ratten46

Def interested. Just waiting for pre-order into to pe posted! I've been looking for some 8's to run IB, and this should fit the bill nicely.

I don't have any suggestions, but I'm looking for a pair of PG RSD 6.5" woofers (never cared for the tweets). Shoot me a PM if you want to get rid of them.

Sloppy? LOL...that's what my good re-epoxy'd dustcaps look like. I'm sure I've got a "sloppy" one to take a picture of somewhere here for you....

Welcome....we need something more original than "welcome".

I'm looking to upgrade my stock system, just something simple this time. I'm keeping the factory HU, which has pretty good output, and I have a JL 300/4 that will match (needed balanced differential inputs on the amp to match the factory HU). Now, I'm thinking about the speakers. I want to do components in the front, and ignore everything in the back for now. I'll run the setup active using all 4 channels from the 300/4. The car is an 06 Acura TSX, and I'll keep the components in the stock location, which means up to 6.5" woofers in the doors, and tweets on the dash (stock fires into windshield). At this point, all I need to figure out is the speakers. I want to keep it relatively low cost, but I don't plan to add subs or any other amplification at this time, so I need something that will sound good going pretty low @ 75 watts. Also, to keep the separation at a minimum, probably need the tweet to have a fairly low crossover point. In a previous car/install, I had a set of Phonix Gold RS6.5 Components, which I thought the woofer sounded great, but the tweet was too harsh. I would be willing to buy that set just for the woofer if that made sense, then I would need a good tweeter. Any suggestions or experiences to assist?

I had a set of the 6.5 RSD components. The tweets were a bit harsh, especially with the passive crossover. Was much cleaner active. The woofers were very good though. I'm actually considering buying another set just to use the woofers...You can find them for under $70.

I think I already know the answer to this question, but I have to ask just to be 100% sure. Does the SAX 100.4 have balanced differential input? I got a new car, and I don't want to mess with the factory HU - which outputs balanced differential. So, I need an amp that can handle this, or build/buy a converter. I have a SAX 100.4, so if this won't work, what brands DO accept this type of input? So far, I've found the JL Audio and Rockford both have amps with this input. Any others? Anyone have any luck interfacing with the HU on a 1st gen Acura TSX?

Unusual to get no response after 7 hours...does anyone know the answer? Jacob?

Love the car. Sporty ride, holds the road quite well, quattro is a nice bonus. I've done a few engine upgrades (Injectors, intake, reflashed ECU), so gas mileage suffered a little and it will only burn 93 octane :-), but I can still squeeze out MPG in the mid 20's if I try. And don't get me wrong, the stereo is really good for stock. I just always get "the itch" after a while....been driving this for about 9 months now...

I know this is backwards of what most people ask, but I cannot find it documented anywhere. I have limited space, and I'm trying to upgrade my system using the equipment I have sitting in my garage. So, that would have me using 2 channels of my 100.4C bridged - running a single SD-1 10" sub...which is an 8 ohm sub. So, what I'm wondering is how much wattage I will be able to get out this amp at 8 ohms bridged? My guess, based on the published specs, would be in the neighborhood of 200 watts. Just looking for a confirmation of this. Thanks!

Yeah, it's overkill. I agree. I'm hoping to eventually run 2 channels to the front speakers (and upgrade those speakers), but that requires significantly more wiring, and this car is a pain to do wiring in. To replace the stock sub, I only need to add better power from the battery to the trunk. All the other wires (pre-amp, remote turn on) are already part of the stock harness. Just trying to keep it simple for now, and not spend any money.

About 5 months ago, the plate amp built into my Klipsch KSW-10 sub died. A replacement amp was $90, but I wasn't really excited about buying that same (55 Watt) amp again. After dragging my feet and trying to come up with alternative solutions and/or uses for the sub, a brilliant plan hatched where I wouldn't have to spend money. So, here's how I got my sub working again.... ThermalTake Silent PurePower 480W ATX Power Supply (18Amps @ 12Volts) - harvested from an old computer and was sitting in a box in my basement. Rockford Fosgate 200a4 Car Audio Amp (almost old school - circa 1999) - sitting in my garage unused. KSW-10 Sub - with blown plate amp First, I removed my plate amp and rewired it. I cut the AC power cord to prevent someone from plugging it in and removed the speaker leads from the output on the plate amp. I disconnected the speaker level input wires from the terminals, then resoldered the sub leads onto one of the pairs of terminals. Viola! Passive sub ready for amplification. I made the executive decision that I would not need the ATX power supply any time soon (it cost $60 seven years ago and still worked perfectly). So, I opened it up and cut most of the wires coming out of it to about 1 inch length. There were a few wires that needed some attention, so I took care of those specially. The power on leads were given crimp connectors to permanently power on. (There is a hard power switch on the back of the supply, and you will see shortly how I power everything on and off). I left three 12v+ and three ground wires around 2 ft long for my use. The leftover wires (which were mostly 1 inch long) were all capped with heat shrink tubing, then grouped and capped again with heat shrink tubing with zip ties holding everything in place. Put it back together, bundled the 12 volt wires with the nylon loom material that was originally used on the primary 20 pin bundle. Presto! 12 volt DC power supply. Finally, there's the amp. This was the easy part. Connected the 12V+ remote lead directly to the 12V+ battery terminal. Connected the + and - leads from my new power supply to the amp. Connected my sub output from my reciever to the "front" preamps inputs, and bridged the sub to the "front" speaker outputs. The power supply gets plugged into the switched output on my reciever. When I turn on the reciever, the power supply starts up, the amp starts up, and the sub gets power. The power supply isn't perfect...it only delivers 11.5 to 12 volts normally, so I estimate the sub only sees 75 watts of power. But...this is well within the safe operating range for this amplifier. The best part is - this repair only cost me 3 hours of time. Everything I needed was laying around my house. Yeah, I know, I should probably put a fuse (or 3 smaller ones) in the 12V+ lines. I didn't take any pics....and it's all hidden in my HT cabinets now...so I won't be fishing those wires back out just to take pictures. Other than that...any comments or suggestions are welcome.

