wizz
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Yes, that is something I am trying to convince myself of. Thought of filming the inside of the car in order for you to see how the trunk looks like from driver seat POV, I honestly hope it is an acoustic issue and maybe there is hope still... I remember the very first time I got in this car, everything felt claustrophobic, it has that small rear window, me used to open space in the rear like in the Peugeot 206.
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Kia Rio 2016 European version hatchback Coupe
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Thank you for your feedback I appreciate it! I thought of calling the dealer to ask them if this car has such technology but I don't think that would be the best idea. Maybe I'll share this with the audio technician next week. There is little to no info online regarding this ANC on this car, otherwise I would've ripped it apart.
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I keep finding new info. Like I recently stumbled upon Active Noise Cancellation. COuld this be the culprit? https://www.kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/ActiveNoiseCanceling.pdf
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Tirefryr you were right I still experience attenuations/cancellations. I even went ahead and put the RCA for the sub in the REAR preout of the radio. It seems it plays clearer, now that there is only one LPF active (amp's LPF), on the HU for the REAR is set to Pass. I don't like the fact this amp from JL doesn't have a switch to Pass the whole signal, or Pioneer 80PRS for the same reason. If one buys the 80PRS, he must know that there is no way to turn off the LPF for the sub in its settings. How is it possible for a car to be such AGAINST everything related to a decent audio experience? I have never imagined that that could be such a pain in the a**. I even went today to a professional, tried explaining, and he said it may also be the box in which the sub resides. So we scheduled a meeting because he was very busy. All of them are busy, even in this period of time. He listened to it for a while and noticed how bad it sounds lol. He asked me questions I tried everything he suggested already. So then we have a meeting on the 30th this month. I have never imagined that car audio could generate such amount of frustration lol.
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I just recently thought about something. So my first setup consisted of Kole Audio qx620 (reproduces 360 W bridged @ 4 Ohm) for my former awesome subwoofer (SPL Dynamics v300-s4 @ 350W). I had the GAIN knob on it all the way to the MAX and along with it a clean signal @ 52-53 Volume of the Pioneer 4100sd HU might I say even higher (even with +2 Bass Boost on HU and Bass Boost on the Kole also a little bit, Sound Retriever 2), but I don't know when that HU started to distort exactly, it seemed it never did. The Pioneer 4100sd had only one preout RCA @ 4V. And I don't know which sensitivity value that Kole amp had, but I had it turned all the way clockwise to the max and even then it sounded good. Could anybody explain this?
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I think there's still some kind of cancellation, but not so much as before haha. I have some specific tracks with specific bass. When I listen to them using a decent pair of in-ear headphones, you get that cool heightened bass feeling and you just want to start dancing to the rhythm, feeling which I was accustomed to in my other car with that other setup. Thing is I don't get the same feeling here though. I hope a little bit of tuning would help me reach that point, which is the only thing I am looking for, that cool feeling like you're being embraced by bass waves I miss so much and you just wish others could experience those divine moments with you.
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I didn't try that because I thought of the "Stereo" property of the rear RCA output. Allow me to apologize. My issue was the gain knob on the JL amp, way higher than it should have been... So I have listened to distorted bass this whole time. No wonder I went through all this frustration. Like a sinewave. There were times I thought everything was ok, only for the next day to feel no difference whatsoever and start the frustration all over again. I think my issue is/was simple, matching the JL gain wih the 80PRS sub preout voltage. Strange that the clip indicator on the JL amp did not light up while trying to set the gain playing a 0db 40hz... What I did today is I have lowered the gain way down, it's like 20 25% and the sub plays very tight and clean. I have no cancelation issues anymore or at least I am under the impression of that. And everytime I ran the AutoTA&EQ, Pioneer has always set the Sub to MINUS 19db or even lowerer lol. What I will do next is to set up the gain properly using a DMM. I didn't have the 40Hz test track at hand. The sub is capable of 800W @ 2Ohms and the JL can reproduce those at 2Ohms. I need to match the 40VoltsRMS (Volts AC) on full volume according to my calculations, while playing the 40hz track. Bottom line I am an idiot.
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Thanks. For those familiar with the JL Rd1000/1, it has a Switch on it for the Voltage. You can set it to either Low or High. What option would you choose given the above setup? Here is the explanation in the manual, which leaves me dead confused. "The “Low” position on the “Input Voltage” switch selects an input sensitivity range between 200mV and 2V. This means that the “Input Sensitivity” rotary control will operate within that voltage window. If you are using an aftermarket source unit, with conventional preamp level outputs, this is the position you should select. The “High” position on the “Input Voltage” switch selects an input sensitivity range between 800mV and 8V for all input channels. This is useful for certain high-output preamp level signals as well as speaker-level output from source units and small amplifiers." Given that the 80PRS outputs a clean 5V signal at full blast, doesn't that mean that, when I set the gains, shouldn't I match these 5Volts on the Rd1000/1? Which requires for that Switch to be set on High? I clearly do not understand the principle of level matching the HU with the Amp.
