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0 NeutralAbout Hunter844
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Rank
Newbie
- Birthday 11/10/1977
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Cabot, AR
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Interests
Home Theater
Sports
Car Audio
HVAC
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Yes, it's about a 1.5'' gap in the biggest portion of it....I think I can get an area about 16'' x 54''. My plan was to get a longer hose attached to a can of foam and get down as low as I can go and just start working my way up. Far from done but this is the gist of what I'm going to do. @Skullz Drying out shouldn't be a problem.
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I am building a small sub box for my 2001 S10 ext cab ZR2 using a shallow mount MB Quart driver. I'll be mounting on the rear wall of the cab. Anyway I pulled off that rear wall panel and discovered there is a cavity where I should be able to do some good in terms of sound deadening and wondered if using regular spray foam found at home depot will actually do some good? Is it dense enough to stop sound or should I be thinking about another solution? Mind you I'm just looking to have it better than it was to cut down on road noise since I've got that area opened up...not looking to spend a lot of money or have to order more products in.
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need help with wireless connection
Hunter844 replied to bcst86's topic in Computers / Electronics / Music / Games
Make sure your SSID is correctly typed in and password...both are case sensitive. -
Thanks...this is the conclusion I came to on Saturday after convincing the Crutchfield Adviser that I needed a 24-pin connector and not a 20 pin. Apparently there is also some differences in the bracket kit as well so they are sending one that will cover better. The one they had sent didn't line up and wouldn't come close to covering. The kit for the 2002 also has an option for a 1/2 DIN EQ although I doubt I'll use it. Just part of it I guess...wasn't anyone's fault. The date code on the factory radio reads 10/16/02 so it's possible my truck has always been listed incorrectly OR it's got a radio/dash that isn't original to the truck. I've never done a car fax on it...I got it in 2005. I suspect it's possibly been in a wreck but I know it's got a clean title so it may have went under the wire.
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I guess it was about a year or two back and I stumbled upon this site using the google-bays. My biggest passion is home theater but I started to get a little bored with it and instead of getting upgradeitus I decided it was time to get into Car Audio as I haven't really even cared about it in many years. It seems like I don't know many 30-somethings that are even into car audio anymore, not many even understand or can distinguish between a good HT system and HTiB garbage. If I were to explain to the average friend of mine that my sonotube subwoofer is tuned to 15hz many would scratch their head and go into telling about their awesome Bose system. Anyway...glad to be here and I am really enjoying reading the fabrication threads. Those guys are wizards at wood working and all the other stuff that goes into it. I wish I had about a 1/4 of their talent.
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It's the one that came right out of the end of the head unit. I haven't traced it down but I don't know why it would matter if it does't have enough wires anyway. The dots aren't connecting on this. The paper work on my truck says it's a 2001 but the radio I have for it has a date code of 2002. Looking at the 2002 wire harness it looks a whole lot more like what I need. I went back to Crutchfield and put in 2002 instead of 2001 and it gave me an option of RDS and didn't do that before. The plug shown is still showing 13 wires instead of the 15 that my factory plug has...so I'm still confused on this. I would gather that has something to do with chimes or something I don't know.
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I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Forgive me...I'm not very knowledgeable about this stuff. I have a 2001 Chevy S10 ZR2 (4X4) I ordered off Crutchfield and they sent me my new Sony Digital Media player and a wire adapter kit. The problem is it appears to be the wrong adapter. Crutchfield only has one option for my year and make and it's that one http://www.crutchfie...ss.html?tp=2977 My GM factory plug looks like this... Next part. I start to drive off without the original factory stereo plugged in and got about a mile down the road before it started dieing on me. I deduced that this truck must have some kind of security protection (I have no clue) so I'm able to get it started again and limp it on home with it dieing a few times on the way. Mind you prior to this the truck had no issues leading to stalling out or anything like that. I get back and plug the factory radio back in and it runs fine. Well none of this stuff was explained to me so I'm lost as a goose as to how to over come this. In order to further test this theory out I decide to set out again in hopes of finding a wiring harness...no luck but the truck ran great with the factory radio plugged in. I've emailed Crutchfield and sent them basically the same information and await their response. Really I'd like to find what ever the remedy is here locally instead of having to wait on something to ship in. So far I haven't found anything that looks like it fits my factory plug so I don't know what to do. The factory plug has 15 wires, the new Sony radio has 15 wires, the crutchfield adapter has 13 wires.
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Ok...some stupid noob questions to keep you guys on your toes... Where abouts on the engine block would the ground wire normally be located? I haven't had a chance to take the mud guard off and look real hard but I haven't seen where it goes from up top. I do see a braided cable grounded to the firewall and going off and down into the direction of the block. The stock power wire from the alt looks to be about an 8 ga size (or whatever OEM automotive equivalent there is) so I would gather I should probably beef all this stuff up. This may seem self-explanatory to most but I'm a little dense on my next question. Where do most of you guys get your 1/0 ring terminals? What hole size is typical? I would think 5/16 on the alternator and maybe a little bigger on some of the other stuff. I have a 2001 S10 ZR2 and plan to put a new HU and speakers in it just as soon as the equipment arrives. For now I will use an old Kenwood 8'' powered subwoofer and a 300 watt 2 channel amp made by Legacy Car Audio to power my front door speakers. I am leaving myself plenty of upgrade potential in the wiring with intentions to likely build a sub and buy a better amp as money and time permit. To make a long story short my intentions are leaning more on the sound quality side of things than it is to impress the neighbors 4 miles down the road.