JimJ

Totally dependent on your install. Dependent on your install, your taste in music and how picky you are. I don't think you'd have a problem with an amp in the 800-1kW range and a small 50x2 amp for your front stage, as long as you're smart about things...

Why not get an SSD and run less power?

That's called giving good advice If you want to test it, just hook it up in parallel to the circuit. If you did that and you didn't get the readout to light, does the display have a remote wire that needs to be wired in to the switched 12V?

Alright...you really should Google these terms to get a complete understanding, but here's a start... Crossover - the job of the low pass crossover is to allow lower frequencies to pass while higher frequencies are attenuated (rolled off). Otherwise, you'd have a full range signal going to your sub. A 100Hz/24dB crossover setting, for example, would mean the filter starts rolling off frequencies above 100Hz - at 200Hz (double the frequency, one octave above), there would be 24dB of attenuation - at 400Hz, 48dB of attenuation. Preamp output - another set of outputs so you can run a second amp off the same signal from the head unit. Bass EQ - Fancy name for bass boost. Don't use it. Infrasonic filter - think of it as the low pass Xover in reverse. Instead of blocking high frequencies, it's blocking very low frequencies that might damage your sub if played in a ported enclosure. Set it to 5Hz below the tuning of your box, or leave it off if it's sealed. THD - Total Harmonic Distortion. Don't worry about it. S/N ratio - Signal to Noise ratio. Again, don't sweat it. Frequency Response - basically...what it says. The total bandwidth that the amplifier covers, it's a worthless spec to some degree because you aren't going to be running a 500Hz signal through your sub anyway, it just needs to cover the speaker's passband without major dips. Damping Factor - the impedance of the load (in ohms) divded by the amplifier's output impedance (also in ohms). Once again, it's not a spec you particularly need to be concerned with. Input Range - this is used for gain setting, and will depend on your head unit's preout voltage. If you have a head unit with preouts greater than 2V, you want the higher range.

'Steve's Gym'... Man, I'd go there on sheer entertainment value alone.

I'd definitely use more on the front baffle your next attempt.

I had a very eloquent reply typed up and the site bombed on me. Go to BCAE1.com, they explain it better than I could anyway.

Eh, I'd just go sealed.

Want a wall in the Exploder?

Don't live near a "major city", not really sure what the prices around Charlotte would be, but a half mil doesn't sound out of the ballpark. There's some new stuff going up around my parent's place that's in the $250ish range for decently sized two stories, but we're not really in the "suburbs" yet.

I'd go with the SSD sealed, maybe two if you could fit them.

CSNY - Helplessly Hoping Probably my favorite song from them.

Amp settings?

It's weird, it's Saturday night and all I want to do is go to bed. Too damn tired to do anything else. Night 'hop.

I'd look into others first, but that's just me.

How are the settings on your amp, and are the connections secure?

I think versus threads are useless. Are 187's available now? I thought I heard about Nick getting more in, but I wasn't sure...

...Apocalypse Now? I'm sure they'd love that...

hmmm...

So you have a right to make as much nuisance as you want, as long as it's only temporary? It comes down to being considerate of other people...some people are, others aren't...

What's your question?

just*

The Orions have nowhere near the failure rate of the PB's.

The better question is...will your vehicle take that kind of power?

Sounds like you're really confused as to what you want... Please, being "heard from a block away" is disrespectful to everyone around you, and makes the hobby in general look bad.