antonmiller

fuckin btl it is!!! what color dust cap u gettin for your 12 gotta keep it original! stickin with the white. everything else looks weird....

so you use solidworks or inventor? or is this just sketch up stuff?

hes got an audio pipe 3000. i would say musically go with the BTL output wise go with the aq. also i dont think the aq's are supposed to be tuned that low. i think a 35 hz tuning would be good for them since they have the throw to be able to hit lower notes at higher tuning. im going with the BTL on moving more air and sounding better.

thanks! and speaking of testing i went and got my alt tested, the one from motor city reman and it only does 30 amps at idle..... its going back as soon as i get time to take it off the car. (its snowing here other wise i would do it in the parking lot of my apartment complex)

it probly wont handle that 1600 wrms very well in a bigger enclosure like that. the lows should be better. the best thing to do is to try it out. no one will give you a yes or no answer on any forum from what im seeing. so im going to just say it again. your probly going to have to try it out to find out. if it doesnt work out for you then sell the box to some punk kid. lol

lows could be better... build it and find out.

ok so i think im just going to build box boxes and see which one perfroms better and then report back here when the results are done. so ive design up 2 boxes both tune to 34 hz with about the same port area. and they box have almost the same interior volum they are off by about .06 cu ft (like nothing). so first here is the top gap box that i design its port is 11.25 high x 3.75 wide x 32" long and the interior volume is 2.4 cu ft. it will leave a gap of about 3.5" by around 20-23 inches long on the top. it also features a 2x4" on the back of the box for support as i couldnt get a support inside the box... next is the side gap box. its port is 14.5 high x 2.875 wide x 32" long. it has 2.46 cu ft internally and will leave about a 8-9"" gap by 10-15 inches tall (angled sides) on the driver side. it also has a nicley rounded edge for that side of the box, i would assume it would help with flow. please all comments and concerns welcome i just want to do it right.

it will help for flow, and from what i know better flow equals better spl....

ok for the Kinetic HC2000 it fits in the 650 cu inch category, but is it a standard 6 cell battery? im asking because i dont know where else to find this info out with out talking to kinetic them selves. thanks

Hi SSA Members, Im looking to do a single battery in the trunk of my 1997 chevy cavalier, i will be running a single aq3500 with a single 12" Fi Audio BTL. now i already have a high output alternator that does 200 amps max and 90-100 at idle. and i have a battery up front (yellow top) that will go away so i conform to the rules of DB drag of a single 650 cu inch battery. now all i need is the battery. The only one ive seen so far that i think meets the rule is the Kinetic HC2000. But im not an electrical mastermind and quite frankly i have no idea how to get a good electrical system going. so i need a battery, and maybe some hints as to how to do the single battery in the trunk without one up front. as well as some good advice for grounding it all off. Thanks, Anton Miller

no.... i really should, but i hate to ask people to do me a favor. none of my friends really are into the audio scene so i usually go alone ot comps and i really dont like to ask strangers for a favor.... would its help to hold the trunk down?

sounds like my box i have right now, and its super choked off. ill snap some pics tomarro. i know it could go closer to the trunk lid, but not much before hitting 5-6inches away. but ill get some pics tomarro. thanks for the help

its going to be a daily tune of 34 hz. i just want to know how i should let the sub breath into the cabin, how much space to i need between box and side of opening to be ample area for air to eisily go in and out of the trunk to the cabin. top or side opening?

you might want to list them as your prices instead of this, cause this kind of tunred me off the products. list your prices! lol

what about banners? are you guys going to be getting any of them?

ok so i was told by some one on another forum to try to put the battery sidways first and see if it will fit that way. i was just wondering if anyone has put a battery sidways? is it safe?

thank you for that. i knew there should be a way to figure it out, but i couldnt think of it. doing the circumference thing sounds like a good way to do it. thanks again!!

link, read section 6-8i "The primary battery must be located in the same general area as the OEM battery location. (For example, if the OEM battery location is under the hood, the primary battery must be located under the hood as well. Aftermarket battery trays and/or custom fabricated battery brackets may be installed provided no other applicable rules are violated.)" quoted from above. ill try to get some pics this week end. but it is a pain in the ass to get my battery out, so i might just try to get some with the battery in there. i hope those kinds of pics will help. Thanks

all right i just reread the DB Drag rules. and I cant have the battery mounted in the trunk. big bummer. now i need suggestions to get about a half inch of hieght out of my stock battery tray. how do i go about modifying my battery tray to fit a HC2000?

On the Termlab im hitting a 144.3 sealed up at the dash with a sweep. its in a trunked cavalier. i just want to know if i can get that score a little bit higher? would holding the trunk lid, sunroof, or doors down during a run help? would more room for air to get into the cabin help? does subwoofer box placement help, meaning how far away from the trunk lid it is, also how about rear seat folded down half way help? how about front seat positions? kind of just trying to get as much of an edge as i can. with the 144.3 run it was all set up for daily driving, not much tuning done at all, as in i didnt play with box position, or seat position or anything like that. i just kinda drove up they put the mic in and went, i did play with the gain and lowpass filter after i got my oscope working but other than that its pretty much how i drove to the event. what ive got (the equiptment cant change) single 12" Fi audio BL 1 rockford fosgate 1500-1bd 2/0 wire to the amp, 2/0 wire big three stock electrical pioneer 6000ub head unit box tuned to 34 hz with 39 sq inches of port. good video showing the box possistion and other things i have work with more videos if you click my sig(if interested)the 2 above pertain to the post the most. sorry if this is in the wrong spot

^^this^^, i would also like any tips on kerfing if possible. like how deep did you cut and what was the spacing, as well as the final radii? thanks

more info on the amps? i was looking at the 200.1, like prices and straped specs like actual bench testing?

there is no reason to tune to 20 hz. music does not go that low generally, a 28 hz tuning would be great for music. and since your subsonic filer kicks in at 28 hz it is perfect. Is there any other reason to tune your box to 20 hz other than the fact that your amp can produce sound at 20 hz?

ok so im starting to think that i should move up into class street b, just because there is more competition aorund here for that and im sick of not competing against anyone (that is except like a single 12" type r), so right now i have 1 12" fi audio bl in the trunk of a cavalier, tuned to 34 hz on 1800 wrms. what i want to do is be very competitive in street b for db drag. however i really want it to be a ground pounder and hit those lows, so i was thinking a 28-30 tune for daily and a 40-42 hz tune for comps. but what i really want to know is which ten inch subs should i go with? the ones that pop into my head are fi bl, fi q, dc sumthing, or audio que hdc3. i dont know, maybe im missing somthing here. budget isnt a question as this is still in the conceptual stage, but try to keep the subs under 400 a piece. oh and itll be ran off of 1 aq 3500. (or equivelant) thank you,

I personally dont think 3-10"s would shock people, what really shocks people is high scores put up by small equipment and not that much power or small equipment and alot of power. Whats shocking is someone doing over 150 with 2-10's like Thorshammer on this forum does and now since that is done, I cant wait to see someone start getting high db read outs from some 8" subwoofers (that should be what one wants to gear themselves toward if they just want to shock people). just my .02 ok so maybe it wouldnt shock people on the internet, but here in Minnesota, people are shocked by my single 12, imagine how shocked they would be by 3 10"s on twice the power. but i think ill stick with the BTL Goal like stated....