Beandip

Sweet thanks for the info man. And I will probably ask nick where he thinks the lead broke. If it's inside the dust cap then for sure I will try to solder the break. Just depends though. It's a shot in the dark but with a try. Either it's fixed or stays the way it is until the re-cone comes in. If anything I'm pissed it broke over something stupid like a couple of feedback pops. I would understand if it broke while doing a 20 hz cup trick or something but just seems silly how it's life ended.

Awesome thanks for the support! Well guess I will do some SSA searching to make sure I get this re-cone done right!

Ok. I just didnt want to order it and come to find out that the Q soft parts are not interchangeable. Guess I will place my order then until I get the parts I suppose it's going to be wired to the one coil wonder lol. And on the bp option....might as well right? It's no added cost but I thought it was something machined into the motor.

^ gotcha. And don't see an option to select which motor? Just see the size,dust cap, ohm, send in sub, bp option, and basket. https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn154e184e5fc413c/shopdata/0080_Recones/0010_Fi+Recone+Shop/product_overview.shopscript

I thought the newer Qs had different soft parts since they use the btl UFO motor. And I suppose I'll re-cone it to a dual 1 ohm again, I don't know if i want the stress of 1 ohm on my electrical and I dont think the sub is universal. One more thing. The bp option can be added to the re-cone and work fine on a non original bp equipped sub correct? Not sure what is exactly different. I may not get that option since I am running the sub at 2 ohm.

Thanks for the reply, yeah it was a bit of excursion when the HU turned on/off only did it like 3 times but really it must have taken some decent power to make it pop the way it did. Kinda looked like a 5 hz tone as slow as it did pop. But that's just a guess. I knew it couldn't be a coincidence but for me i like to know what went wrong. The popping seems to be the likely culprit. So getting down to business you guys do have the older style Q recone correct?

Yeah i might just tackle the recone. but i am thinking about taking a knife to it and seeing if i can find the problem....at the same time it works on one coil so i could run it like that until i get a recone in . gotta see what the Fi pros say though. I still have that feeling its because something i did wrong....but i dont know what. seems odd i tear it all apart, get it back together and barely crank it and it dies. may be a coincidence but damn you know.

Yeah good old pioneer deck. but when the sub was working my focal K2s were keeping up with it beautifully! Really on the recone i am not sure how to scrape off the glue or the exact procedure on how much tolerance the coil gap has. if i can use note cards well that seems easy enough. I did hear a slight and faint "rubbing" sound but really i bet it was the lead breaking/making contact until it finally broke. i heard this at super low volume like 1/8" sub movement but ignored it and turned it up then nothing. the amp didnt even go into protect since it was just like removing a speaker wire... really noob question but grounding the sub RCA and the front channel amp on the same "ground" cant be the cause of the problem right? i say to myself NO thats stupid wtf are you thinking but i'd rather ask a stupid question than to not ask one. oh and i suppose i can post these pics. excuse the welds lol, it was back when i was starting to learn and had thin gloves that would get too hot so i had to start/stop. anyways. Soldered my ground with a touch of heat shrink. Dash all torn apart, i am glad its only 7 screws to take that off. I ended up mounting the amp to the box....i really dont like doing this, but i couldnt make the amp rack because the passenger seat would hit the amp if you even slightly recline it so i had to put it on the box. No pics of the finished product though, it was too dark in my garage, tint doesnt help even with good shop lights.

