JimJ

Office, meh *unemployed bum

Very true.

Sean getting feisty, I like It really is tilting at windmills...as long as there's a disconnect between "what you write for school" and what you do on here there's going to be no connecting to those people.

nothing actualy. We had a gift boquet at the micro wedding, and the big one... well, the ladies on her side all want to make the arangements. The hotel we are having it provides a little bit. I'm affraid of that bill though... ouch. Believe me, going with an outside florist would be worse $500ish for a bride's bouquet...easily that or more on centerpieces depending on how many tables you've got. $2K's a usual budget around here.

How much have you spent on flowers so far...

What exactly do you do? Remember - modesty There's always going to be someone that knows more than you, which is a very good thing...if you're not around someone you can learn from, you're doing something wrong.

DSB dude. Yes i go to north. Question, why you all hate me so much? ask me, and i will more than likely play your kind of music, if thats it (though i doubt that it is). We don't hate you. It's just that this is a much more mature audience than you're probably used to dealing with, and (most of us) have gotten out of the phase where getting people's attention matters Any stereo should be for you and you foremost. With that goal in mind, how can you justify such an abortion? Like I said before...your curiosity for the hobby is a good thing. Don't lose that. But you also have to filter out what ideas really aren't going to work out.

Why not a 8"? an 8" would have to be EXTREMELY slim for my use in the backpack. plus there's the enclosure....if you got designs i am not opposed but i think the tang bands would be alot easier. Morel 8" Neolins are under 3" deep, but they'd be a waste for this project. Again, a good set of AKG, Sennheiser or Grado cans will cost less, be less bulky, annoy fewer people, and give you a better appreciation for what music should sound like.

Does anyone need an Alpine AI-Net to RCA auxiliary adapter? I found one NIB just cleaning out some of my cabinets...

So they're "haters" (I hate that term, it reeks of hoodrat-ness) because they're enforcing a law? And letting you go at that?

A commonly quoted number is 3dB for the threshold of what's perceptible...in theory that would require either doubling or halving the power to make a difference, but any SPL competitor will tell you that theory doesn't always work out so well in real life

I need a Class III hitch and 4x8 trailer to fall out of the sky (preferably not on me). I realized a good trailer that's suitable for highway use would cost a couple hundred, but I didn't think a good hitch would run $200 or so, with all the necessary hardware... And it's not like it's something that lends itself to shipping...kind of local only.

It's doubtful anyone would actually notice a difference by ear. Now, in competition an extra 500W might make a difference, and it might make a difference for someone who doesn't know how their equipment is working and is sending more power than the driver can handle otherwise

Heard them, wasn't impressed...how high are his standards, though?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;hl=SPL+brand

I don't know where you heard that, but it's incorrect... I'd categorize the BL's as being for people less concerned with accuracy than volume.

this is retarded. i straight clipmoded my 3000d to power my 18 btl..... had it for months pounding it all day long. and i believe dirty signals do hutrt the sub Before you go off typing things... http://forum.carstereos.org/clipping-test-...41.html?t=47441

Waste of money, if you ask me...

I've never heard a new XXX period. I don't know how retarded that price is when REL and Genelec have several offerings in that price range, and exceeding that Sure, they're pre-built, but remember, there are power cords more expensive than $2k

Nah, no more difficult, you're just starting from the beginning. Get the basics down - lots of sound deadening, seal up all large holes in the door panel, proper amplification.

My neck is sore

<--- too po' for delivery

Here is my advice, take it if you want. Quality OWNS quantity. You have a somewhat small cabin space for that truck (unlike sedans or SUVs) and hitting the low low bass will suffer greatly because of this. Cone area is one thing, but the box is responsible for about 80% of the output, so between 3 10's or 2 12's in the same size box I would lean toward the 12's as the box is a bit small for 3 10" subs. (inhibiting low bass efficiency) First instinct would be to jump into the 12's for the low bass, but the problem is your restrictions on box size will prevent you from getting a box tunable to 25~30 hz. As the box gets smaller the port needs to be longer to tune low, but as the box gets bigger the port requirements get shorter to reach the low freq, there is a relationship here. The hardest part is lets say you build a 3cuft box, as you decide to tune lower the port gets longer, which takes up more space in the box, which makes the box even smaller, which makes port tuning even harder because you will be crunching TONS of numbers. & if you forgot to add in sub displacement your port will need to grow again. So you can either make the box bigger than you want to run the 12's & hope to be able to tune the port low enough, or Go with 2 10's, keep the box the size you want and be able to tune the port as low as you want because the box gives you the room to do so. I can say, 2 SSA 10's in a 2.6cube box ported to 30~31hz with 1500w rms is retarded loud. I am an installer/fabricator & have been doin this ish for years, and even I could not sit in that car for very long at full volume before my eyes began to hurt. So this 3cuft you claim to have, is that an absolute measurement? Or did you measure it & subtract for material space taken? (ie drawing a pic & mapping out the internal dimensions of the ideal box to calculate the actual interior air space, not taking into consideration woofer displacement or port displacement) MY...BRAIN...HURTSSSSSSSSS! Learn to read, then.

Perhaps he doesn't want to void his warranty right off the bat? I personally think an Icon doesn't need more than a few hundred watts at all, but that's just me

#2 would be pretty appealing to me, because it would allow the most output sealed while keeping cone travel to a minimum. If you want to save some space, #4 sealed would be my choice.