BigCProductions99

Recone The BTL's To 18"s? Either That Or Get One IA Warden.

...Or Just Send Them In For A Recone To 18".

I Wouldn't Suggest That Amp Either. Dual 2 Ohm BTL And A Sundown SAZ-2000D Sounds Nice. (And I Doubt You Want To Pay Shipping For A BTL AND A Box.) You Can't Spend An Hour A Day Working On A Box?

...Highly Doubt They Make A Recone Kit That Would Work In That Driver.

If You Don't Want Them Whenever You Get A More SPL Oriented Driver Or Drivers, I'd Like One Of Them For My SQ Car. I'd Look Around For Better Than Kicker Products, Though. (Like The Brands On This Forum, For Example.)

Screams Mach 5 IXL 15"s To Me.

I Don't Give A Fuck If People Give Me Shit For Saying This, But That Is One Barftastic Ricer. Sony Xplod And Wing....Bet That Gives Him 50 More Hp. Lmao (True Story, I Was Listening To A Ricer In A Stock Ass Black Hyundai With The Hyundai Decals Across The Hood With Sony And Kicker Decals All Over His Back Windshield Say His 180 Horsepower "Stock" Car Made 50 More Horsepower With A New Air Filter, Not A Cold Air Kit, A Cat-Back Exhaust, RIMS, And Cheap Ass Autolite Plug Wires That Were Made For A V8. He Also Said He Could Beat Any Domestic At The Strip That Night... I Proved Him Wrong....The 9 Seconds Faster Kind.)

Gonna Resurrect An Old Thread And Say This.... You Gotsta Bang That Screw, Mayne. I've Got A Shit Load Of Old S.U.C Stuff That I SLOWED Myself, (It Ain't Screwed If Screw Ain't Do It.) If I'm Ever Allowed Over To Get My Truck Metered I'll Show You What A Redneck Honky Can Do On The Tables.

I Didn't Get To See His "Definining Moment" Post. arsehos.

A Digital Multimeter And A Voltmeter Are Two Different Things. Lol. How Did You Set Your Amp Up Without One, Anyway? (Or Correctly, I Should Say.)

I Know It's Not About A Name, It's About Build Quality And Woofer Per Dollar, Which Is Something Kicker Doesn't Like To Employ In Their Engineering. You Could Do Extremely Better With A Single Driver Or Two Driver Setup With The Brands On This Forum, For Much Less Than You'd Spend Anywhere Else To Get A "Similar" Setup. All In All, We're Trying To Help You Get Out Of The World Of Mainstream Audio And Into The Realm Where The Big Boys Play. Edit: Two Xcon 15"s Will Most Likely Blow Those Kickers Back To The Assembly Line, And Sound MUCH Better Doing It. 8.5 - 9.5 CuFt @ 31 Hz Sounds Good. They Are Also Rated Conservatively At 1750 Watts RMS.

MDF Is Already An Acoustically Dead Material, That's Why We Use It For Enclosures.

Either The RE, Or An Ascendant Audio Assassin Or Fi X If Scott Still Has Any. Just Stay Away From Elemental Designs, And I'm Sure Most Everybody Here Will Tell You That, Too.

www.reboxcalc.com <--- Use That For A Rough Estimate, That Calculator Can Come Up With Strange Shit Sometimes, Though. Edit: With That Much Power, A Smaller Medium Sized Box Would Probably Be Optimal.

Just Asking, Why Dual 1, Especially When You Don't Know What Amp You're Gonna Use? (This Isn't A Smartass Question, As Much Is It May Sound Like One.) And As Any Car Audio Enthusiast Should, You Need To Learn How To Build A Box. Oh, And Welcome To SSA.

The Fi X Was And Is The Predecessor To The AA Assassin.

I Don't Really Hate Ford As A Whole, Just Alot Of Their Vehicles. I Also Never Buy A Truck Or Car Made After The Mid 90's, Long Before The Buyout Days, I Like Older Vehicles. It Wasn't Meant To Be An Actual "Knock", More Like A Humorous Statement. And Take A Look At My Sig. Damn People Can't Take A Joke These Days. Edit: It's Also Funny How A Guy With A Chevrolet Product Is Actually Saying That To Me. And I Also Hate GM For The Position They Put Themselves In And The Craptastic Vehicles They Produce Today, I Won't Be Buying Any Of Their "New" Products Ever.

...Stay Away From Pro Comp And Fabtech, They're Like The Best-Buy Specials Of The Car Audio World. As Big Jay Said, 4WheelParts.com Is Basically The Only Site I'd Use For Products If I Had To Get Them Online. You May Want To Figure Shipping Into Account On Tires, That Can Bite You In The Ass, Bigtime. What Size Were You Planning And How Much Of A Lift, Is This For Actual Performance Or For Mostly Looks (I Reckon The Rather As It's An '03.) Only Do A Body Lift If You Want The Aesthetics Of A Lift, But Keep In Mind All Kinds Of Linkages, Brake Lines, And Electrical Wires Will Probably Suffer Because Of It. (I Have A '87 Jimmy With A 4 Inch Suspension And 3 Inch Body Lift On 37" Iroks, I Used To Have 38.5x11x15 Boggers On It. When I Did My Body Lift, I Had To Lengthen My Transmission Linkage Because It Wouldn't Go All The Way Down Into First Gear Anymore) It Throws The Whole Geometry Off Of A Vehicle, Especially Steering. I Really Can't Recommend A Kit Because I Don't Deal In Independant Front Suspension Vehicles, If It Ain't A Solid Axle, It Ain't A Four Wheel Drive In My Opinion. I Bet You Only Really Want A Body Lift, Because An Avalanche Really Has No Place Offroad, Makes Me Think Of Four Wheeler's "Raisin" Avalanche.

A Redtop Up Front And A Powermaster D2700 Or D3100 Should Do The Trick, You Would Have Plenty Of Reserve With That Starting/Aux Combo.

Meh, Fuck It. Maybe I'll Try To Type In Normal Sentence Case Sometime. It's An Old Habit Of Mine From Like 8 Years Ago When My Spacebar Broke, And I Type Way Freaking Faster This Way, Somehow With Only Two Fingers Going To Keys. Odd.

...2000 Watts RMS x 1 @ 1 Ohm = 1000 Watts RMS Each Driver, And The BTL's Don't Even Wake Up Until 2.5k. Wake up? Whatever. Still Fi's loudest sub even if in the comparison between them all you only give each one 100w. You surely don't "need" 2500 watts, not even close. You're Also SQ Biased, And I Know You're Gonna Find A Way To Make That Irrelevant. (In Fact, Kinda Is.) I Don't Know What I Did To Offend You Or Make You Hate Me, But Whatever It Is, I'm Sorry. Just Trying To Get The OP To Get The Most Out Of His Equipment, And It Was Just A Statement, Not That He Should Actually Run 2.5kw To Each Driver.

Yeah, You Could Probably Get Away With Just A Powermaster D5100 Up Front. Look On The SSA Store.

...And That's What You Post When You Don't Realize There's A Second Damn Page And Just Asking, Is It Okay To Have Your Auxillary Battery And Amps Grounded To A 1/4" Thick Plate Bolted To A MDF Amp Rack? Because I Was Wanting To Try That. Amp Rack Is The Shape Of A Piece Of Channel Iron, Basically, A Shallow "U".

Most Likely, That Amp Is F**ked. Either That, Or You Need To Do A Bench Test To See If It Still Hisses.