BigCProductions99

Port And Sub To The Rear (General Cabin Gain Rule In Trunk Cars), You're Not Going For SQ Unless You Want To Mount A Console Enclosure Right Next To You Or Infront Of You. Edit: Some People Have Skewed Views Of What A SQ Setup Is. Multiple Drivers And Kilowatts Aren't SQ, You Just Don't Want Them To Sound Like Shit Or Off Axis. You Want A "Daily" Setup.

....Must've Read The Date Wrong, Could've Sworn This Popped Up In Recent Topics. Whoops.

2 Fi Q 12"s And A SAZ-2000D In The Proper Ported Enclosure Will Probably Blow Anything You've Ever Heard Away In Terms Of Audible Loudness Or Sound Quality. That's My 2 Cents. I'd Do The Big 3, 1/0, All That Crap, HO Alt, Batts, You Know The Drill. I Like Rainbow Components Personally, But That's Me. I'd Recommend Another Sundown Amp For That, The SAX-100.4

Cleaner Signal Due To Not Being Buffered In A Passive Crossover, Plus The Things jay-cee Said, Total User Control. Which Means Higher Chance Of Screwing Something Up But Greater Reward If Done Properly, As It Always Should.

Look At The Power Supplies On That Sumbitch....That's Like Sex.

Good Lord...I Get 4x8 Sheets Of MDF For $8.25 A Sheet, Trupan For $13.50 ...You'd Hate Me If I Told You What I Can Get 3/4" Plexi For. Lol.

Just Type His Name Into The Search Bar On The Forums. I'd Go For A Different Driver/Port Axis Than That In That Car, Did An Install In A Probe Before For A Friend Of Mine, Sub Up Port Rear Worked Very Well.

By The Way, Robin. I Need Some Of That There CA Glue And Accelerator.

Icons ftmfw.

....You Realize How Old This Thread Is?

...2.5 - 3 Cubes Ain't Gonna Work Too Well For That 15" BTL. Have To Compromise One Way Or Another, 12" Or Less Cargo Room. You Could Also Do A Dual Battery Conversion In The Engine Bay.... (See, Improvisation, Bitches.)

What Amplifier Are You Using? 12-16 Sq. In. Of Port Area Per Cubic Feet Of Volume. Your Enclosure Should Be Between 6 Cubes - 9 Cubes Depending On Power. When We Get This Information We Can Give You An Estimate. Yes, Your Port Can Be On The Same Side As The Driver, Depending On Vehicle Or Preference, You Can Have The Driver Upfire And Vent Firing Rearward. (SUV's, etc.) I Forget The Rule On Driver Placement As Far As Being Away From The Port, But In The Middle Of The Baffle Is Fine. (For The Port And Driver Being On The Same Side.) Also, What Vehicle? I'm Sure A Few Members On Here Can Design You A Box, Ask Shizzon. Or You Could Got To PWK's Site. Be Careful With That RE Calc, That Thing's Done Some Iffy Things In The Past.

SQ is an install parameter more than a driver parameter and in his install it really won't matter. Considering the OP's goals I would really recommend the BL and not the Q. x2, But The OP Will Probably Be Satisfied With Anything That Is Sold Here. He May Be Suprised At The Rl-i 8"s, Knowing His Mainstream Background. I Vote Ported Alignment On Any Driver You Choose, I Don't Think You Want Sealed, You Just Think You Do. I Vote BL, But It's Up To You.

Get a 6-pack of Funky Pup 15"s and do a wall, then take them bastards to Finals in 2012. That's the reason it happens, the world will implode from the mad deeeebeeez yo. ....But seriously, IA 187's dude. Or a single Mach5 IXL 10...with a funky pup dust cap. :)

........Highly doubt it, unless you burp the damn thing at 3kw and shoot the soft parts through the back glass, which ain't gonna happen. .....Or is it?

One or two? Gain that damn kicker amp down if you only run one. IMO, there's really not a reason to used sealed boxes, unless of course space is at a super premium. Remember the days when SQ cars always ran sealed? Not that way anymore, and the gain in output is a definite plus. Only bad thing is, you go ported, that amp I believe has one of them there factory set SSF's. If you set your amplifier and headunit correctly, you won't have to worry about distortion, make sure your RCA's are as far away from the power cable as possible. Speakers are dumb, they only do what we tell them to do. .......... Big random jumbled up paragraph. lol Oh, you can try sealed, but i'd build a test box out of MDF to see if you like it before you drop $ in a fiberglass enclosure, i'd build a ported one also.

I'd personally just get a high powered component set and forget the rears. Build you a box too, don't throw no damn Fi in a prefab. pucking PS3 controller typing sucks.....

Veteran equipment for a mostly mainstream consumer, I love these. I'll offer my advice tomorrow, PS3's suck at typing.

Right Here At SSA, Or www.db-r.com

$3, Couldn't Really Pass It Up. Lol. I'll Try To Figure Shipping On That, If Not Though, I'll Have A Nice Youtube Vid Up. Oh, Just Uploaded A Vid Of Andrew's 24,000 Watt Truck, 3 RD SHW 18"s And 6 Sundown SAZ-3500d's. Check That Out. Lol. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay Off pucking Topic..... Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

You Wanna Split 'Em With Me If He Does?

I Wouldn't Enclose The Amps Either...There's This Thing Called Heat. Unless You Were To Use Fans In Push/Pull Configuration.

It's True Though, I Hate Maxxsonics. Hell, I've Got An Old Crunch PZI-1000.1 I'll Give Away For Just The Shipping Price If Anyone Wants It, Otherwise I'll Burn It.

I'd Get A Refurbed SAZ-3000D Or A SAZ-3500 And Just Set The Gains Correctly. I Remember Scott Saying They Can Handle 2krms Fully Loaded, (If I Were You, I Wouldn't, Gain Down Just A Tad.) I Had Roughly 1850 Watts RMS To Mine With The SAZ-1500D, All Day. (Old Version, Too.) If That Guy Reccommends A Hifonics Amp To You, Drop Him Like A Steaming Sack Of Shit. If You're Running A Little On The Small Side As Far As The Enclosure Goes, You Can Use That Extra Power. (Which I Believe You Will.)

What is your budget, what amps are you getting ifyou dont have any? What electrical upgrades will you do if any? The sound of the sub will come from the box and has nothing to do with the sub itself, it does what you tell it to in the environment you have it in. x2 (Haha, I Beat You.) Lmao.