So...I installed my amp...got it hooked up...turn on the truck....HORRIBLE alternator whine.... so i grounded the RCA cables on the HU and bam its fixed(pioneer HU btw)... so then i went ahead and tested my components. well i turned up the volume and BAM my Fi Q just died . i tested each connection with a DMM until i took out the sub and well i lost a coil...i have no clue what happened...the sub is going on 3 years old now and i know how that sub acts by heart. i know i wasnt pushing it too hard and i was at 2 ohm on my saz-1500d. but prior to this, when i had that alt whine, i the sub did "pop" when the key was turned off since there was a feedback of some sort (you guys should know what i am talking about) but that only happened 3 times until i fixed the ground issue with the RCA... that might have been the last straw if a connection or lead was getting worn out. Sub lived a good life playing all sorts of music and abuse. i suppose i should order a recone kit, but never done one before and kinda worried about getting the coil centered. anyways grounding out the RCA cables DID solve my compressor feedback problem...so i guess thats a plus. pic of said fix. i grounded the sub and the front RCAs. kinda feels ghetto but it did solve the issue....

Thanks for the pics man. I'll try that later. Currently.... Since the amp is so tall I am going to have to mount it on the box. It's a sealed box and on the side should be very sturdy with no flex. Not too happy about doing it this way but if I mount the amp above the other one I can't recline the passenger seat much.

So the line on the diode facing towards the ground correct?

Well just wired it directly to the battery. Used some jumper cables as temp wire but the click is still there. NOW I'm confused lol. Going to try to wire that diode in next.

You are correct in your first paragraph. I wired the diode inline on the remote, I have not yet tried to do it the way you described yet. On the wiring scheme. Direct wire to battery Direct ground to frame Remote turn on to radio ACC circuit and the toggle is 2 ft before it ties into the radio ACC circuit. Everything is soldered. Going to wire the remote directly to the battery and see what happens. If the noise is still happening then that interference might travel up the main power wire, jump to my 1/0 stereo wire that is ran in close proximity to the frame, go though the amp, and then up to the rcas to the HU. Now that I think about it it's obvious what's the cause. The remote. It doesn't happen with the toggle switch because that breaks the circuit so the interference can't travel back. But when the pressure switch is killing the circuit it does because the switch is closed allowing the interference to travel to the radio.

I have a toggle Under the dash. The remote hooks into the radio ACC circuit and the toggle just interups the circuit going to the relay. I don't want the compressor to run while the truck is off since the horns are wired to my alarm.

Thanks a ton! I figured it was some type of feedback but I think the pressure switch has something to do with it. Like I said it won't happen when I switch off the current to pin 86, the remote turn on wire. Only when the system reaches it's max pressure and the pressure switch turns off. I did buy a diode from radio shack but I wired it inline on pin 86 basically. How do you suggest I wire the diode? Also I can get a video of what's going on if you guys want. Again thanks for the suggestion!

It's already on a relay. The pressure switch has one built in. Basically I already have it wired the way you posted. Pin 86 is what's on the radio ACC circuit. Not new to relays at all. But thanks for the help. :edit: ok just tested the LED for power and its getting .73 volts....if i recall correctly it should be 1.5 volts. And i didnt mention this earlier but the click noise only happens when the pressure switch itself switches the relay off....if i manually switch it no noise is heard. also i changed the location where the "remote" wire gets power for the compressor and that didnt change anything...its like its going throughout the whole system from the battery might just get a new pressure switch....but not going to whore this thread about that. i can troubleshoot a little further to be honest.

Last time when it went out I had low voltage to the led. Can't remember how much though. I know LEDs use low voltage but when it started working the voltage was much higher.

Yeah just curious when it's going to arrive. I have been checking my front door step daily lol. Just didn't know if he was behind or what. Also there is a bit of a story behind the led. Basically I have an air setup on my truck for my train horns. The remote turn on for the compressor is though the radio ACC circuit and the compeessor is grounded to yhe frame and the power ran directly to the battery. Anyways every time the compressor clicks off from reaching 150 psi I hear a small pop though my speakers and sub though the sub doesn't move, it's more of a click noise and nothing else. I found out one day that when I flipped the toggle off the led worked, then went out when switched on. Basically random but after a few months since then the led stopped today. It's like the amp itself that powers the led is bad or whatever part. Anyways I bought a radio shack diode to see if it can stop the click noise but that didn't work...really the only option is to wire it though some other accessory option that won't be affected by that feedback. Really thought the diode would work though. Sorry for the long story but there is no point in leaving out information.

