antonmiller

well we built a wall, the amp is currently fairly far away form the subs, about 6 feet of speaker wire goes to each sub, we are currently using cheap 14 gauge speaker wire LOL, but we are pulling a 152.7@1800 watts clamped, my guess is we would gain quite a bit by changing out speaker wire, what would you guys recomend? there are 4 dd 1500 series 12" subs hooked up to a planet audio 3000 wired to half ohm in a wall. looking for the best speaker wire that will transfer the power most effectivly for the long 6 ft run. thanks, Anton Miller

Bump for the St. joseph Competition saturday (8/21) at Sound Connection. Very close to st. cloud mn. hope to see you there!

why wouldnt it gain? there ahs to be power loss on a distance that far, more actual power to the subs should gain. anything other than the knuconcepts wire out there that is good wire? is strand count very important for speaker wire?

ok, what should i look for in quality speaker wire? is oxygen free needed? like what is in your guys mind the best speaker wire you can buy?

the thing is im not worried about what i need, im worried about how to effectivly transfer ALL the power from the amp, like i said where peaking our score at 1800 watts clamped, we have 2000 watts clamped that we can have for our class, 200 watts might be worth a few tenths lol, but i want to be able to transfer all that power thats coming outta the amp. i would go ahead and assume im losing atleast 200 watts using the 14 gauge wire for 6 ft

can i get some more explantion on this?? maybe a picture as to what you are referring to?

um.... yea, will it perform on 2000 watts? if so ill take one 12 please

ive always tuned to 34 hz, love the sound of it.

I like to use my own rule of thumb that the port should be atleast the width of the port away from any surface so that way that surface doesnt act as an extension of the port. some people say you can use half the port width, but i like to say the full width. and i could be wrong, this is just from my limited experience is the port further away from the surface to allow it to breath seems to be better, on the meter anyways.

post a youtube video for help....

most likely wont make a difference unless the port is firing directly into it. ive sealed mine in my cavalier and it didnt gain, didnt lose either. so i just unsealed them.

Bump for the St. joseph Competition saturday (6/26) at Sound Connection. Very close to st. cloud mn. hope to see you there!

im going to rewrite this some day. but this is a better one i think that i did a while ago. this is a how to design a box "if your doing a box that is 5 cubes you take 16 x 5 which equals your port area. then you figure out how tall you want it to be. then you figure out the port height. i would say your going to want the box to be 17" tall then you minus the double baffle and the bottom plate. so 17-2.25 which equals 14.75 then you divide that by your port area. so (16 x 5)/14.75= 5.423728 so lets say your port will be 5.5 by 14.75. (this is for a sub up port back driver side box) then you type that into this calculator PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES (bottom half) so you type in 5 cubes square port, what you want your tuning to be say like 35 hz, make sure to check the slot port yes thing. then it gives you the number. so your port will be 14.75 tall by 5.5" wide by 25.5 long. ok you have your tuning done. now you just add your total port displacment with your sub displacment and then add the interior volume you want. so... 5+.15(sub displacement)+ [(14.75x6.25x25.5)/1728)]=6.50 cubes total interior. (rounded) you do the 6.25 wide because you need to incorperate the piece of wood that runs along side of it. so you then take your 6.5 x 1728 (1ft^3=1728^3in) and you get 11232 then divide by 14.75 because thats how tall your box will be on the inside, so you get 761.5 ish then you just decide how wide you want it or how deep you want it. dont forget this is internal volume. you need to accommodat the .75 wall thickness on each side of the box to fit where you want it to fit. so if you want the box to be 42 total outside then you minus 1.5 from that and then divide by that number. so say thats what you want the box to be width wise, divide 761.49/40.5=18.8 so your total interior dims are 14.75 tall by 40.5 wide by 18.8 deep. check all your math and times them numbers together and see how you came out. so 14.75x40.5x18.8=11230.65 then divide by 1728 and you get 6.4992187 very close to what you wanted! this is a good thing! now if you think you need bracing just go and get some 1"dia round wooden dowels and put one or two in there. also put corner pieces in the corners. dont need it but it helps. yes these do remove some volume. but not enough to change the tuning too much. now you build and enjoy the sweet sweet sound and poundage!" I did this a while back for a kid to explain how to calculate a standard simple L-port box. hope it helps. it was for 1 15" aq hdc3.

I am a member on all the "main" Car audio sites and SSA is the site i tell people to go to when they want to learn about car audio! Here you post a question you get an answer, other sites you get bashed for even asking a question...

1 12" BTL is plenty, and like stated above what dont you like about the BTL?

LOL, yea but like where behind it? will it matter if its 2 inches back or 10 inches back? Is it worth testing these things?

Vehicle: 93 Passat Subwoofers: 4 12" DD1500 Series Amplifiers: Unknown, 2000 watts max clamped class Now my initial thought form what ive seeen is a 10 cube box tuned to around 34 for daily and w/e the vehical likes for spl subs clustered up by passenger head rest, port drivers side. other than that im not sure what else to ry when building a wall... So if you have a wall or know of some good pointers please let me know! NOw for a few quesitons: 45° corner pieces or reverse rounds? 2x4"s around the box for supports or just double layer everything? does the location of the baffle matter that much? as in how far away it is from the b-pillar? and how would you find the best spot? port direction and location? sub firing location? and any additional info, please keep it to pointers and such, try not to design the box for me as i would like to do that myself, just little hints and tricks as to help with the construction and layout of the wall. Thanks, Anton Miller

Hi All, Now at my job i search McMaster-Carr very frequently. and today i decided "hey lets see what they have for sound stuff" (cause they have EVERYTHING! lol) so i did a quick search for "Sound" and found they have some nice sound barrier material and some nice sound dampening stuff, looks just like the Sound Deadener Showdown Stuff just thicker and with a backing ( http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi ) any ways i was just wondering if the stuff on mcmaster-carr is good sound barrier or good sound dampening? Links Below: McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr

ok, whats about the location of the baffel? does that effect anything?

going to start building tomorrow any pointers would be great. thanks

LOL I was thinking the same thing.

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i left just under 1/32" of "paper" left when kerfing mine. IIRC 3/8" spacing, 14 cuts to achieve 2.5" radius with plenty of room for resin behind it.

Hi All, Here is what ive learned form messing around with my Term-Lab and my Daily tuned box (2.5 cuft with 41 sq of port tuned to 34 hz wave guides and double kerfed port). i have learned that the box is loudest firing towards the drivers side of the trunk completely sideways like this: Im hitting a 146.7 outlaw doing this at 36 hz. Ive also tried flipping the box upside down and the port and sub position flipped and it doesnt matter on the meter which way it goes. now im thinking a 40-42 hz tune with aero ports, possibly 2 6" ones. now i want to hit a 150 with this outlaw, i believe it would be simple if i tuned the box higher and get some more control over the higher bass notes. also the number was with stock electrical one battery, in the end (very soon) i will have a 320 DC power alt and a yellow top up front and a kinetic 1800 in the back, im not sure but i may try to get the kinetic up fornt and put a 2400 in the back. but for right now the yellow top up frontwith the kinetic in the back is the plan. So in the end, I wish for some help on how to accomplish my goal of the 150, i am willing to test almost anything that doesnt require me destroying my car or building more than 2 more boxes. one more thought, could i just add 2 x 4s to the box that i have now to increase tuning? like if i brought the box volume to about 2 cuft it would change the tuning to 38 hz (did the math). what would be effected by this? would i have more power handleing? would it decrease the efficiency of the power i throw at the sub (this is very important as in the class i will be running i can only use 2000 wrms of clamped power)? so SPL guru's, What would you do?