I missed the presale because I didn't know what I was gonna need (want). Now I'm thinking I want to go active and I need a 50 watt amp with a good crossover built in for tweeters (or maybe just bridge a 50x4 for the mid-bass). But I'm looking around and can't find the sax 50.4 anywhere... Anyone know who is carrying this model? It's not that there aren't other ways to get around this problem...a 125.2 for midbass...a 1000D or 1200D for subs....but I'm trying too look at all of my options (and put the least strain on my wallet / stock electrical).

Along with the steering column on the wrong side...it's no wonder they wanted to replace the head unit....the buttons are in some other language.

Are there any images of the amp rack in its final destination? I assume it's installed in the spare tire well, based on the description? Let us see more. :-) Nice work...and lots of it.

I'm about to install my system, looking around at the stuff I have sitting around, and I started to wonder if there may be a better way to do this. Here's my plan: PG RSd 65 components in Front 2x Sundown SD-1 (the old 8 ohm ones - which creates part of my dilemma) sealed in 1.5^3ft. Sundown SAX-100.4 So, the original plan was simple, run the components off the front channels using the passive XO included with them. Run the subs parallel off the rear channels of the amp. Lots of flexibility with the subsonic filters, bass boost, active XO in the sundown, as well as some basic stuff on my HU. Simple right? Then, I realized I have this old RF 200a4 sitting here unused. On paper, it's 25x4 or 100x2 bridged - in reality, it does more like 45x4 or 160x2. So....how can I make the best use of this equipment? I thought about running the subs from the bridged RF channels, but then remembered the 8 ohm thing. Probably not a good match. I could use 2 of the channels to run the tweeters, giving them a little less power, but I would have to run them through the passive. Or, I could bridge them and run the woofers - again running through the passive - using the HPF on my head unit (63/80/100/125 options). Either way, the other set would be run off the 100.4, using the active XO on that amp. So...are these options worth the hassle or expense of the extra wire, distribution blocks, fuses, etc? Or should I just stick with my original plan until I can buy a better amp to run fully active? Opinions please?

That's kind of where I'm leaning...to avoid headache. But I've never heard a direct comparison between an active and passive system on the same speakers. I'm not sure what I'm missing out on. Does anyone know what the passive crossover frequency is on this component set anyway?

You try to post a reply on the account you opened ... and it tells you you're a noob (even though you don't even remember how long ago you created the account)

Maybe this has already been answered, but I can't find it anywhere...what is the slope on the subsonic on these? Is it different from the older ones? Also, is the remote for gain or bass boost?

For the record - I disagree with my own 2nd post. However, I've been reading this forum for longer than I remember, and I'm a noob according to forum rules. I never had a reason to sign up for an account before. The rules protect us from ourselves, I guess. :-) Thanks for the welcome...I feel like I already know most of the regulars.

So are the manuals that are out on the website for the old revision © or the new revision (D)?

Found it...guess it's here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...=15936&st=0

There's a forum out there somewhere with his install log and pictures from earlier this year. I was just reading through it last weekend, but I cannot seem to find it back now. I believe he made some changes between then and now, but iirc the last post in the log was in May of this year. His equipment was all listed there, I believe.

you only read posts, and rarely contribute...you might be a noob.

I'm new to Sundown equipment, and haven't owned any before. I've read so many wonderful reviews and posts by Jacob, I'm confident that the product will exceed my expectations. However, I have concerns that this will be *too big* (if that's possible). I'm considering the SAX-100.4 for my daily driver (with future uses in mind, of course). This would run my entire system, stereo for front component set (probably high-passed @ 80-100hz), and bridged rear to the sub (low-passed @ 80-100hz). The sub I have probably would hit max excursion before full output of this amp, so gain would probably be set low on the bridged channel, and low on the fronts to match. My prior experience would tell me that this wattage of amp should only draw around 25 amps in daily driver use, but I see this beast has 90 AMPS worth of onboard fuses. My stock alternator is only 90 amps, so I'm concerned that buying this would either overburden my electrical system or I would cause damage to the amp by not having enough current available. My car currently only has 8ga power running to the amp location, haven't done any electrical upgrades. Any feedback or suggestions? I don't want to get into a major upgrade issue with this car, as it's nearly 10 years old. I do want to be able to keep the amp for my next car though...