Thanks a ton don. I ordered my sundown amp for my components Thursday. I figure I might as well see what kind of resonance problems I might have with the amp installed before ordering some deadener. That way I can for sure deal with any vibrations or rattles that come up when amped.

It's not just a stronger electrical, it's better for your equipment to maintain voltage. Still though, can't go wrong with welding cable. IMO it's better than car audio stuff in terms of durability and heat resistance.

An "NSQ" woofer would be interesting..... 1000 watt rating sounds like a good number for a SQ orientated driver. Definitely tuned in.

first, sorry for the noob questions, gotta start somewhere, also its late so i may be having brain farts Thanks i try to do things the right way, keeps me away from half-ass hacks. so what do you mean by outer skin? the actual outside of the panel where the paint is (inside of that) i wasnt sure because i figured it would retain moisture and cause it to rust. but even so what does covering the outer skin help? i figure you would just cover the inner panel (where the speaker mounts to the door) or do i have inner/outer skin mixed up lol. basically what exactly is the inner skin? the sheet metal behind the plastic door panel correct? just clarifying so i can be on the same page. well the components are IB as i recall, i may be wrong though but they are focal K2 165KR if you want to look at them yourself. i know i cant 100% seal the panel, but i know i can isolate the back wave to prevent cancellation at least. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sxrU7BsuN2I/s_091165KR/Focal-K2-Power-165KR.html sounds like a plan. so basically MLV plays more of an important role in midbass quality than the CLD? well assuming the sheetmetal doesnt resonate. now i know i am a noob, but that setup sounds thick, to me, at least sounds too thick to fit behind the door panel. of course you probably know what your talking about but at least that what comes to mind. i suppose i cut out holes where the panel clips go in correct? if not i see the panel having a gap when i go clip the panel back on. For my truck at least, i can play my system full tilt and have absolutely NO bass coming from the vehicle with the windows up. now once i amp the mids i am sure i could probably hear them from the outside. not sure if i will do this because i really dont blast my stereo all the time, if i do, its on the highway or away from people. i have respect for neighborhoods and while at a stoplight (not saying you dont). looks like i will pick up some butyl rope anyways, i could use them for the factory door pods for sure and other applications. the stuff sounds very versatile. Thanks for the insight, feels like i am learning already!

So Don, been reading a ton about your products and i think i am going to go ahead and treat my door panels. anyways, i am ordering an amp to get full use of my focal K2 components. lately i have been wasting them by not having them amped, even worse is the doors are not sealed at all so my midbass is horrible. anyways i was wondering what you suggest i do as far as how to seal the doors off. mostly road noise is not a huge issue in my truck, my tires play a big part in keeping that down so i dont think i need to address that issue yet since its not excessive IMO...but my main goal is to get the most out of my components. as far as the panel vibrating the only part that does is the window crank, but that is no big deal since i will be getting billet window cranks soon (plastic rotating part rattled). other than that the panel is solid as far as i can tell. so in conclusion, i was going to see how much of your CLD tiles i would need to treat the door. i know 25% coverage is whats needed but i'd like an expert opinion also i suppose it wouldnt hurt to get some MLV as well and some butyl rope. still not quite sure how to seal the door off though but i figured butyl rope would play a part in sealing it. also i could use the stuff to seal the factory speaker pod. after this is figured out i guess i will place my order oh and here is a picture of my door panel, sorry i dont have a pic with the factory plastic off but just to give you an idea. if needed i will give you measurements. said vehicle is a 2000 somoma (s10) here is one from google to give you a better idea. Thanks for your time!

Buy the biggest you can afford. Can't go wrong having overkill on your electrical. If you don't have a crimper you could always solder as well.

I don't care if Fi or sundown made the product, I still wouldn't buy it.... Im questioning the purpose, not the maker.