Acidburn

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket. All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it. The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER. In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run. $100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1 Thankfully they didn't do something as stupid as putting the water pump right above a damn optispark... lol, no kiddin'....

does any one here know of a good source for potentiometers? specifically a 0 - 5k ohm one?

Ferdinand!

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket. All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it. The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER. In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run. $100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1 Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it? Hm? a GM LT1 WP is about $150 last I saw I just figured the SouthStar would be more expensive. I would've guessed the same as well.

Jeez Tom, if you insist where do the tips exit?

I certainly would never buy one.... what'd he end up doing about the red anodized carb parts?

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket. All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it. The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER. In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run. $100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1 Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it? Hm? a GM LT1 WP is about $150 last I saw

you got that right, buddy

Nice! and a review! Here is his email verbotten: Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had! All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure! The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal. We're gettin' there!! *** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun :D Glad to hear the TKO was a solid choice How'd that Flowmaster exhaust kit fit? The exhaust fit really well. Super clean. Werd.

they go on the side rather than on top? nifty

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket. All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it. The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER. In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run. $100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

Nice! and a review! Here is his email verbotten: Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had! All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure! The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal. We're gettin' there!! *** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun :D Glad to hear the TKO was a solid choice How'd that Flowmaster exhaust kit fit?

Nice! and a review!

Didn't realize that was a Charger and I know you were making the opposite point. My comment was more on the lines. The older CTS dash doesn't look like a modern car, all hard edges. Even the door arm rests look like 1960. Looks like the 80's to me Mid 50's - Early 60's cars had gorgeous interiors

omghi2u!!1

Tachometer and oil pressure gauge weren't optional I'd have to agree with Jimbo, I'm currently driving the Camaro with only a speedometer it will have a tach, oil pressure, coolant temp, and working fuel gauge with the new engine though

Striking similarities, but yours is metal and the CTS-V is teh plastic. I was actually talking about the newer CTS, there is just a shit-ton of random buttons and crap and fyi, that's not mine, it's a Charger

oh yeah, Sean, what was so terrible about the 335 you drove? (just curious)

what a giant mish mash of shit soo much cleaner:

Congrats!

omghi2u!!1

I'm glad to hear it's better than St Anger, but the first single really doesn't impress me. What was the first single. I've heard about 75% of the album on XM. It's not as good as the older stuff but it's at least listenable unlike St. Anger and that damn ringing in the drums that runs through the whole album. The Day that Never Comes

I'm glad to hear it's better than St Anger, but the first single really doesn't impress me.

where have you been the last year? It's been in the news like a bagillion times. You never heard of that Red Sox fan working at building the new park that buried a red sox jersey under some concrete at the new Yankees stadium to try and curse it? LOL that's special

omghi2u!!1