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I'm still looking and agonizing over sub decisions. So many things out there.. I was thinking Fi SSD's, but I want other options as well. Here's what I want: Three 12", 4ohm DVC Good mix of SQ and SPL, with a bit more SPL $250 or less (preferably in the $200 range) Sealed box @ about 1.25cu ft per sub (net displacement) Someone suggested to me the new Hertz HX300's. Has anyone heard these? How do they sound, and how loud can they get?

I want good SQ, but at the same time, I want it to get decently loud.

Here's the setup I'm planning for thus far: Head Unit - Pioneer Premiere DEH-P600UB (need/want the iPod control integrated, like the looks of the unit) Front Stage - Morel Tempo 6 Front Stage Amp - Sundown Audio SAX-125.2 (check SA forum, released on the 21st of Nov.) Sub Stage - Three 12" Fi SSD's Sub Box - Custom box with 1.1cu ft per woofer Sub Amp - Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D Wiring - All Stinger 1/0g, stinger RCAs, stinger distribution blocks, etc... (getting a smokin' deal on stuff from a shop going out of business). Will be upgrading the "Big 3" as well. Not planning on doing a rear stage or swapping in new rear speakers. Maybe I should throw in some matching Morel coax? Could I run them off the Pioneer HU? Or would it be worthless? Will upgrade the battery. Need suggestions. Last time I built a system (several years ago), I just went with an Optima Yellow Top. What do you guys suggest nowadays? Will be also upgrading to a Power Bastards 250A alternator.

Hell yea. Fort Worth area

Well obviously. I could also build an 8 cubic foot box and make it fit. But that's not the whole point of my install I do give you an A+ on your enthusiasm about two 15's though. LOL..

I'm gonna be putting together a daily driver system soon, and want something that pounds, has control, and sounds bad ass doing it.. I have a 2007 Trailblazer SS.... I listen to a lot of death metal, heavy metal, some alternative, some rap, and techno/electronic type music as well.. I've been kicking around the idea of three 12" Image Dynamics IDQ's, or three 12" Alpine Type R's (i know, not the same league), or even three JL 12w6v2's.... I looked at the Fi Q's, and they're nice, but a little more than I wish to spend per sub. The SSD's are a much better option. I put them in WinISD, and much to my suprise, the response is pretty much spot on with the 12w6v2.. So now, I'm thinking three 12" SSD's each in their own chamber with 1.1cu ft net. I'd like to feed them with a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D.. Only problem is, I'd have to run them at either 1.33ohm or 1.5ohm.. This would net them about 400-450wrms each sub. What are you guys' thoughts on this setup? Any other ideas for amps if the SAZ-1500D wouldn't be a good choice? I'll eventually be upgrading my alternator to a 250A unit, but that might not happen at the exact same time as I install everything else. I will be doing the "big 3" upgrade, though. Any help or suggestions are much appreciated!

Yea I've seen their page. They're in TX too, so I'll probably buy the 1500D from them new if I don't find a used one on the cheap. That will minimize shipping damage

Hey that works. the12volt.com has good stuff too.

I just personally think if you're going to spread info around, that you have the correct terms down. Especially if you work at a car audio shop. Sheesh.

What is the range you would LIKE to spend on just the amp? And I might not be completely correct on this, but I THINK bi-amping is where you have a component (not coax) set, and you will power the tweeters off of two channels (one ch. per tweet) and two channels on the mids. My "budget" system isn't so much budget anymore. LOL. I'm looking for the best bang for the buck. Honestly, I think the 3000D would just be a waste, as I wouldn't be using it to it's full potential, you know? The $475 the 1500D costs is a lot to me as well, but I'd be using it more to it's potential, thus, I don't mind paying for it. $500 is about where I'll draw the line for a sub amp.

Of course, JL doesn't have chit on Fi Taking price out of the picture, I don't think I'd make that statement... If you could swing the price without having to sacrifice anything else, I'd probably go with the W6v2s. But the SSDs would be a good option if you didn't want to spend that much, either. I don't see how 400-450W is a problem, personally Thanks Jim. Glad to see that someone else sees price as a factor sometimes. Hell, if I had enough money to buy 3 12w6v2's, I probably wouldn't even be on this forum looking at the less known brands!

