BigCProductions99

And When I Say Horn Tweeters, I Mean Horn-Loaded Soft Domes, Not The Typical Phenolic Ones With Flares.

Just A Tad Large, Should Be Fine With The Right Amount Of Power.

It is NOT acoustically dead. Tap on your box once and listen to it resonate and realize how ridiculous a statement that was. To the OP however, it really depends on your goals. There are plenty of useful absorbers that can be used in a box but without understanding your reasoning or knowing what exactly your box is it is dubious to even answer. If I could guess by assuming your goals I'd say you don't need it. Hmm. I Was Under The Impression That It Was The Deadest Material For That Purpose.

Probably Around 9.5 Cubic Feet Per Chamber.

Sundown SAZ-2000D. Great Amp For A Beginner Such As Yourself. Get A Powermaster/XS Power D2700 Or D3100 For An Auxillary Battery, Keep Your Starting Battery Or Get An Optima. Find An H/O Alt That's Rated At Least 150 Amps. That Should Keep You In Good Working Order.

Why Don't You Contact Nick About A Recone And See How Much It Would Cost, First. [email protected] There's Alot Of People That Would Like To Get Their Hands On That Sub, For A Damn Good Reason. I'll Never Sell My Three Slug BTL Motor, Never.

I Only Use Remote Gain Knobs, And Shizzon Is Exactly Right On Their Premise. If The Gain Is Set At A Certain Point On The Amp, The Full Crank On The Gain Knob Is Going To Be That Specific Point. I've Never Used Bass Boost, With Or Without A Knob.

Either Set Would Do, I Know Some People That Run The Kicker Component Set And They Aren't Bad For That Price. It Depends On How You Wire It, You Can Get A 4 Ohm Or A 2 Ohm Load Presented To The Amp. Now The Problem Is Finding That Amp. Because A Sundown SAX-50.4 Is Around $205 - $215.

I Say Icons At 31hz.

Damn, Don't See Much Of Those Anymore. It Was Probably Clipped All To Shit, That And Excessive Tinsel Slap. A Recone Should Do It, It Won't Be That Expensive.

Just Get A Dual 2 And Wire It To 4 Ohms, That Way You Don't Waste Your Money On Having To Get It Sent Back And Reconed. You Can Live With A Little Less Output. And The Real Problem With The Part About Picking Up A Box In That Focus, It Probably Won't Fit, Unless It's A Hatch. Lmao. I Thought You Were Asking About A Q? You Could Live With Around 600 Watts Of Power On That Thing For Now, I've Seen Some On About The Same Get Loud For That Amount Of Power. Edit: I Still Have My Old Fully Loaded 3-Slug Old Version BTL Motor...But I Doubt You Want Just The Motor. I Turned The Basket Into A Barstool. Lmao.

....An Xcon? Edit: Nvm, He May Be Switching To An Xcon, I Didn't Read That Part. I'd Still Just Get The 1500D And Gain It Down.

I Was Going To Say The Same Thing When I First Saw It.

Horn Tweeters Are Used To Control Dispersion, And Have Higher Efficiency Due To High Impedence Of The Driver Itself, And The Lower Impedence Of The Air. IMO, I Love Them. Most Every One Of My Tweeters Have Been Horn Or Some Sort Of "Pro Audio" Soft Dome. www.madisound.com

What Drivers, Might I Ask?

I Agree With John, But It's Kinda Silly Not To Go 1 Ohm With A Dual 2 Driver Instead Of Paying More To Do It The Hard Way With A Dual 1. I Say Be Different Than Most People Where You Are.

I Think I Know The Answer. Check Your Grounds, Every One Of Them. (Battery And Alternator Too.) Check The Terminals On Your Amp, Sub And Headunit. There Is No Other Reason You Should Be Having This Problem, Unless The Amp Is Wired Or Set Up Incorrectly.

What Amp Were You Thinking Of, Not Many Good 4 Channels That Cost Less Than $220. Ditch The Rears Completely, You'd Be Amazed How Loud And Clear You Can Get On Only 4 Drivers. Do You Want To Run Pro Audio Equipment Or Normal 6.5" Woofers? Active Mach 5 Audio MLI-6.5"s Come To Mind With Some Seas, Morel, Or Vifa Tweets.

It's Probably Going To Be A Power Based Class Or A 139.9. Is This A Burp Comp Or Bass Race?

It Could Be Sufficient Enough To Stop Damage, But I've Never Used Either Product So I Can't Really Tell You. All These People Talking About This And The Threads On It Are Seriously Making Me Happy I Don't Have A Trunk Car For Any Car Audio Application.

Read My Post To Your Question In The BL And Q Comparision Forum. 1300 Watts RMS Conservatively With BP Power.

Welcome To SSA.

I'd Probably Go With One 15" In Your Situation, It's Going To Get A Bit Expensive Power And Electrical Wise. Space Probably Isn't Optimal For An 18", And You Probably Don't Want To Drop A Shitload Of Money Into Your Electrical System And Buying The Amps Needed For Full Potential, So I Say This Is Good Middle Ground.

Probably 1300 Watts RMS Conservatively With BP Power, Mine Complained A Little On An SAZ-1500D When I Had It In My Truck. I Think It's A Bit Safer In My H/T Application Now.

Is This A Bass Boost Knob, Or A Gain Knob? Edit: If It's Bass Boost, You Should Keep That Off At All Times And Not Even Install The Knob.