Beandip

Lmao never heard of anyone calling them boob cones. That made my day. Personally I like the way they look. Shows off the craftsmanship that went into assembly.

As most posted, get welding cable. Not the prettiest stuff but blends well in an engine bay and it's the best bang for your buck. IMO the only reason to buy any "stereo" brand is for just the look. To me it doesn't justify the added cost.

Good deal. so would you recommend building a new sealed box to the max size recommendation or will there not be much of a difference from the minimum requirement box i have now?

Well here is the thing. Yesterday I tore out all my 4 gauge wiring to upgrade it to 1/0 welding cable, soldered and heat shrink and all that good stuff. Anyways I decided to take my sub out of it's box to look at it. It's been 2 years since I took it out and it wouldnt hurt to check for any wear/possible damage. I amost forgot what the back of the sub looked like lol. So I noticed the sub is "double slugged" or how people call it. I remember on Fi's website the Q had one magnet. So my question is why did they make the older Q with 2 and the newer ones with 1? Anything changed? Any sort of benefits from it or what? Just courious though. I was thinking of getting another Q sometime in the future but I don't want to mix and match motors like that. I tried to search for an answer but there was only 2 topics that showed up in search. One more thing. If the sub now is a dual 1 ohm. Could I order a recone kit for a dual 2 ohm? Since everyone likes pics . Thanks for your time.

That is great to hear! i may just order a re-cone kit from you just to have "in stock". i never re-coned a sub before but from what i see its not all that hard. i may be tempted to get one of the new 2010 Qs, i may go with an 18" who knows... Anyways thanks for the help/quick responses! sorry about the delay, but i love it, never heard one in a ported box before, but i love mine in a sealed box, you can play as low as you want, it still hits hard for rock, idk i just love sealed boxes for the sound they give, sure i wish it had a bit more output, but then again i probably just gotten used to it (though i dont crank it full tilt hardly ever) If i were to do it all over again i would still get the Q. i do have a video of it in action in the Fi General section, in the "lets see your videos" thread.

For my truck. Currently have it at 2.2 sealed after displacement. Not sure if going a bit bigger will make any difference or be worth the trouble building a new box. So if the soft parts are different will you guys still have the soft parts for the old Q? What will I have to do if the time comes to recone this (hopefully never) LOL I feel outdated.

Thanks Nick! Sadly I sorta cheaped out when I got this sub so no BP option. Really. If I wanted a second one I'll probably use this one for a home theater setup and buy 2 new 2010 Qs. Money is no problem. But again. Getting a second one is just a thought. Doubt I will do it anytime soon. So my new question is, if I were to recone my sub now, would the soft parts from the new Q work? (keeping it the same impedance). And in your opinion, would it be worth building a new box to 2.5 cu ft sealed? I'm currently running it in a 2.2 cu ft after displacement. Right now I'm Happy with the output and very happy with the Q, but of course we all want that tiny bit more Jay-cee I'll respond to your question later. Posting from my phone.

Thanks a lot. No big deal about the recone. I'll just keep one or get another for a home theater What I can do is build a bigger sealed box since mines at the minimum 2.2 sq ft after displacement. The whole 2 Qs was just a want and not a need. Very happy with just one for now. So looks like off to Lowes for some mdf sometime this week!

It helps some. But when I ordered this sub 2 years or so ago there was no such option. Just "bp power" and what coil impedance. Even so. I can still just get another dual 1 ohm Q and wire them in series, then parallel them into my sundown amp. But it's just a thought. Don't know if I do want 2 Qs as it seems a bit unessisary. Not trying to be the loudest or doing any comps so there is no point really. Guess if i want more output I could always build a ported box...though I like the way sealed sounds and honestly the Q does get pretty loud.

Nothing special but here is my sealed Q. more info in my sig. also @ 20 hz.

From what I have read their QC has gone down from outsourcing their work and using impure lead. Even if what above is not true. There is much better for the money.

^ agreed

Nice. They look beefy.

I'd run a new remote wire and check for voltage on your RCA cables. Also check your HU for any options that could disable the RCA output. Sounds like that audio shop didn't troubleshoot crap but just took a guess. Also throw a DMM on the rear battery and have your friend turn the car on and see what the voltage is. It wouldn't hurt to make sure the battery cables are nice and tight on both front and rear battery. Just a wild theory. Let's say your front battery connections are corroded or maybe you have a bad ground. When you start the engine the power comes from the rear battery along that 1/0 welding cable you ran since the front battery is essentially dosconnected, causing a voltage drop to make the amp go into protect. But I doubt it. Just throwing the idea out there.

Basically what M5 is saying is that if you set your gains on one cd but the next cd could have been recorded at a higher volume level. Since you optimized your output from the amp on the lower volume cd, the cd that was recorded using a higher level could cause hour amp to clip. But since you are not competing there is no point to optimize the output since you cannot hear the difference. Just listen to your btl, it will tell you when you are pushing it too far.

One reason the military or NASA doesn't solder is it takes time and time = lots of money. I can hang off my solder connection so I guess it's good for government work... For car audio either solder or crimp or maybe both..when done right it will be more than capable to do the job.

The way i see it a proper crimp is OK in my book, same goes for a proper solder. both are more than strong enough to withstand anything you are going to do with that wire in a car audio situation and even if a solder only connection could possibly be less conductive than crimping i bet the difference will be minuscule. especially seeing how they solder everything in a circuit board. a crimp/solder connection is the best of both worlds and generally that is what i do, but if it were a crimp only or solder only connection i wouldn't worry about it as long as it was done right. not my pic, but this guy did a solder only connection on a 4 gauge lug, its strong enough to lift a vice off the table and that is way more stress that cable will see in an audio application.

