JimJ
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Everything posted by JimJ
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I thought it was good... Music > TV. Unless you have a huge DVD collection. That's about all they're good for.
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but doesnt a down firing port in home audio get diffused by having a cone in the path of the port. I'm not really sure what you mean...
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We have a gallery. I love what Mark has done, don't get me wrong...but I need a mass upload feature I don't want to have to continually bother you guys just to upload more than one photo at a time...
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Fuck, time to find another photo hosting place...
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I couldn't get through 20 minutes or so of the original when it was on TV not too long ago. I just never got into it I guess.
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Only movie I've been to see this year is Sicko, went a few days ago... Definitely interesting.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Be...140542955QQrdZ1 :drool:
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Nope. You get reinforcement from the port no matter how large the airspace is...
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Ah, I'm in Hillsborough for the next few months. Having very low voltage might damage some amps, regardless of the amp it's going to limit power output and isn't a very good thing. People have bought alternators from Mean Green, Excessive Amperage, Ohio Generator, HO-Alternators, Dom Iraggi, and a bunch of others...depending on who makes something to fit your vehicle and budget.
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Banging pots & pans are cheaper.
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Doing a search for "BTL install" or something like that on here would give you all the results you need
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Not really sure what this has to do with Fi, but OK... 400A is a pretty sizable alternator. And anything that big would be horrible at lower RPM's. If you really need that much current delivery, I'd look into two 250A ones...or just get a single 300A model, even those are hard to find if you don't drive a commercial truck or something similar... Where in NC are you, just curious.
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From an SPL perspective I don't know, but I do know there are plenty of people with downfiring ports in home audio builds that don't have 3"-4" of clearance between the bottom of the port and the floor, and they seem to work just fine
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If you're chasing numbers on a meter, try every configuration you can... If you're just going for a well blended substage, use whatever looks aesthetically good to you.
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I've never been particularly impressed with Orion's woofers. Between the W6v2 and either the Fi Q or SSD would be a tough choice...honestly for what you'd want you'd probably be happy with any of the three. Guess it'd come down to your budget.
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OpenMoko, the open source unlocked iPhone
JimJ replied to flakko's topic in Computers / Electronics / Music / Games
So I guess it's suddenly going to be cool to walk around with gargantuan things clipped to your belt... Still too much, IMO. But I'm glad if Apple gets some competition out of it. -
I'd even go bigger than that...something like 15" Eminence Alphas or Dayton cast frames. As I'm sure you know, midbass and OB doesn't happen without some serious cone area
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Since you're not chasing numbers, it's a little less critical, but I liked hearing Loyd's Aveo with side-firing aeroports. Didn't sound lean in the subbass at all. Of course, that wasn't exactly an enclosed trunk...
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Which actually has very little to do with how good the amp is...
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I hate you snookums. How big of a baffle are you using?
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The two choices you listed are pretty far apart. Granted, with the "right" install you can make the SSD's fart like any other woofer, but I'm not sure I'd bother with them in that case. If you really meant loud SQ and weren't just caught by the word filter, I'd say the SSD's no question, but if you tried to type S-Q-L I'd say it wouldn't matter, go with either.
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If you're buying a house, go IB in the attic or wall. As much cone area as you can afford.
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You won't hear it, you may gain a couple tenths on a sensor but that's about it.
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I think your original idea of an IDQ is a good one That or a Fi SSD with the copper coil.