BigCProductions99

...Corvette...That's Different. Sounds Like You Don't Want Full On Sound Quality, I'd Make Some Serious Front Stage Improvements Either Way. I Vote BL's, You Don't Need Something To Ruin Your Little Investment There, Lol. Piss On Dynamat, Unless It's Xtreme, But Even Then I'd Rather Go With Second Skin Damplifier Pro Or RAAM. Fyi: Best Driver Is Subjective, We Can't Tell What You Like, And It'll Be Hard For You To Tell If You've Never Heard Them In Person. Highly Doubt You Wanna Run 6kw In A Vette Though. Your Sound Will Not Be Distorted Either If Your Amp/Headunit Is Set Correctly And You Don't Slap Them In A Fart-box.

Who The Hell Keeps Negatively Voting On Random Shit That Actually Is Relevant?

www.woofersetc.com www.parts-express.com www.madisound.com

Or You Can Just Get An Xcon....Right?

I'll Go Dig Up The 20 Year Old Stillwater Designs "Kicker" 10"s. Lol

I Didn't See Any Of You Bastards Here Today, Better Come And Bring It Tomorrow. Andrew Was Out With His 24kw Sundown Power On 4 RD Super Heavyweights, And David Gill With His DD Honda Civic. Only Vehicles I Saw There That Were Worth It, Saw A HAT Demo Truck There Too.

Just Because It Reccommends That Amount Of Space Doesn't Mean You Need To Run It At That, Especially With A Crapfonics Bootus. Like I Was Saying, A Box That Small Is For Something That Is Used Mostly Or Only For SPL Applications. (Competition Only.) I Run Mine In 7.2 Cubic Feet After All Displacements, Because I'm Running 4kw To It, If I Was Running Less Power I Would Have Made The Box Bigger, More Power, Smaller. I Say Go With Performance Over Looks, But It's Up To You. A 15" In An Optimal Box Will Always Outdo An 18" In A Constrained One. Bigger Is Only Better When You Have The Electrical And Space To Back It Up, Bar None. I Actually Think You'd Do Better With Something Like BL's, Again, It's All Your Decision. I'd Do The Electrical Beef-up Way Before You Even Think Of Installing Anything Else. The Subwoofer And Everything That Goes Alog With It At This Point Should Be The Last Thing You're Thinking About. jay-cee, You Da Man, Wish We Had More Helpful Folks Around Here Like You. Bring Your Ass To Turkey Drag Tomorrow.

It's Not A Good Idea To Use Seperate Amps On Each Coil, Much Less Two Different Ones. And 5 Cubes Is Not Enough For A 18" BTL, Unless You're Running Around 6kw To One, Lol. Edit: I'd Reccommend Getting A D2 15" And Getting A SAZ-2000D. I Would Say A 3500D, But I Don't Know If You Have The Budget For The Amp And The Amount Of Electrical Beef You Would Need, Much Less The Experience To Run That Amount Of Power To One.

Ah, Didn't Catch The Fact That It Would Be Sealed Off Completely From One Another.

Sorry Nick, Lol.

I Don't Know, But It Already Sounds Like A IA Warden 21" Would Be Better.

....The Word Cancellation Comes To Mind. Lol.

What Drivers?

Seems Like It Should, Just Be Careful With That Stuff.

x2. Rather Use Aluminum Roof Flashing Or Something Of The Like. Chrome Spray Paint Is Really Dull, Every Kind That I've Come Across Anyway.

Titebond II. I Let Them Both Cure For 3 Days.

......

I've Seen That Done, That Should Be Fine, I Just Run A Bead Of Wood Glue Or If I Have It On Hand, Caulk. Of Course I Paint My Enclosures, I Hate Carpet For Some Reason. So, Lots Of Sanding.

I Was Gonna Say You Could Weld A Frame In. You'll Have To Build A Frame Either Way, For The Plexi Method Use MDF. There Are Other Ways Though.

Because They're Incabable Of Running That Impedance, And It's Also A Marketing Ploy. Sundown Rates Their Amps At 1, 2 And 4 Ohms. I Believe I've Heard Scott Say They Can Take 2000 Rms Fully Loaded, Clean Power. Ran Around 1850 Rms To My Old One All Day. (Old Mag Style.) Just Get A SAZ-1500D And Wire It At 1 Ohm. Same Amp I Had On Mine. Edit: Get A D2 And Run It At 1 Ohm. If They Weren't Meant To Run At One Ohm, Most People Wouldn't Be Doing It. I've Seen Plenty Of People Including Myself Run Sundown Amps Or Other Amps At .5 Ohm And Even .25 Ohm, I Don't Reccommend The Latter If You Aren't Experienced Or Aren't A Competitor Wanting To Squeeze Everything You Can Out Of It. (Damn Forum Went Down For A Sec When I Was Editing, Bastards! )

Motor Structure, Look For One On Google Image Search And Then Look At The One On Fi's Website.

Wish I Had The Program Pete Has And Your Specific Car Dimensions And Acoustics, I'd Be Able To Figure It Out. But It's All Trial And Error, We All Do It. I Agree With jay-cee, You're Probably Asking Too Much From A Woofer Which Is Made For Output Rather Than Being A Low End Monster Like The Q, I Also Agree With The Statement About The Xcon.

If You Want To Be Cheap You Could Do The Whole Riveted Plexiglass With Rubber Weatherstripping And Superglue Or Silicone Thing, Can Get A Little Messy Though. Of Course You May Not Have The Room For It. You Plan On Making It Permenent?

I listen to alot of chopped and screwed music. Any particular brand you like? Titebond. Particualrly Titebond II, Just Like Everyone Else Will Tell You. I've Seen People Use Liquid Nails And Tried It Myself Once Just To See If It Was As Good As People Say. Sledgehammer To The Box Don't Lie, It Came Loose At The Joints, If You Use Wood Glue (Titebond), The Wood Itself Will Break Before The Joint Ever Will. Just Made Some Little 12"x12"x12" Cubes For The Test, Fun Little Experiment, Should've Videoed It. I'm Not Saying It's Not Good For What It's Intented For, Just Not Really Effective In This Environment, As Sean Said.

Nice Explanation. It's Like Sex. Lol.