I solder all my connections, And a propane torch is cheap.

This was posted on a truck site i'm on a few years ago. the guy never thought this process out and now he cant put a tonneau cover on his truck. +10 bonus points for using Pyle and a prefab box.

^x2 on that yeah i think it may be your settings. when i first got my sundown 1500D my Q didnt sound the same as it did with the alpine, it took a little bit of playing with the settings but i got it down exactly where i liked it, sounded even better than when i had it on the alpine.

I kinda hear ya on drilling a hole, but just drill one and add a rubber grommet. if you ever decide to remove the system or whatever just plug the hole with a new solid grommet. that or you can do what stefanhinote said.

A couple of days late but you can also precut the length you need and feed it on the wire BEFORE you solder your connection. that way you wont have to worry about going over the terminal.

Ok guys i might be opening a can of worms here but i dont understand why people do this to set their gain and think its right. to me, it doesnt make sense and i will explain why. a lot of times i see this chart here and people say set it for xxx voltage and you are set. ignore step 4 since without having a load on the amp is kinda pointless. if that chart is right, then i am putting 1300 watts to my sub, but with a clamp, DMM, and thanks to ohms law, i found out i am putting ~800 to my sub. i am not saying that chart is mathematically wrong, just cant be used the way its intended. so whats the deal? i dont understand why you would use that chart (or any formula equivalent of that chart) because the speaker impedance changes while a speaker plays so the amp doesn't see a load of 2 ohms all the time (technically it doesn't even see 2 ohm!). being that, why do you want to set your amp to "xx" voltage and when you turn up the sub to xx voltage the amp sees a different load because the impedance changes with frequency and so does the amount of power the sub is receiving, therfore the set voltage = "this much power" is just BS. one example, based on that chart, if i follow the instructions 100% and lets say i set my amp to 40 volts since i am running @ 2 ohms so i can feed my sub 800 watts...when i hook up the sub after this procedure, will it see 800 watts? I think not... Another example... I pasted the chart i made of the actual output of my amp @ 2 ohms (SAZ-1500D 1500 @ 1 ohm, 800 @ 2 ohm...need to recone the sub to dual 2 ohm sometime.) Volume----Frequency-----AC voltage-----AC amperage----Ohms------------Watts 31----------------20------------49.9------------------14.3----------3.489------------713.57 31----------------25------------48.9------------------12.5----------3.912-----------611.25 31----------------30------------50.1------------------8.7-----------5.758-----------435.87 31----------------35------------50.8------------------4.8-----------10.53-----------243.84 31----------------40------------51.3------------------7.1-----------7.225-----------364.23 31----------------45------------51.2-----------------14.1----------3.631-----------721.92 31----------------50------------50.6-----------------16.4----------3.085-----------829.84 31----------------55------------49.5-----------------17.6----------2.812-----------871.2 31----------------60------------48.1-----------------17.7----------2.717-----------851.37 31----------------65------------49.5-----------------16.7----------2.964-----------826.65 31----------------70------------42.2-----------------15.2----------2.776-----------641.44 31----------------75------------36.4-----------------12.8----------2.843-----------465.92 31----------------80------------31.1-----------------10.7----------2.906-----------332.77 so as you can see, since the impedance changes with frequency, setting a certain voltage is completely useless. also a little bit of the subject is in this thread. how i got that chart and took the readings explained here from another forum. IMO i think a combination of this and your hearing will set your gains correctly since you know what EXACTLY your sub is seeing power wise. Ideally i would say set it like this and find out the power you are throwing at the sub and then use a O-scope (if you can get a hold of one) to check for clipping. setting the gain solely by DMM wont help much either since some subwoofers are at more of a risk of mechanical damage than thermal. in the end, doesn't box design play a large role on what your speaker can take? since everyone doesn't have the same box design who is to say this is right? yes a sub might be able to handle XXXX amount of watts but if the box is too large then you are at risk of mechanical damage correct? so again, you can use this method to check for thermal damage, and if your box is larger than the recommended size then use common sense and listen to what the sub is saying for any signs of mechanical stress. so if the impedance changes though the frequencies so much, why are you setting the gain on that chart, assuming you are at "X" ohms? all i can see is just really under powering your sub.... Also not trying to start shit, just trying to get a good answer on to why...also seems like a good technical discussion

^Ever since my first system that is what i have been doing. Kinda want a scope (suggestions?) thanks for the detailed answer, appreciate the time you took to write that up. on the gain setting i always knew (well not always) that you adjust it to the output voltage of the HU and that the amp would provide full power at any gain setting (within the amp's input spec), never really read into WHY, and about rail voltage. thanks for clearing that up. So basically while its not ideal to set the gains this way, its a start... one thing though, why is it the sundown 1200D does not follow the "double each time impedance is halved" rule? :EDIT: just looked on sundown's site and saw why. i was wondering where you got 360 and 720 from lol.

Ah, i figured it was a "here do it and this will be perfect" way, at least that is how i have been seeing it....but i do see your point a novice would be less likely to overdo the gain doing it this way. especially if its their first system, they would be less likely to know when a sub is distorting or not acting right.... its like a ballpark estimate. I just kept looking this and other posts that recommend doing this it and thought to myself...why, this is wrong and not exactly right. A scope would be nice....I need to get off my lazy ass and buy one