Beandip

I dont believe that much as changed between the old Qs and the new one to make that big of a difference....not 100% sure though but i do have that little card Fi gave me showing sub specs and such back when i bought mine in 2009. i can snap a pic of it if you want.

Little update. Hooked it up to power late last night and played it a tiny bit about 1/8 excursion and no coil rub at all. So got home from work and started breaking it in. Man with that new spider and all it was stiff and took a bit to get It to move. But after a few minutes of play it's sounding like it's old self a lot better sounding than running it on one coil lol. I would have made a video but I ended getting caught up helping my buddy install an a/c condenser in his Tahoe. But for now I thought I would give a little update on the recone. Thanks everyone for all the help and guidance. And thanks Nick for putting up with all my stupid questions lol. If anyone is interested I may write up a detailed how-to on the recone process so people new to this like me can get a good insight. Not sure if there is already one on the forum.

Hopefully it changes for the best. If anything wouldn't a FW coil have more potential motor force since it's more surface area/copper? I know it increases power handling a bit but that is all I know. The motor force thing was just an assumption. Though I was listening to it for a week @1 ohm on only 1 coil, probably forgot what it sounded like already. If anything it's probably a Very small change and really the spider being new would probably change the sound more than anything. The coil former did look the same as Fi though. Im kinda curious to what coil I have.

Just did mine with 30 minute epoxy, from what i can tell from scraping the spider off the basket, the glue Fi uses is "hard" too. gotta wear eye protecting chipping it off lol.

I am sure if you are competing you gotta do what you gotta do, for my simple setup, there is no problem waiting overnight. i was going to anyways since it suggested 8 hours to fully dry. I was even thinking of adding a layer of glue on the edge of the spider for added strength, but i think whats on there is ok. the glue was dry enough to solder the leads and pull the shim out. wasnt as bad as i thought to put them in there to be honest. love this brushed aluminum dust cap. goes well with my engine bay. and there it sits....until tomorrow when i come back from work. i did gently push on the cone and i did not hear or feel any rubbing so i think its a success oh and did find a use for that old cone fits perfectly. Thanks for the help everyone, i will report tomorrow with my results and maybe a video.

Man I learn something every day on here! I had no clue the fumes made it harden. I figured it was the liquid since it's in a hand pump.

Cool, but i used a 2 part epoxy in a syringe, 30 minute handling time. i was going to wait about an hour, (which should be about now) and go ahead and solder the leads and remove the shim afterward and then do the dust cap. its fairly warm in my garage now so that should speed up the drying time quite a bit. I kinda wish i used CA glue from Fi.....i will next time but i was confused on how you would use it with the spray activator. i figured it was after you drop the cone in, but wasnt sure how the glue would dry under the spider if you only spray it on top. but thanks for the insight man. had no idea you guys reconed that quick, or that CA glue dried that fast. oh and i noticed the flatwind coil is only available in the BTL and BL and SSD....so what is it doing on my Q recone? do i basically just have a BL recone?

HAHA WOW im an idiot. sorry about that nick. i looked at them and since they are looped together and i saw 4 loops per side i said 4 X 2 = 8 but anyways yay! my BTQ!!! check out the left side, guess that is where i made my mistake. but the right side shows a different story. i swear i only saw 4 per side. so what do you think about the burnt leads? obviously it was burnt after they broke, but does it look like it was from over excursion from the pop, then when i turned it up finished them off?

updating..... here is my shim holder. perfect! also the notch is so all the shims inside are lined up. i could only fit 3, if i tried 4 it was too tight and really wouldnt fit....so 3 it is. basket is cleaned. used a dremel with a sanding drum to get the surface nice and clean, also rough for the epoxy to grab on to. where i am at now...the gasket is great and lets me know the surround is centered since an edge or two were kinda bent from shipping or laying on its side. just have to wait...patiently...if anything i am worried about the coil rubbing. other than that its going to be a hard wait lol.

