bobonit

Should be about 5.85cf after all displacements. The ports make it look cramped, but thats all in the middle. There is lots of room behind the subs. Its pretty deep, about 26". Its just shallow from top to bottom, it made it hard to get the ports on the baffle, but I got it finally.

Ok, now I'm making progress again. I just packed 5lbs of stuff into a 3lb bag Gonna install the T-Nuts, dowel rods, sides and then shop for some covering.

Not a bad question at all, I was wondering about that to some extent as well. I guess its one of those things where you would have to build the two different enclosures and try them with the same driver to really see how it reacts. And the results would probably be different with different drivers as well.

Welcome to SSA, my 97 Maxima is here too. Good to have some company.

Cut the holes in the 2nd baffle and started the counter sinks to flush mount the subs: Test fitted one of the subs, perfect fit I'll finish the baffle and ports on Monday.

If the power wire running to the amp is a very short run (such as from a trunk mounted battery to a trunk mounted amp), no it would not be a benefit to run 1/0. But if the amp is in the trunk and you are hooking it up to a battery under the hood, the 1/0 would benefit you in that it will have less voltage drop. But either way, trimming the end of a 1/0 cable to fit in your 4awg amp terminals will not change anything.

Check your belt on the alternator, if it is slipping under load that could cause your voltage drop as well.

Installed 2nd baffle: After I finish the holes for the subs and ports, I'll install the dowel rods for support. I'm gonna go shopping for felt today for the covering. Hopefully I can find some nice tan to match the interior for the front baffle. I'll just get the grey trunk stuff for the back. After I install and align the ports, I'll put the sides on then the box should be done at least.

Its been a while since I've been able to work on this, but I finally got my ports together and I'm fitting them into the enclosure. I ordered 2 Genova 6" 90 degree elbows and painted them black with Rustoleum Plastic paint. They came out better than I thought they would, that paint really adheres to pvc well. Here is a pic of the precision ports and the pvc elbows after painting: You can judge their size next to my shoes. Here they are assembled, not permanently: Test fitting in the box: Tomorrow I should be able do a final fit and mount them. I guess I'll have to buy some carpet soon.

To the OP, if you are referring to the torsion bars that hold the trunk lid up, you can remove them without bolt cutters, just be careful because when you pry them out, they will pop on ya something fierce. However, at least on my 97 Maxima, the trunk lid is heavy as hell. I have 2 100# force Strong Arm lift supports installed now in place of the torsion bars, and it lifts the trunk for me. See my build log for pics:http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=25622 I didn't take pics of the bars before I removed them, but you can see the struts that I replaced them with.

Beautiful work, just beautiful.

Yea, talk about a copyright problem, that is the same exact picture. Check out the lighting.

I love those flared ports.

x2 on that, if your table saw takes a 10" blade, that bish will do it.

I have this blade for my Dewalt Compound Miter Saw: http://grizzly.com/outlet/DW7668-12-x-1-80...tic-Blade/H6591 Thats a 12" blade. What size blade does your table saw use? I wonder if they make a MTCG blade for your table saw. MTCG is the type of cut they use on the carbide tips for cutting plastics.

Yea, if I take .4cf away from the box, i can fit the 2 E8's and 2 6.5" Tang Bands in the deck IB. The real question, how much of a difference will a 5.4cf enclosure sound vs a 5.8cf enclosure tuning on both will be around 30hz with 3000rms on the pair of subs? I'd say scrap the extra pairs of drivers and just do the 3 ways up front. Not like you want to buy another H701 so you can actually run them all anyways. Well, both front and back would be 3 way active. The H701 is for EQ, I'm going to use the crossovers on the new SAX-100.4d amps. But I sense an overall opinion to scrap them, so I may do that for now and see how I like it. I can always revisit the rear at a later time.

Yea, if I take .4cf away from the box, i can fit the 2 E8's and 2 6.5" Tang Bands in the deck IB. The real question, how much of a difference will a 5.4cf enclosure sound vs a 5.8cf enclosure tuning on both will be around 30hz with 3000rms on the pair of subs?

I've seriously thought about it, the only reason I haven't yet is I was planning on having 5.1 with the iva-w505 and pxa-h701 when I play dvd's. The kids dig watching movies when we go on a trip and that would be cool, HT in the car heheheh. I might just have to cave on that though...undecided. You know the kids are going to think that there is a monster trying to break out of the trunk watching some movies. lol "Jurassic Park" is high on the list !!! I just need to remember the glasses of water

I've seriously thought about it, the only reason I haven't yet is I was planning on having 5.1 with the iva-w505 and pxa-h701 when I play dvd's. The kids dig watching movies when we go on a trip and that would be cool, HT in the car heheheh. I might just have to cave on that though...undecided.

Well, I've been real busy lately, so here is all I've accomplished in a little while. Removed the rear deck and speakers to fully test fit the sub box. Box fits perfectly. I didn't match the angle of the baffle to the angle of the rear seat because I wanted a little extra clearance near the bottom where the center armrest in the rear seat (ski hole) is hinged as it protrudes from the rear of the seat back a little bit. Here's how it looks from the trunk view. I really have to think hard about what I want to with the rear deck, there is no room below the deck at all so the only option would be to make a little room in the top of the box which would bring it down to about 5.4cf net instead of 5.8cf. So let me ask all you experienced box builders, will that .4cf really make much difference? Otherwise I have to start looking at the rear doors which I really didn't want to have to do. Thanks in advance for any input, Bob.

First and easiest thing to check would be how tight is your belt? If you push against it with your finger, how far can you move it? It could be slipping. Ribbed serpentine belts are very quiet when slipping.

Well, to set your gains, I would use single tones so you can see the sine waves on an o-scope to make sure it was not clipping (not a flat top). I would use the noise with an RTA to set the eq levels (not gains) to make sure you have a flat response, then adjust to your ear from there. Edit: M5, beat me to it hehehe

Here you go: http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm Tones, sweeps, noise,... Its all there. You can also download and install Audacity and make your own, pretty easy to do.