Wire each sub in series. Each sub will be at .5 ohm, combined It will be a 1 ohm. Fritos is right, and you're incorrect. Wiring in series, you ADD up the impedance of the coils. Wiring in parallel you divide the impedance.. So he would wire the coils on each sub in series for two 2ohm subs, then wire each sub in parallel for a final 1ohm load on the amplifier. You really shouldn't give out information if you're giving out false information man. Not trying to be a prick, but it can easily confuse n00bs to the audio scene. Damn boy, calm down there, so I mix up the terms. I still know the numbers. Ive always mixed up series and parallel, I have for years now. I cant relate the terms to what whey do. Normally all I say is which way to wire it and not waste my time with the idiotic names for them. You got your way buddy, I won't say series or parallel on here anymore. First of all, I'm not a boy. I'm a goddamn man. Second of all, if you're going to be giving out information, you need to make damn sure you're giving out CORRECT information. Mixing up series and parallel, no matter how harmless it seems, could cause someone to order the wrong things, or mis-wire something and fudge up both their subs and their amps. Didn't I read that you work at a car audio shop? And you still don't know your terms? I feel bad for your boss.

I didn't want to quote three people.... so here goes Jim - You're correct, I didn't mention sound deadening, but I will be sound deadening both front doors, as well as the rear cargo area & hatch of the SUV. I'm not gonna pull out all the carpet and stuff, as I've been down that road, and it's more of a PITA than it's worth. Truck is already very quiet, and has a good bit of dampening from the factory. As far as the bi-amping stuff, I've never gone that route, and not sure what you mean. Maybe you could shoot me a PM and explain it a little further in depth? hondaccord - Sounds cool. Their prices are good. nick_19 - At $900 from SSA shop, it's a lot pricier than I want to spend. Plus I'd probably have to add excess batteries to my truck. I'm only looking to replace the factory battery. Unless you have some other suggestions for some more powerful amps that don't cost an arm and a leg.

Mainly because I want to keep my cargo cover in tact in my trailblazer. 14" is the MAX height under the holder. Therefore, 14" is my max box height. I'm sure you can see the problem in that So I decided 3 12's would be just as loud, and sound great with the various types of music I listen to. And Jysoe, that's a great question. I'd like to know the answer as well.

Why's that? LOL. I've never used them. It's one of the few places I've even found a high output alt for my model of vehicle. The owner of the power bastards came on one of the TBSS forums I visit and told us about their product.

Sorry for assuming buddy. I am on the same boat with bigjon. I thought you meant power master and was giving them another name. My bad man. No biggy. I've been around car audio for 8+ years now. Just been out of the game lately. Still know of all the big name brands though.

That seems to be more of a problem with Sundown amps in a strapped configuration, which I won't be doing.

I meant what I said, Power Bastard, not Powermaster. I know the difference between the two. http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=179 It's hard to find a hi-amp alternator for the 07-08 Trailblazer SS.. The power bastards unit is supposed to be pretty good. chill out buddy.... you asked what i ment.. i told you. I'm not too excited I just said that I know what I meant

I've thought about more power, but I like the price point of the Sundown amps, plus I want matching comp amp and sub amp. Any recommendations for amps that have more power, have nice low prices for the power, and have matching 2 channel and mono channel amps?

I meant what I said, Power Bastard, not Powermaster. I know the difference between the two. http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=179 It's hard to find a hi-amp alternator for the 07-08 Trailblazer SS.. The power bastards unit is supposed to be pretty good.

Hmm. Definitely noted. I'll throw it up in WinISD and see what I can come up with. I went with 1.1 as that's what Fi recommended on a post here in the Technical forum.

I'll be getting the 2ohm DVC subs, wire the two VC on each sub in series for 4ohm, then wire all 3 subs in parallel for a final ~1.34 ohm load on the amp. Wont get 100% of the potential out of it, but with 3 12's should get plenty loud, and sound great doing it. And wtf is with the master* comment above your post?

Copper is copper as far as energy capacity.. "Good" wire usually indicates that it's very flexible, very easy to work with, and easy to cut. The higher the strand count of the copper, the more flexible it typically is. The lesser number and ticker the strands are, the more stiff and harder to work with the wire is.

Wire each sub in series. Each sub will be at .5 ohm, combined It will be a 1 ohm. Fritos is right, and you're incorrect. Wiring in series, you ADD up the impedance of the coils. Wiring in parallel you divide the impedance.. So he would wire the coils on each sub in series for two 2ohm subs, then wire each sub in parallel for a final 1ohm load on the amplifier. You really shouldn't give out information if you're giving out false information man. Not trying to be a prick, but it can easily confuse n00bs to the audio scene.

You're making it hard for me to decide man! I'm assuming the power output is 125wrms x 2 @ 4ohm? How long is this presale going to go on? Any bigger sub amps in the works? SAZ-2000D perhaps?