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Thank you for your speedy intervention. I also forgot to mention, bass is also not tight, not hitting the right notes, even when the sub is the only one playing. The only time I get tight bass is when I get out of the care, open the trunk and stand next to the sub. I mean there is something telling me that even in that particular situation, when I am next to it, although it seems way better, it's still not that rich bass I was used to. My Subwoofer is double crossed over. I cannot disable the LPF on the HU itself, neither the LPF on the JL, they are always on. I tried LPF on deck all the way to 200Hz max with the 6db Slope, while on the amp 80Hz or lower, tried different settings. Nothing. This HU has 3 outputs. I thought to myself how could I bypass the double crossover, maybe that's the main reason, cabin gain bing a secondary one,, hypothetically speaking. So the I thought to myself to try and take the deck out, plug out the subs rcas from the dedicated SUB rca outputs on the back of the HU and plugging them to the REAR output of the HU. That way I am able to set the crossover for the REAR on the deck to to pass all frequencies. This should theoretically work, since the LPF on the JL amp is always on. WHat do you think?
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I found your longy post rather interesting because it mirrors my long term frustration, which is that with the loss of the upper bass output. I would like to share my story briefly. My first ever setup consisted of: - Peugeot 206 1999 Version - HU Pioneer 4100SD - Factory Front and Rear Speakers - Subwoofer: SPL Dynamics v300-s4 350W @ 4 Ohm in a 49 Litres Slot Port Box - Subwoofer Amplifier: Kole Audio QX620 Bridged 1x360W @ 4 Ohm Audio Experience: 9/10! Insipte of the factory speakers, unamplified the audio experience was extraordinary! Even though the low frequencies were more powerful, I have never had any frequency gaps even when I crossed the Subwoofer @45 Hz on the Kole Amplifier. I cannot describe how divine the music felt inside that CAR. Now back to the present: - KIA RIO Hatchback Coupe 2016 Version - HU Pioneer 80PRS - Front System: Gladen RS 165 2x120W @ 3 Ohm powered by Mosconi Gladen ONE 120.2 Amplifier 2x120W @ 4 Ohm - Rear System Factory, disabled - Subwoofer: ESX Quantum QE-1224 800W @ 4x4 Ohm in a 50 Litres Slot Port Box - Subwoofer Amplifier: JL Audio Rd1000/1 1x800W @ 2 Ohm Audio Experience: 4/10 No matter what I do, I always have a gap in these areas: 40-50Hz, 60-90Hz, and an overemphasis below 40Hz. This disappears once I lay the driver seat towards the back seats, imagine my head then resting horizontally me being lower than the normal driver position, from that position it seems a portion of the gaps are no longer there, so weird and frustrating... BUT, no matter the crossover settings on Hu or AMplifier, no matter the phase, no matter the door treatments, no matter the firing position of the sub in the trunk, The only way possible to hear that spectrum of frequencies coming from the sub itself is to be in the near vecinity of it, say putting the sub on the rear seats or on the front passenger seat or to rest your driver seat horizontallywise like you're ready to take a nap in the car lol. I suspect this car is resonating in such a way that the sound becomes extremely muddy, just a thought... I have almost given up. I tried and I tried and I freakin tried a lot of combination o settings. I had improved the quality of the sound by a mere fraction, say when I brought all of the audio components grounds to a common ground point. But no matter what I did, it still played like crap and nothing similar to what I was used to in that Peugeot 206 which wasn't even sound treated. I strongly want to believe that the acoustics of this particular ca is totally against any enjoyable audio experience. If this is true than I'd be relieved in a way, at least I have an answer. Other than that, try not to imagine Clipping or Distortion issues, as these are excluded from start, since the Rd1000 has a clipping indicator and me knowing what I am dealing with when it comes to crossover settings, Gain, Phase, or the settings on the HU itself.
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Hi everyone, wanted to introduce myself and salute the members sharing their knowledge to help others end their frustration. Thought I'd list my setup down below. Car: Kia Rio Hatchback Coupe European Version (2016 Version) *cars design - playing a crucial role into ruining the audio experience HU: Pioneer 80PRS Front System: Gladen RS 165 2x100W @ 3 Ohm Front System Amplifier: Mosconi Gladen ONE 120.2 2x120W @ 4 Ohm Subwoofer: ESX Quantum QE-1224 1x800W @ 4x4 Ohm in a 50 Litres Slot Port Box located in the trunk Subwoofer Amplifier: JL Audio Rd1000/1 1x800W @ 2 Ohm *front doors treated *a common ground point for all of the above described equipment
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Cheers everyone, Google's 5th result concerning my problem "car audio bass cancellation" brought me here.