WhiteFiver

A little bit of background first. For the last couple years, I've had a bit of a gut. Not much because I was always working outdoors, but a bit. Last year I took a job working in an office with it's own cafeteria, that I would eat at a lot. Combine that with going through a McDonald's phase, a lot of pepsi and a lot of alcohol, I've gained a fair bit of weight. I'm 5'11", and I weigh somewhere around 220. I've never really been to the gym before, never really worked out. I used to ride my bike a lot and that kept me in shape, but then I got my license and a truck. My sister is getting married in the middle of January, and I'd like to be as healthy/light as possible before then. I have no qualms about getting a gym membership and working out there quite often; in fact, I've been meaning to for quite a while now, but money hasn't allowed it. What are some good ways to accomplish this? I've done some reading around in here, and Chevy350TPI has a lot of good information. Maybe you could drop in and give some pointers?

I have a Sirius satellite radio, that the plug/transformer end of the powercord for it, no longer works. I want to wire it directly into the car. However, the transformer steps the current down to 5.2v/1.5a. My question....based on a system that puts out 14+ volts, what size resister would I need in order to correctly stepdown the power going to the radio? My biggest concern here is frying the radio itself.

It steps it down to 5vDC.

He's only getting ripped off if it doesn't work, or doesn't do as expected. If he pays for it, knowing full well what he's getting, then there's noone to blame but himself if he overpaid. It's easy enough to hop onto Google nowadays and get a price quick.

Is going to roundhouse kick the person above him

Anybody? Or even the calculation for me to figure this out would help.

I'm designing a sub box for a friend of mine here, and I need a bit of help. This is basically how it's going to look: ____ |_/\_| Subs facing in Ports facing trunk. 2 Ports = 2Inches Wide top to bottom Dimensions are Total 34"Wide 20"deep 14"High 3/4 MDF Subs: 2 12" Kicker COMPVX What do I need to get it tuned to 34hz, port wise? If you guys would suggest a different tuning, what hZ value, and what size ports?

A helluva lot of time drawing lines

How about with this design? Depth: 33 1/16" bottom 28" at top 20 degree angle on back of box Width: 34" Hieght: 14" Ports: 2" wide, 11" high, 14" deep Made from 3/4" MDF

CAn you give me a rough idea of the volume of the box?

In this design, I've got the ports at 14" long.

Honestly, I wouldn't buy anything from Jegs, and I'd buy even less from Ground Force. I'd suggest looking at the Belltech lowering kit, part number 615 (no shocks), 615ND (Nitro 2 shocks), or the 615SA (better shocks). That is a 2-3" drop in the front (depending on motor), and a 3" drop in the back.

I've got a leftover system that was in my truck, that I'm going to be putting into my car. I'm not sure what the general opinion on my equipment is, though....I've got a Phoenix Gold Octane R DVC 12" sub, in a ported box right now (tuned to 37hz), and a Audio Systems Twister F4>380 4-channel amp. (http://www.audiosystem-america.com/f4380.html) What are your guys' opinion on this? I'm not sure of the RMS of the sub, so would it be safe to bridge 2 channels for each coil, or should I just run it as a 4-channel amp? If I do that, then I can also use it to power a set of door speakers.

To the OP: Before you do a blowthrough, I would seriously urge you to check out the Sound and Security section at www.s10forum.com. They have a lot of great installs over that, that you can look through for direct on where to go with yours.

What are sine tones?

Sorry....let me clarify. You know how there's certain songs with a really low bass line in it? The sub sounds good on those, but it sounds horrible on the 'higher' sub frequencies. It sounds.....I"m not sure how else to explain it. But I do know at this point that I'll be going sealed in my car. What would be a good tuning frequency to aim for? I listen to a lot of metal, and a fair amount of rock.

Well...a new box design is definitely in order, as this box was built for my truck, but the sub and amp are going in my car. I find that it can hit some really low stuff somewhat decently, but the rest of the frequencies don't sound that good.

The box is about this big: Only difference is, it was made out of 1/2" mdf as opposed to 3/4" mdf

I find it's not too bad sealed, but I didn't like the sound of it ported. Maybe it's just how the box was tuned though. Putting it in a sealed box in my car; maybe that will make a difference. But how's the quality of the sub and amp, from your guys' experience?

Congratz! But.....where's the ear protection?

What kind of cardio did you do?

Giving a shoutout from Mission, BC in Canader. I'm here to learn all I can about car audio, as well as home audio, and hopefully, down the road, be able to pass that knowledge on to other people.

I went down to my local Lordco and picked up a total of 60 feet of red and black wire (40 red, 20 black), 1/0, and got it for about $50.

Not many alternators out there (especially for what looks like a fullsize chevy), put out full voltage at idle. It's very common for the voltage to be reduced while at idle; most alternators put out the most voltage above 1000rpm. Maybe I'm confusing this with amps though...not sure, it's late.