bobonit

No I didn't, just scrolled up and saw it, way cool. That would have saved me about 1/2 hour this morning. I just kicked up a shit load of turquoise colored dust with my 5" sanding disc !!!

So do you cover the area you are going to sand with Baby Powder? Or do you put baby powder on your skin? Edit: Nevermind, read on fiberglassforums to rub it on your arms. I'll try that today.

Honestly, because I've never played with T/A before. Figured I'd let it do its thing and then I can adjust from there. I guess I can just try to do it manually. Mainly I want to have the subs aligned with the front stage, not too worried about the width of the front stage yet, I'll play with that later.

Easy way to check if your speaker wires are connected properly is to disconnect them from the amplifier and connect a AA battery across the leads. If you connect the positive terminal of the sub to the positive terminal of the battery and negative to negative you should see the sub "pop out" or show some outward excursion. If it goes "in" instead, its wired backwards.

DOH, all is clear now. I was thinking you could use both HPF and LPF as a bandpass filter, but yea, you need to use the SSF (reading > Me). My 100.4's are the same way, it just didn't occur to me since I'm using the crossovers on my H701.

You aren't understanding what he's saying. The subsonic filter on the amp can be used as a highpass filter for the mids at 80 hz, or whatever. The subsonic on the 50.4 goes up to 500 hz, and I'm guessing is 12 db/octave. To the OP, you have the crossovers switched around. You'd want to highpass the tweeters at 3k and lowpass the mids at 3k. I understand that. I'm just wondering why you would use the subsonic Filter as a High Pass Filter when it has a High Pass Filter already?

Alpine IVA-W505 with the NVE-P1 navigation. Right now you can order the 505 for $829.99 and the NVE-P1 is $299.99 so its in your price range. Those prices are at Crutchfield so you get full warranty.

For your mids, you would want to use your HPF and LPF for the range that your mids will be playing. If you are only using the 50.4 for mids and tweets, you would not need the subsonic filter as there is no sub attached.

That's the way to go Yea, I'm starting to like the idea more and more. I'm taking an idea from //M5 to use my PXA-H701's crossovers for 3 way active up front. Front1 will go to the Tweeters, Front2 will go to the Tang Band Mids and Rear will go to the E8's in the doors. I actually have a question about doing that. Will the Auto Time Alignment feature of the H701/RUX-C701 get messed up with having the rear channel actually being up front?

I'm thinking about getting one of those OXO Good Grips hand held graters, they are like 10 to 15 bucks and are easy to hold.

That is hilarious !!!

Interesting, I'll have to try that !!!

Cool, thanks again for the info. I'll have to sand sooner next time, today I'm screwed. Just unleashed from above, oh well, we need the rain. I'll hit it with my 5" disc tomorrow morning. Oh, and on another note, I've decided to stick with front stage only for now. I'll see how I like it. If I keep it like that, I'll have a 100.4, a pair of Seas Neos, pair of Tang Band 6.5's and a pair of Sundown E8's to put in the wifes CRV hehehehe.

Crap, let me see if I can get out there and start sanding. Looks like its going to pour Thanks for the heads up though.

Made some more progress on the kicks... Got 4 layers of 1.5oz mat on them now Spread on some Everglass. I'll sand them tomorrow after they cure overnight. Also got some new goodies from McMaster Carr. 3/8" x 1 1/2" Copper Bars 5/16" Brass Threaded Rod, Brass nuts and washers for the speaker wires on the sub box.

I was in the same boat as you. Plenty of room in the trunk for the enclosure, but too damn small of a trunk opening to put it in. Had to cut to get in through the back seat. Your cuts came out real nice, good job. My car has a metal plate that I took out, I left enough screw holes to put it back, won't even see the cuts after its back in.

Thank you.

Finally made some progress with the kicks today. I had wrapped them but didn't like how they turned out so I broke out the dremel and cut off the resin'd ponte and rewrapped them today and applied resin to both and had time to put a layer of mat on one of them... Also had a new toy show up today...

Got some new toys... Some D925s for the trunk. After putting them in the tire well, it looks like I can fit 2 more. If I still get voltage drop, I'll add them, if not I'll leave it like this. I just have to make some braces to hold them in place. And some more stuff from Knukoncepts... Some 1/0 power, 4awg power and 12awg speaker wire. RCA's... Some more 12awg speaker wire and 8awg speaker wire.

I have 4 xspower d925 batts in my spare tire well, I was thinking of using the spare tire screwdown to mount a piece of 2x4 in between the batts, and I could put 2 buss bars on opposing sides of the wood, ground on one side and pos on the other.

I want to make 2 buss bars, one for ground and one for positive. I'd like to mount them to opposite sides of the same piece of wood. No pieces of metal will touch, so would this be ok?

I see one of these in your future... Cuts like butter !!!

I haven't wrapped with anything else so I can't compare it to fleece or anything, but I like how thin it is. I'll have a better answer tomorrow as I should be finished with it, I'm only like 1/4 done. It took me awhile to get the hang of hot glueing the ponte to the base. But it seems to stretch pretty smooth.

x2, that does look too shallow.

Well, spent the day aiming the tweeter and attaching it to the midrange ring. Then broke out the Ponte and started wrapping it little by little. I'll do some more on it tomorrow. Today I ordered RCA's, speaker wire, power and ground cables from Knukoncepts to wire up my trunk. I also ordered some laminating brushes from Bodico for laying the mat on the kicks.