JimJ

Not that I know of...

Already wrote it on the Great 12 Challenge site I think they're very comparable, honestly you could build an award-winning substage out of either. It gets as loud as it needs to

Given properly-made ports, it shouldn't matter...

The BL was designed to be a woofer for people more concerned with getting louder than sounding perfectly true to the recording, hence a peakier response curve. The W7 was built ground-up as a low-distortion driver with a bunch of linear travel. Personally, I'd take a W6v2 over either of them any day, but that's just me

They'll go deeper sealed.

Fi offers a warranty for everything except the BTL line, but it only covers manufacturing defects, not user error. IIRC, I could be wrong about that. Mixing subs is just a terrible idea, it's a recipe for a screwed-up frequency response and probably a decrease on a sensor.

I'd rather have the 15's sealed.

Neither.

Couple things we need to know... 1) Size you're looking for, plus how much mounting depth you have 2) Obviously, what's a "reasonable price" to you 3) What's your definition of "good sound"...what kind of things have you heard and liked, what kind of music are these going to be playing mostly, etc. 4) How high do they need to play, how low are your tweets going If you haven't already, I'd start reading http://www.zaphaudio.com, read the driver comparison pages. DIY Mobile Audio is another place to lurk, npdang's done a lot of very well-done driver tests for you to look at.

Yup, for some situations they make more sense

Has the potential to generate more heat, which could damage things if the board isn't sufficiently cooled...

?

Cool technique, although for the flares I'd be interested in I don't think PVC will stretch that far

Unless Fi starts making hook up wire, I'm sure this thread would be better in the general section of the forum.

Can't answer that without knowing what model you're looking at...

Either 1/2-ohm, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms.

How you build it is going to be determined by your organization(s), whether or not you want to compete with a national org, or stick with a local one. Because what works well in one won't always transfer over to the other...I'd find out first if you have the right equipment to be competitive in the organization you want to be part of. Because you might find that you get bumped into a higher class because of your amp, or cone area, etc.

Bolts into T-nuts is a wise choice no matter what the weight of the driver is.

I don't know what you're getting at. It's pretty simple, if you don't have enough power or reserve capacity to power a BTL, there's the BL. If you only have a kilowatt or so on tap, there's the Q. And their recommended ranges of power overlap quite nicely, so simply adding more to the Q over what's already available as options wouldn't get you anything else. What I'd like to see Fi do is offer something in a power range they really don't have anything for now, what the X series used to be. Maybe marketed to a different crowd, I don't know. I know the Shiva did really well in that power/price bracket. I have a feeling that'll be the role of AA, though

It's on carstereos.org, Josh had it in his signature for the longest time. If you truly take an attitude of "I want to improve my scores, tell me what I'm doing wrong so I can fix it", you'll get help. But that's not how you were posting when you started this thread. Humility is big...will take you far

Like him or not, Marshall's been around this and knows a heck of a lot more than you do, so I for one would probably be taking his advice if you want to scores to improve. Or you could do it on your own and struggle, either way. I think you're the only one here who thinks there's something to "have out" in the first place. Huh?

I'd debate whether that was music or not On a more serious note, I would think the smaller clearances on the 10" wouldn't lend itself to abuse as well, and if they made a 10" BTL they'd be a hellaciously high return rate from customers being ignorant - the "I wuz juss banginn' my shiz wen teh woofa stoppd workin" crowd. I don't know though.

A PG Tantrum 1200.1 would be perfect if you could find one used in good shape.

Get a true RMS-capable clamp meter, if you're serious at all about SPL competition you need one anyway.