Acidburn

sounds like my friend he wears just sandals in the Missouri winter

YES! hahah don't shave either

let me know dude

I was thinking of any full size Chevy made from '51 - '96 early 90's M5's are pretty kickass too Considering the whole what its worth though it would be hard to take your choices over the 80k 745 personal value > monetary value I can agree with that, but when you threw the early 90's M5 in there to me that goes out the window 15k versus 80k...even with a large amount of emotional attachment I will take the money. I'm not talking about getting the cars for free. Obviously if they were free and resale was allowed, I'd take the most expensive too

Absolutely.

I was thinking of any full size Chevy made from '51 - '96 early 90's M5's are pretty kickass too Considering the whole what its worth though it would be hard to take your choices over the 80k 745 personal value > monetary value

TOP

old car time I took it in the shorts so the project may be delayed, depends on if I need to sell my car to close on the new house or not. If I do delayed, if not I can at least trade my car for a different one. Near $15k should be a good start 15k should get a really nice driver I don't care if it runs as all the running gear will get ebayed away anyways. Hopefully 4k gets me a body with minimal to no rust and 12k gets me a chassis. Then I can sell my snowmobile and some various toys around to get the drivetrain and start from there. I know where rustless cars reside......

dang, you're catching up to me

I was thinking of any full size Chevy made from '51 - '96 early 90's M5's are pretty kickass too

old car time I took it in the shorts so the project may be delayed, depends on if I need to sell my car to close on the new house or not. If I do delayed, if not I can at least trade my car for a different one. Near $15k should be a good start 15k should get a really nice driver

I can think of a sexier 4dr

old car time

omghi2u!!1

thanks Mark.....

omghi2u!!1

I have to learn everything for a product ops test on Thursday. I got a 95 on the first one but still don't quite understand how... Nope, my parent's '01 Volvo V70 that my dad backed his truck into...amazingly, only the door was damaged and none of the surrounding panels...the truck got a quarter-sized dent and a little scuff on the taillight Do you already have clear or thinner or anything? Almost any 2 stage without having some of it ahead of time will put you over the $100 mark, especially for a non-typical color which Volvo of course will use. Nope... I figure if materials are going to be below $200 it'll be worth it...still puts it under a grand for the whole thing which was my goal starting out...or I go to Plan B and rattle can the whole thing matte black It's weird, the color is almost exactly the same color of Tom's Impy... ooo, that's a good color It looks nice when clean, but as soon as a little bit of dirt gets on it it looks hideous... my baby needs a wash

you need a shirt that says "Yes, I am Steven. No, I won't stop eating babies and pillaging the country side."

I have to learn everything for a product ops test on Thursday. I got a 95 on the first one but still don't quite understand how... Nope, my parent's '01 Volvo V70 that my dad backed his truck into...amazingly, only the door was damaged and none of the surrounding panels...the truck got a quarter-sized dent and a little scuff on the taillight Do you already have clear or thinner or anything? Almost any 2 stage without having some of it ahead of time will put you over the $100 mark, especially for a non-typical color which Volvo of course will use. Nope... I figure if materials are going to be below $200 it'll be worth it...still puts it under a grand for the whole thing which was my goal starting out...or I go to Plan B and rattle can the whole thing matte black It's weird, the color is almost exactly the same color of Tom's Impy... ooo, that's a good color

blue, green, black, yellow, orange

I'd just like to bring up a certain point to the every raging debate whether cone size plays a role in a sub's "quickness." At a certain frequency and excursion, any sub's cone will be traveling the same speed. No argument there. But what about the transitions from rest to that frequency and from one frequency to another? I'm looking at the Force = Mass * Acceleration equation here. If both a large sub and a small sub have the same motor structure, I believe it is safe to assume the force is constant. Therefore, an increase in mass has to lead to a decrease in acceleration. Are these differences in acceleration large enough for us to hear? Am I missing some other part of this? Please discuss.

**gasp** **spooge**

FINALLY, THE 6 ANSWERS WE HAVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR: Q: WHAT ARE THE SMALL BUMPS AROUND A WOMAN'S NIPPLES FOR ? A: It's Braille for " suck here. " Q: WHAT IS AN AUSTRALIAN KISS ? A: It's the same as a French kiss, but " down under. " Q: WHAT DO YOU DO WITH 365 USED CONDOMS ? A: Melt them down , make a tire, and call it a Goodyear. Q: WHY WERE HURRICANES NORMALLY NAMED AFTER WOMEN ? A: Because when they come, they're wild and wet. But when they go, they take your house and car with them. Q: WHY DO GIRLS RUB THEIR EYES WHEN THEY GET UP IN THE MORNING ? A: Because they don't have any balls to scratch... AND: Q: WHAT IS A MAN'S ULTIMATE EMBARASSMENT ? A: Running into a wall with an erection and breaking his nose

there's tubes that glow blue1?!??!

omghi2u!!1