf to start fiberglassing on sunday after a show in southdakota. lol 5 hour drive back saturday night then wake up and smell the resin! ill be posting pics as i go. no gaurentees it will look remotely good. lol

way bigger box, lots of port area and tune to your vehicals peak. i also find it wierd that your doing a 133 inside the car and a 127 outside the car... i do a 147 inside and a 131 outside, thats a 16 db loss and your only losing 6? lol, but good luck.

starting to try and build my very first flared port, 8" ID sono tube (verified at the store, 8" ID) some foam stuff foil tape for a base, this is just the mold so far, going to fiberglass over this we will see how it turns out. i also found butyl rubber on a roll for around 17$ not very thick, but will do an amazing job at sealing things off! so if you have any pointer at making the flared port, please do share! Thanks

should have gone out and bought a thin 1/8" board and cut it to fit the baffle and such then wrapped that, would look much better than the staples in the port. i cant wait to see the vids!

CLD tiles are sitting in my living room from him and they look amazing, i just was wondering about blocking road noise. and not wanting ot break the bank doing so. so basically i was wondering what makes the barrier good?

im trying to get a quieter ride and control panel resonance. just want to coat the trunk with it basically and the floor of the car

any one atleast know what makes the sound barrier good?

You know, Anton, I've never thought about using it in that application. I think if it were part of a custom made 3 way system and used more as a "midbass" than a "midrange" it would be acceptable, but not in a two way. It just really isn't well suited for a two way system. so if i bought a sundown 2 channel amp and went with a passive 2 way speaker set up but used the 8" sub for the "woofer" part of the amp and used the 2 way passive system for the "highs" would it do ok? not sur eif im explaining this good enough... it would be like going active, just with a single 8" subs by itself playing from about 60 hz to say 200 hz and the 2 way passive picks it up from there. IDk, i think outside the box with things, feel free to be brutally honest with me! lol Yeah, that would be do-able. The real question is, do you have room? Mounting depth and enclosure volume would be a concern. Honestly, you could run it lower that 60 though, unless you are worried about canceling your woofers out. Let me play around some in the morning and try to simulate what you are doing. I like to sell woofers, but I don't want to lead you in the wrong direction. What component set would this be coupled to? I think I misread your post. I think you'd be much better off with a 4 channel amplifier. If I feel comfortable with this set up I can build you a separate outboard crossover if need be. Of course, you'd have to pay for that seperately, but I'd just charge parts and minimal labor. Let me kick this around overnight/tomorrow morning. Thanks! right now i have these Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver): Electronics they are a 6.5" woofer with a 1 inch tweeter, just need more midbass i guess, i havent put these on an amp or anything, but ill be buying a sundown 2 channel in the next few weeks and like i said i like to think outside the box. lol no, i dont have any rears, just fronts. this is why i was opting for the 2 channel, cheaper and really is all i need. the sundown amps IIRC are set up for an active setup. but i may be wrong...

You know, Anton, I've never thought about using it in that application. I think if it were part of a custom made 3 way system and used more as a "midbass" than a "midrange" it would be acceptable, but not in a two way. It just really isn't well suited for a two way system. so if i bought a sundown 2 channel amp and went with a passive 2 way speaker set up but used the 8" sub for the "woofer" part of the amp and used the 2 way passive system for the "highs" would it do ok? not sur eif im explaining this good enough... it would be like going active, just with a single 8" subs by itself playing from about 60 hz to say 200 hz and the 2 way passive picks it up from there. IDk, i think outside the box with things, feel free to be brutally honest with me! lol Yeah, that would be do-able. The real question is, do you have room? Mounting depth and enclosure volume would be a concern. Honestly, you could run it lower that 60 though, unless you are worried about canceling your woofers out. Let me play around some in the morning and try to simulate what you are doing. I like to sell woofers, but I don't want to lead you in the wrong direction. What component set would this be coupled to? right now i have these Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver): Electronics they are a 6.5" woofer with a 1 inch tweeter, just need more midbass i guess, i havent put these on an amp or anything, but ill be buying a sundown 2 channel in the next few weeks and like i said i like to think outside the box. lol

You know, Anton, I've never thought about using it in that application. I think if it were part of a custom made 3 way system and used more as a "midbass" than a "midrange" it would be acceptable, but not in a two way. It just really isn't well suited for a two way system. so if i bought a sundown 2 channel amp and went with a passive 2 way speaker set up but used the 8" sub for the "woofer" part of the amp and used the 2 way passive system for the "highs" would it do ok? not sur eif im explaining this good enough... it would be like going active, just with a single 8" subs by itself playing from about 60 hz to say 200 hz and the 2 way passive picks it up from there. IDk, i think outside the box with things, feel free to be brutally honest with me! lol

HOw about the 8" Sub, Will it do good for a mid range woofer? if say i built a kick panel box for each side?

glad you found the site alright! good luck with the build and we always love pics and videos!

thanks man. my best score so far is a 147.5 on 1917 watts clamped @ 34 hz. i recently bought 2 6 inch aeros and will be building a 3 cubic foot box tuned to 50 hz here shortly. hopfully that gets me close to the 50 mark. and the best part about this design is that if i block off one of the 6 inch aeros it tuned the box to 34 hz again for daily! its just crazy how it works out!

damn impressive with a 10! thats all i have to add...

just reset the oscope, you accidentally hit some button, i do it all the time, i just hit the reset on the back and it works good again. lol

I Live in Maple Grove, Work all over the Twin Cities area. Glad to see there are some Minnesota Faithfull holding it down! Are there any clubs etc.... that any of you from MN are members of or might suggest? actually yes, join here: Minnesota's Loudest: Bringing Together Minnesota's Bass Heads :: Home

LoL, going from the rockford 1500 to this amp i gained a total of 1.7 db outlaw (mw spl) and 2 db car off (db drag), so far...

What does the saz-3000 bass knob control and how does it control it? Is it gain or boost? does it override the amps settings or does it max out at them? BTW great amp, My car on score is only .6 db louder compared to the car off!!! I was amazed by this, helps alot for db drag

Ill get that tonight. but its ALOT, lol if oyu look at my avatar pic its about 1.5 times that.

The title says it all. basically im wondering how loose the suspension should get because im pushing this thing pretty damn hard. and im just not sure if its normal to loosen up this quickly. i just put my saz-3000 in the other day and before that it was on my rockford t1500. lets just say the saz is giving it a work out. the first day i put it in and got it o scoped so no clipping occurs, the dust cap was getting fairly warm (almost hot), but now about 2 days after putting the saz-3000 in i can play 35 hz tones at 0 db for a good period of time (burping for 10 seconds then turning down, then repeat the process for about 5 minutes) and the cone barely gets warm.... im just wondering if im hitting mechanical limits and not thermal limits. i know its box to box differences. SO how loose should the suspension get?