bobonit

With an amp that big, you are going to need: Big 3 done in 1/0, an upgraded alt and extra batteries. Batteries don't charge themselves.

The Sundown E8's are discontinued and hard to find and the Sundown X8 is not available yet.

Well it will tarnish for sure, but corrode, not sure about that. I went with copper because they can handle the same amount of current as a larger aluminum bar. I'll see how they do, as long as the battery doesn't leak I'm hoping they will be ok. I wonder if rubbing them down with a little dielectric grease would help?

Finally, an update. Got the electrical up front done. Ran 3 new grounds, hooked up the 2 runs of 1/0 that run to the trunk minus the fuses. I'll install the fuses in the fuse holders when I install the rear buss bars. Now I can focus on the trunk. Hopefully it won't be another month

Here are How to Videos on finding out at what point your Deck Clips and setting gains on the amp. How To - Recognize Clipping, Set Up Your Deck With An O-scope http://www.*****.com/board/index.php?showtopic=41953 How To Set Your Amp Gains With An O-scope (easy!) http://www.*****.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44377

When you measure the length of a flared port, you include 1/2 the length of the flare. For example.. if the length of the flared area of the port is 3 inches, you would add 1.5 inches to the length of the non flared area for your measurements.

That looks great !!!

I second that, looks quite amazing, I'd love to try my hand at it sometime. eager to see new pictures/updates. Thanks. The hardest part was getting the confidence to start it. Just do your homework and read all the fiberglassing how-to's you can find, get good materials and get used to working with the resin and chopped mat. I did all the corners and joints inside the sub box with mat/resin first, so I sort of got used to using it before I started the kicks.

Got the front buss bars done. Just need to get some longer 3/8 bolts to mount them to the Kinetik HC1800. Got some longer ones to do for the back.

x2, put the pulley the alt came with back on and get a slightly smaller belt, otherwise you are doing nothing but asking for trouble.

Whats the current draw going to be like?

Ok, thanks. I'll try 25.

It looks like I'll finally be getting these bad boys in the car soon. Box is built, kicks are built, just need to mount the 8's in the doors and dress everything up. Soon I'll be installing the actual components and setting everything up. I've never done a ported enclosure before so I'd like to get some advise on the subsonic filter from you guys. This install is with the 2 copper coil 15" nightshades which have a Fs of: Fs: 30.9 Hz settling to around 28 Hz after break in. I have the box tuned to approx 29.5 to 30hz. What should I set my subsonic filter at so I don't unload these things? They will be powered by one SAZ-3000D at 1ohm. Thanks again for all your help. This build is coming out better with all the help I get on here. Bob.

I always thought your builds were works of art, but this just takes it to a whole new level. I'm sure it will sound as good as it looks. We're not worthy !! We're not worthy !!

Oooh, whatcha gettin?

Welcome !!!

Welcome to SSA !!!

Thanks. I've got nothing done on it this week, I started my new job this week so although I'm almost done, its gonna be slow finishing. I'm going to try to get some fabric this week so I can wrap these kicks. After that, I'm going to seal up the inside of the front baffle in the box. There is still some gaps where the ports come through. After that I'll start installing stuff in the car. My alpine came in today and I have all my cables. Oh yea, gotta make my buss bars. I'll post more pics when I get something else done. Thanks for all the comments !!!

Per foot unless it is clearly marked as a spool.

I highly doubt you find what you are looking for. The H701 is one of the best processors on the market, to try to find a Head Unit with the same features as that dedicated processor will be next to impossible. I'm not even sure if there is a Head Unit that will do 3 way active, I'm sure others will chime in if there is.

Thanks!!

What i use is sometimes called kitty hair, Its like a jelly resin with long or short strand of fiberglass mixed in. the way i learned was fiberglass, kitty hair, body filler, but i just use kitty hair last most of the time. ive never used rage though, just bondo brand stuff from walmart. the bondo should be thicker, ive heard of ppl thinning it out with somethin, but i cant remember wat. The way i apply it is spread, grate, spread, grate, sand. before I apply the filler i sand down the fiberglass. i also sand down the fiberglass inbetween sessions, but for door panels i do it all the layers at once. Did that answer you? i kinda just rambled on No rambling at all. I got the point clearly, thanks. The Everglass is like a cookie dough consistency, hard to spread evenly, but my sanding disc took it down real quick. I could see the cheese grater working real good with it. I already have the Rage, so I'll see how that works as a last layer. Thanks again.

Thanks !! Man, I gotta say that doing this build has given me a lot of respect for you guys that do this all the time. Fabricating with fiberglass is hard work, but it is rewarding when its done, you can look at it and say "I made that".

Ok, these are coming out better than I imagined. I'm going to apply some rage extreme next, sand that down and see how they look. After that I might just be ready to wrap them with some felt. They fit perfectly in the car. Drove around with them today and they are not loose at all. The factory clips are holding them very tight. So what are your honest opinions? First time fiberglassing, I'm happy with them so far. Not done yet, but still, happy with the progress.

Fritosaregood, I got a question for you. Is it just the reinforced filler that is real thick like that? I mean, when I apply the Rage Extreme, does it go on smoother or am I going to be doing the same routine, spread - grate - sand... I've never done this before, so its all new to me.