Yup, no "BTQ" lol. But that is ok. The holes for the leads are small so I think the 16 leads would just give me trouble unless Fi uses a bigger terminal for the BTL. Its alright though. Not like I paid extra. The leads do look tighter woven then mine. I'll post a pic later, getting this thing done

Alright got the recone in. i didnt get the BTL leads though and the shirt i ordered (from that order mess up) wasnt there. anyways here is the progress so far. FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!! as burnt as they are it must have been real loose??? i have no clue here, i had my amp wired at 2 ohms, pretty crazy though. as even the break is i would think it was from overexcursion from the feedback pops and torn there. if i were to burn them from overpowering i would think they wouldnt be so clean of a "cut" and who knows....maybe just old age you know. oh and they didnt even OHM out at all even after the break, so they must be burnt on the inside too. going to be hanged on the wall as a trophy lol. the surround was a PAIN! spider was cracking and easy, the surround was all rubbery and well it sucked. brushed aluminum dust cap. So is this a flatwind coil? my old Q had round wire as you can see. what does this mean? ? new cone. anyways, that is the only progress so far... i am doing a final cleaning of the spider landing and surround and making my shims. i just need to see how to lay the surround down since its a little deformed from the box.

Recone is on its way! should be here Wednesday as UPS predicts now just need to pick up some loctite 15 minute expoxy and some clamps! oh and a manila folder , saw your post in an old thread about how to do it/cut it up Nick. oh and having it wired at 1 ohm now....i kinda like it...i can actually push the sub till i know its maxing the suspension (haha had to try) but damn my electrical is taking a hit, i can actually bring it down to 12.33~ volts or so to the amp, maybe lower if i tried since i didnt go balls out on that measurement. before was like 13.5 at full tilt wired at 2 ohms. a part of me likes 1 ohm....but the common sense side says hey...more efficient at 2 ohms, amp runs cooler (never got warm before now it gets to 110º with 105º ambient temps) and less electrical strain lol. cant wait to get this done though! for sure i will be documenting this with a ton of pics. :edit: tried looking for the 15 minute epoxy online, cant find it, even on loctite's site. all they have is a 5 minute, and a 60 minute....would the 60 minute work fine and just as good? sure all the difference is the concentration of the activator. the way i see it the actual recone should take less than 5 minutes(the pushing the cone on and clamping part), but wouldnt hurt to have extra time just in case.

^ house wiring is only 10 gauge or so (solid wire) but that runs at 120 volts @ 20 amps. or if you think of a florescent light those use about ~700 volts (think its around this area) or more to get the bulb to light up and its off of even thinner wire.

If anything better. the insulation is rubber and not PVC so the heat resistance is much greater and wont melt like PVC will. the cable isnt as flexible, but you can still tie it in a knot if you wanted to. also with it not being as flexible the strands are tighter i suppose, while its a little harder to bend, its a bit smaller than the standard 1/0 "stereo" cable so its easier to work with as far as routing and fits into the amp terminals easier. by smaller i mean the wires are tightly packed instead of loosely braided to allow "flexibility" this makes the cable a bit smaller on the visual side but it is in fact 1/0. think of it this way, welding cable is designed to be dragged on concrete, stepped on, have showers of sparks thrown at it, laying on hot steel...etc. i know stereo cable cant stand to that. just took some pics you can see the stereo cable is "bigger" You can see the "air" gap on the stereo wire. a looser braid gives more flexibility...but then its just bulky. welding cable is tightly packed strands with a tight jacket. as far as flexibility...good enough

haha thanks a ton man, i feel like I am being a bother. guess i am not used to such customer service

You could go with welding cable for $2.30 or so a foot (depending on your local welding supply) Just a suggestion though.

