JimJ

What you're going through is old fashioned psychoacoustics...you're telling yourself there's a problem when there isn't one. But it's your money. Don't be surprised if there isn't a huge difference when you change amplifiers though

Excellent review! Even though I see someone's been looking at my usual review material...especially the soundtrack choices That track from Narnia does funny things to midbasses

Hoffman's Iron Law. You want deep extension, you need a large enclosure, or run into a lot of compromises...

"Full potential", to some degree, is a mental thing...nothing that says you have to run a sub at full rated RMS power to be happy, I don't know where that came from. All this worrying about sending every last watt of power to the driver seems silly to me. If you're not happy with the output, that's another thing - but I highly doubt you'll notice much of a difference by adding 400W.

Not sure I'd even go that far...

The Sundown woofer might be a good choice in that price range. Creative Sound Solutions in Canada has a bunch of stuff in the under $150 class too.

Certainly couldn't hurt things. Whatever way is easiest for you...as long as the panels are securely glued and held together, and the hole is a snug fit for the woofer, it's not too critical.

Because you'd need to have the box clamped for a month before you could do anything with it Very long curing time... Coarse thread drywall screws work fine, just make sure you predrill the holes to avoid splitting the wood.

Don't do that. Use a good wood glue, like Titebond or Elmer's, instead of Liquid Nails.

Honestly, I would probably keep it the way it is, or add another sub to drop the impedance.

http://www.audiojunkies.com And yeah, it's nice

High Q midbasses are sometimes used in open baffle...a lot of vintage Alnico-magnet speakers had Q's over 1, to make usable bass with no enclosure involved.

Multiple runs of heavy gauge wiring, and solid connections.

If you're dealing with a lot of power, sizing the system to eliminate all voltage drop could get expensive. There's a reason why dB Drag guys have 16 or more parallel runs of cable; fractions of a volt lost could be what makes a first place into a second. So unless you're chasing that kind of diminishing returns, ultimately you're going to get to a point where some voltage drop is acceptable.

Putting a clamp meter on the outputs.

Are you sure of that 950W? Burned up tinsel leads indicates something's wrong with the way the amp is set up.

Turn it down? You have to ask yourself how much drop is acceptable, and size everything to meet that goal...

Even with a perfectly unclipped signal, a DMM won't tell you the whole story... A DMM didn't tell me I had a 10 ohm impedance rise and was only sending 200W to the woofer during a burp

Should work fine.

What do you have for power? If I was starting out again, I'd go active and assemble a front stage from individual drivers...

Personally, I wouldn't bother.

As much as it kills me, I can't hate on their product too much The owners are a different issue.

This was only from one pair of amps, the others were very close. http://www.carstereos.org/gallery/showimag...=4115&c=188 - the battery bank, plus a 60A rapid charger was the power supply for those tests. Let's see some Z1/Z1A results

Your Atlases loved the higher tuning on rap, whatever you had them up to...

Hey... If you can't tell, SSA's gotten a bit more traffic since the last time you were around