jellyfish420

i got this from my boss. he said it worked great, but when he went on vacation he unplugged it. (in case of storms) and when he plugged it back in, it didn't work. it was free, i'mma take it to the shop up the road and see what it'll cost to fix. it was free so i couldn't pass it up. the back says 350W. does anyone know anything about it? is it any good? well here's the pics...

i'm thinking of going sealed. it'll be around 2-2.5ft per sub. my question is how much output will i lose? ported only adds 3db, right? will the better sq be worth it? in your opinions? the main reason for the switch is it'll be easier to do than the huge ported and that tc gave me some ideas for a kick@ss fiberglass install

i'm gonna go get some bondo today. everyone is always talking about mixing stuff w/ bondo. what is it? i think its resin. if its resin, do you still use the resin hardener? the bondo hardener? or maybe it was bondo and sawdust?

i know its a bunch of work...but its ok. it'll turn out looking sweet as ever and they're not small sealed, but actually IB. the hole matches up w/ the one in the kick venting it to the inner fender well...

LMFAO...thats the old sub from my HT

and here is a quick spec comparison db extreme--------------------RL-p max 2500w----------------------1200w(?) rms 1000w-----------------------500w fs 38.2--------------------------27.487 vas 2.305ft----------------------5.253ft qms 4.594-----------------------3.728 qes .465-------------------------.508 qts .422--------------------------.447 xmax 14.35mm-----------------24.6 spl 99.9--------------------------89.67 @1watt rec box ported 3.3ft^3--------------------------2.5-3.5 ft^3 27.5in^2 port @ 45Hz----------35in^2 port @ 28Hz sealed N/A-------------------------------1.5-2.5ft^3

here is the impedance graph between the rl-p and the dbx. you think my 1 ohm stable amp will be ok dipping to .75 on occasion?

here is some quick porn. i'll get some better up later..... http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...dbextreme.1.wmv

IMO 1200 would be fine for daily. as long as your not dumb w/ it

try this. that was the SUB from my crappy surround sound. i cut the adapter plate and threw that bish in there till i get mine back.

hell yea!!! 50ft spool of 16ga for the componants did you notice on the second pic on this page. the crappy 5.25 in my driver kick. i had to send one back to RE, and i needed something to put in there. it just sounded so lopsided w/o it

i was feeding mine 750, man i would of loved to give them more

MORE PICS!!! see it don't look that bad : the second pic... i didn't account for the dash coming down that far. so the 3rd, you can see i patched in a piece of material. and now were back in the running. p.s. i did all that cutting w/ a pair of sissors

naw... i'll probably do like 3-4 layers of mat, and i'll hit the glass w/ the da before i even do the filler.

i think it was like $50. it is what was left over from my boss' kids box i did for the 2 RE 8's. he told me i could keep it, cause he didn't know how to fiberglass. what he didn't realize was it was the 2nd UNOPENED gallon. LOL so i got a whole gallon for free. when i do buy it i go to the boat store w/ a gallon bleach bottle and they fill it for $35

chit! i've emailed RE several times about several different things. and i have yet to recieve 1 reply!

got on one layer of matt. notice a couple of stratigicly placed air bubbles they are kinda bridging the gap between wrinkles. the next layer will strengthen the bubble. i'm feelin better now, they're starting to take shape

venting into the carpet is more or less aperiodic and venting into the fender well is more or less IB. i have the RE 6.5 mids. i don't know how they would perform best anyone know?

supa..no its not fleece. the fleece wasn't working for me. thats a curtain :ph34r: no mold of the floor, cause these aren't gonna be on the floor. that is the factory kick panel. i couldn't pull it super tight, actually i left it kinda loose. cause the factory panel is kinda flexible. and if i would of pulled it tight and glassed it. the factory panel would of warped, and i would of never got it back on the car i use 3M spay adhesive. i haven't found anything that works better.

i ran into some problems today. stretching the fleece turned out to be a bit(h!!! i covered it in resin, let it sit for an hour and came back out to check it. it wasn't even drying a little bit. so i mixed up some more resin w/ like 3-4 times as much hardener than needed and painted that over top to harden all of it. i got done, and not even a min later the resin in my cup started boiling! i never seen it do that before. it was kinda cool. anyway, they're not looking to pretty right now, i got a few wrinkles. when the resin was almost dry i tried to pull as many of the wrinkles as i could up to the center of the ring so i could just cut them out. in the second pic you can see where i had to cut the material, and piece it together.

ya i'm using it..sorry i got the fleece wrapped this morning... it was hard as fu(k. i'll have pics later.

i seen it somewhere...i just don't remember where

there won't be any air that leaks around the tweet? do i caulk the tweet in. second question...should i cut a hole in the factory kick panel, as if to vent it into the inner fender, sort of IB...

i'm workin on it :ph34r: i've got a few things already. given the same power...well a little more to the soundstreams, cause they're wired .5ohm vs the rl-p at 1ohm. pros: the soundstreams are louder. the little bit i've heard, the lows have more authority. cons: the basket is wider than the rl-p's. it took me a good 1/2 hour in my hot@ss car w/ a little dremel tool grinding away at my holes so they'd fit. the surrounds are so much taller that i can't listen to them w/ the seats up. the rl-p's i could have them fully excurting and not touch the seat. but the soundstreams touch the seat not moving and unfortunatly i've been moving stuff tonite and had to have the seat up

i don't know about the idmax...but the rl-p doesn't like to be abused as some of my other subs did.