alright just ordered a recone, some shirts and stickers woot! oh and nick i think i messed up... i had 2 tabs open on firefox when i ordered , apparently one of the shirts didnt make it to the final order as far as order confirmation goes (email i get from Fi)..... yet the paypal amount was for $148.14...the total with that missing shirt included, the email you guys sent me confirming the order but without the shirt says 129.39. Damn...how did i mess this up lol. sorry for the trouble. sent an email to sales@Ficaraudio as well.

wow i forgot to post the completed picture! first, i solved the pop noise i was having with the 125.2 amp. basically i had the remote wire daisy chained and yeah i know i should use a relay but for 2 amps i think i can do it (hardly any draw). anyways, i turn the key on, component amp turns on first, then the sub shortly after. when i turned it off, the sub amp stayed on longer than it usually does, basically the 125.2 was keeping the remote wire alive and kept the sub amp on, then when the sub amp turned off it still made a slight 2 volt pop. what i did was wire a diode in line between the sub amp and the component amp. now power cant flow back though the remote wire! now when the key is turned off, the sub amp instantly shuts down like it used to and the 125.2 LED just fades away quickly. problem solved as promised, the finished pic. i would mount the 125.2 on the other side of the false floor, but i store crap there, like that blue coil is my airline to air up tires, or use air tools (short period of time) and with me having onboard air it would be pointless not to have it. sub still beats pretty good with only one coil @ 1 ohm lol. Going to order a recone but for now the Q still has life until the parts come in. the analog volt meter is to monitor sub voltage. once i set the gain by ear and ran a sweep tone you can basically get the most out of your sub no matter how high/low your source signal is.

Hello everyone. Anyways my stupid question is does jacob send tracking info when shipping an item? If so I suppose my amp hasn't shipped yet. Just curious though. I searched for my old email from when I ordered my 1500d but didn't see it. Also since I made a thread I suppose I'll do a mini build of installing the amp (125.2) on my components. I know everyone likes pics One more thing. It appears the led on my remote gain on my saz-1500 died, is that common or what? Not too concerned since it's just an led but I'd thought i would ask. Going to test the led to confirm later. Anyways thanks everyone and keep up the good work Jacob!

I watched that video last night I figured since it was a "special order" recone it would be handled though PM.

Wow really? I knew I made the right choice going with FI. So will that work fine with the old Q motor being beefier and all? And the leads on the coil roll, I thought those would be coil dependent. Or I am probably confused on the exact part your talking about But I suppose I will send you a pm with all my info/address and just send a paypal your way? With the upgraded leads would the re-cone price be the same? With the beefed up re-cone now you guys are putting more pressure on me not to mess up the re-cone hahaha.

^didnt know about the right angles, I figured it tears because it stretches, not because it tires to fold. I learn something every day here on SSA It could have been from those pops, or from another time in it's life lol. But like I said not sure if I can reach Xmax in such a "small" box with the power i was throwing.

OK guys just took a few pics of the coil for fun. for sure looks like it just popped a lead inside somewhere. for now its just playing on one coil (softly) i can tell the sub sounds more "heavy" or slower moving like this but gotta have something until the recone kit comes in. Tiny tear in the spider. who knows if its related to this incident. i lifted up the cone so you can see the "tear" better. its like one strand of the spider, surprised i even saw it. gotta love the old Qs.

Yeah I did abuse mine quite a bit on "bass I love you" and such. Clamped I was running ~900 watts on a test tone. I just set the gain by ear, the Q let's you know when you have too much power. Though I always kept an analog volt meter on the sub, I could always see how much "power" it was getting no matter how messed up the cd was on the recording level. Kinda hard to explain but basically gave me a visual on how much voltage the sub was getting regardless of the source volume. As far as reaching Xmax I don't think I have yet. At least there isn't marks on the spider. Being in a 2.2 cubic ft box after displacement would make reaching Xmax with 900 watts a bit difficult honestly with the box being on the small side. But hits plenty low and happy with the setup. I just need a re-cone lol.

Yeah I'm over it now but just saying at that moment I was disappointed how it failed "easily". I did however think about the moving parts. Who knows how many times that sub has cycled.