ncacoates

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference. Sorry jay-cee your incorrect. lower ohm load = a higher strain on your electrical system. you loose efficiency as the ohm load goes down there fore your amplifier requires more amperage. Its solely dependent on the amp if you can run it at .5ohms some can some cant. In my opinion i wouldn't run an amp below rated specs unless your aware of the the harm you can do and willing to live with the out come. For a daily situation you'll be far better off at 1ohm and that would be the best advice i can give you.

I gotta agree with Tirefryr on the past few posts. Im right there with him.

if you baby the gain and check voltage at the amp with a volt meter i don't see a problem. i just don't recommend running it full tilt but if you wanna listen to it at low level i don't see a problem.

so where are the updates... slacker.........

check the website they will post the specs on there. If not you can always call they will tell you what works best.

didnt know that haha

Good job man. If its for a daily driver your doing good. Im in the same ball park just a little higher but take into account mines tune at 30hz and peaks at 43hz

leave it at 0 which should be turned all the way to the left. also leave the bass boost off.

my cab hits the bed of the truck while it's playing--I'm going to make a rubber "gasket" to keep it from touching.. not to mention that the topper is getting smacked as well.. there's no paint left where the topper is close to the cab... just get the baffle sealed off from the rear of the truck and you shouldn't have any issues... ouch that's no fun... iv got a sneaking suspicion my sun roof may start leaking soon i feel your pain.

Hes correct. Its a good idea to top off all batteries every once in awhile to keep them all it tip top shape.

If they are both agm your good to go if not you'll have to disconnect it to properly charge the AGM.

well ain't you a smart one

If your looking for lows he is correct. Now if you want the most output 3FT^3 each and a tuning around 35-40 will be your best bet.

smart man id try his fixes first

trust me i want to.. but i'd rather be safe than sorry i guess idk... plus i thought it'll put out 2000 no matter where the gain is? it's just matching the gain to the HU's gains or whatever.. something like that correct me if i'm misunderstood please i have a day off tomorrow,, so lemme know Its there to match gain you are correct. Just hook a DMM up at the amp and turn it up and watch the voltage. Just set it so voltage stays above 12 with consistent bass.

If your back batteries are connected in parallel just charge them that way. Make sure you do a slow charge so the can both evenly charge all the way. oh and if they are disconnected by a solenoid don't worry about anything as long as the positive is not connected your good to go.

From my experience its when your head units outputs are starting to go bad but there are other possible problems im sure i haven't herd of. Get yourself a remote turn on delay should solve the problem.

Happened last night, with about 4 hours of work. It feels pretty sturdy but I will find out when I put the woofers in. All I'm worried about is the back wall.......... BTW not trying to steal you thread rushrun Why not get some all thread and go from front to back? Oh and how thick did you make the back wall? I don't need to really. It's double layer 3/4" MDF all the way around. Resin all over the inside. It's it VERY srtong. The box won't flex AT ALL I mean the back wall of my truck hah I see i see. i think you should be ok... i think

If you get this info we can all help better.

Happened last night, with about 4 hours of work. It feels pretty sturdy but I will find out when I put the woofers in. All I'm worried about is the back wall.......... BTW not trying to steal you thread rushrun Why not get some all thread and go from front to back? Oh and how thick did you make the back wall?

wish you fellas could see/hear in person.. nothing like 150db in the 26-33hz range *it's over 150 on all those freqs* Too bad that has to change to be competitive.. Fun while it lasted... nothing like playing a full 20 hz track with no issues Didn't get it swapped today, ended up watching the nephews instead... they're playing wii at the moment... gotta go guard my TV.. Id love to hear it in person. Mine starts to unload down in the 20s =[ so i cant really do much in that range. you best watch that tv though iv seen plenty of people send them controllers threw the tv before.

wish you fellas could see/hear in person.. nothing like 150db in the 26-33hz range *it's over 150 on all those freqs* Too bad that has to change to be competitive.. Fun while it lasted... nothing like playing a full 20 hz track with no issues Didn't get it swapped today, ended up watching the nephews instead... they're playing wii at the moment... gotta go guard my TV.. Id love to hear it in person. Mine starts to unload down in the 20s =[ so i cant really do much in that range. you best watch that tv though iv seen plenty of people send them controllers threw the tv before.

yeah lol sure would

yeah UTI and NTI are the same other than some have different electives

Believe me they get damn loud on 1500wrms each. I don't see a huge gain doubling there rms and i dont feel its worth killing your driver.