antonmiller

how long do we have to wait? lol if you need some one to do some testing ill take 2 12"s D2

k, if firing back, make the box as wide as possible and as short as possible, put a nice big round on the top edge of the box, remove the spare tire cover and all the spare tire stuff (as the box will be on it anyways cant get to it, plus it gains half db ) make the box so it is 6-8 inches from the trunk lid. thats all i got really for this, if you want lows, tune to 32-34 hz with a kerf.

whats the car?

well, so far 143.2 @ 32 hz on like 900 watts (kicker 1200) with one 15" sundown Zv2, its an 01 towncar. found a trick that gains in the upper of 1.5 db when metering door open meter on dash. ill get pics after work.

idk cause its not mine, just gunna help this guy out, and im gunna explore all options. building the box this weekend, trunk is f'n huge!!

planns fell through (help never showed up) we are going to try it, but not sure when, finals is over, and upgrading all equiptment to really bring it next year, ill keep this updated when i try it out.

so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure what to think about it, but im going to try it and see what happens, just was wondering if anyone has heard of this, has any pointers to trying this method out? let me know! Thanks, Anton Miller

what year? idk, looks like yours in your avatar

trunks can get loud, just gotta know how to work them, ive got my hands on a town car now, gunna be building it up and ill see what kinda tricks i can find to get the most out of it.

well, i got some more info out of him, he said he used a single layer of 1" mdf and angle iron to attach it to the box, leaving about 2 5/8" on each side of the box, it was attached to the top and bottom of the box. also it was at a slight angle. im trying to get more out of him, like what the size of his box and port was and so one, to see if there is a corelation between gap size and port size or box size. but im going to try this out next week some time (quickest time i can get back tot hte car to work on it) ill let you guys know what it effects and how it effects it.

its strong, like chuck norris approved strong lol but the thing is if i tune higher it loses huge, i havent tuned lower, but its tuned to around 34 hz peaking at 46 hz. i cant wire lower, and the signal is fairly clean, but we have a total of 2060 watts clamped that we can use for this class. this rear loading wall is fairly hard ot explain im going to have him draw it up and send me a picture of it. caus eim not sure exactly what he was talking about. any more tips for gaining? we tried a huge 45 behind the subs and it lost us .8 havent tried smaller yet... tried them in the port corner, but it didnt hurt or gain. kind out of ideas on gaining...

do you do trade ins? i have a saz-3000 (new heat sink, great condition!) and want either 2 1500's or 2 2000's please let me know, this would obviously be trade plus cash lol thanks, Anton Miller

9 cubes is the biggest ive seen in a cavalier trunk.

cant, i have a power restriction for my class...

did some testing with an sa-12 yesterday, and i was amazed at what these little "entry level" subs can do. on with the testing: Car: 1997 Chevy Cavalier z24 w/sunroof Electrical: stock alt, yellow top up front, kinetic 1800 in back, 2/0 welding cable all around Amplifier: One SAZ-3000 Enclosure: 2.7 cube box sub back 6inch aero port firing toward driver side wheel well. Subwoofer: One Sa-12 all testing done using the midwest spl format, meter on dash with window open, my car typically loses.4-.5 by sealing it up. also the subwoofer was brand new out of the box when i started these tests, i did the tests in the order they are listed. back to back about 2 minutes between burps. testing results: 144.8 db @ 42hz on 550 watts 146.1 db @ 42 hz on 906 watts 147.3 db @ 42 hz on 1550 watts 147.2 db @ 42 hz on 1760 watts 146.0 @ thug motivation song on 1360 watts subwoofer must have peaked out at around 1500 watts in this enclosure, but im very impressed with this as the best my BTL can do on 1900 watts was a 148.3 officially this same day. sorry no pics or videos, i was with a shop owner trying to get him to pick up sundown in his shop. might have convinced him its a very nice product! i will try to get some pics of the TL readout as well as some videos tomorrow or tuesday. Thanks for your time, Anton Miller

sa subwoofers are taking over the world!!! nice job guys!!

4.5-4.7 with one 6" aero just flares How wide is it? and you slid that through the opening behind the rear seat right? sorry for the questions, i've got a cavalier also and im just trying to figure out how big of a box i can get back there. you can get a box that is 31-32 wide, 28-28.5 deep and 14.5 tall pretty much maxed out, this slides through the trunk! remember mine is a 2 door, not sure if the trunk is different or not. mine is also i 2 door so the trunks should be the same. and are the dimensions you said the largest you can go to fit it through the trunk? because im trying to put a 15 in there so 14.5 inches wouldnt work out to well lol..but if i were to build the box inside the trunk i would be able to go taller right? maybe i should go take some measurements sometime lol. in order ot get a 15" in there (with correct airspace) you would need to go through the back seat, iirc the max height is like 16.5" and the width is around 20" and the depth would be about 30-30.5" if slid through back seat, this would require the removal of the rear seat pad plus the plastic pieces behind the seat, and very possibly you may have to take off the rear folding portion of the seat. but if you go 30" deep you may not be able to turn the box to an orientation you would like, if your looking for max of the max, as in building in the trunk, ive seen an 18" in the trunk a cavy, he got 9 cubes out of the trunk. and that was maxing it out... so i man you got like 18.5" by 36" by about 31 inches if you really wanted to max it out...

4.5-4.7 with one 6" aero just flares How wide is it? and you slid that through the opening behind the rear seat right? sorry for the questions, i've got a cavalier also and im just trying to figure out how big of a box i can get back there. you can get a box that is 31-32 wide, 28-28.5 deep and 14.5 tall pretty much maxed out, this slides through the trunk! remember mine is a 2 door, not sure if the trunk is different or not.

4.5-4.7 with one 6" aero just flares

SA-12's PLUS SAZ-3000 @ HALF OHM EQUALS 149.6 DB @ 41 HZ well its still gaining...

sounds like you need to charge the battery....

X2!!! BUT i use Calculator as well

its all install dependant, but in all honesty anything in the proper enclosure can get loud. i built a box for my single 12" bl back in the day and put one of my old power acoustik fubars in it and it blew the 2 fubars i had in a prefab away! it was so loud!!! then i got the bl (wired lower) and it got even louder!!! anything in the right enclosure will be louder than somehting not in the right enclosure (aka prefab)

yea, im very confident these 12's will get me to the 150 mark, but it feels like cheating using 2 to get there, but some time ill get one 12 to do a 150 out my trunk lol

So why would you use a DMM instead knowing that each amp clips at different levels? Ignoring issues is a surefire way to blow things up. ummm, first you use the oscope to find clipping, then you gain match with dmm... every amp is different, if you set both amps to clipping the subs will be getting different amounts of power, thus creating cancelation... there is no perfect way to do this other than strapping. ive never blown a sub in my life, id like to think i know what im doing.... lol all i know is by using my method a buddy of mine gained close to a db by gain matching his 3 amps...