JimJ

So you'll have people with 10's in the same class as people with 18's?

Need to get to bed, gotta be on campus around 9ish, probably won't come home until 6pm-ish...

Hmm...hopefully the bookstores have a book I need for a test on Thursday, otherwise I'm going to see how much truth there is in next day shipping

There's a reason for it, but not in a vehicle

What kind of music do you listen to? What's the rest of the system?

Boston Pro60's or Z6's come to mind...

Are you sure? With the way the speakers impedance curves are going to be, who knows how much power is going to be sent to them each...you simply have no way of knowing unless you actually measure it in real life. Christ, just get it over with. I honestly don't care if you listen to test tones all day long, but either listen to what's being said or go away and do what you're going to do anyway.

How many is "them"?

It can happen because the combined impedance might be too low for the amp. It could happen because one midbass might receive more power than the other. It could happen because one mid decides life simply isn't worth living anymore and self-destructs. Who knows.

But all of this is pretty moot because in a vehicle, you have much bigger things to worry about, like the aforementioned off axis response, timbre, tonality, frequency extension, cone breakup, all that fun stuff. Unless you're going with Brax amplification, the power side of things is pretty much taken care of.

Yes, but what kind of enclosures did those take to get any bass response, because the cone was so light and there was so little linear travel I have a pair of 96dB/W 6.5's I'm going to be using right now...and to get a decent response down to 40Hz, they're going in cabinets that are taller than me. Show me a set of speakers that are actually that sensitive in a sealed environment, with decent off axis response, and respectable bass performance, and I will literally run out and buy them for my monoblocks now

Might blow something up, might not. Go for it.

I don't really know why you're asking questions if you're committed to doing it your way. Just wire everything up and if it doesn't catch on fire, you're ahead of the game. If it does, well, keep an extinguisher close by Then they don't know what they're doing.

You won't find true high efficiency speakers that will work for you, for a number of good technical reasons. One is you can't fit the enclosures you'd need to get good results out of them in your doors. 90dB/W is not that inefficient.

Going to be interesting to see how they hold up with Hsu, REL's lower lines, and SVS in that price range... What would really "shake things up" is a package for half that, like an updated Adire Rava.

Indeed.

From some of your other threads you've made I'd say IB is the absolute last thing you'd be interested in.

When I auditioned them, I found that 5-600W was all you'd need. Any more and it's going to start pulling the stage back anyway... Excellent choice on subs. They really don't do anything wrong.

Not particularly looking forward to the interview I have tonight, but I'm heading back to NC for the weekend after it anyway. Long highway trips are good for de-stressing anyway.

"Upgrade" them? What's wrong with a pressed paper cone, a lot of very expensive drivers use them, not sure what's cheap about them... You could always go with aluminum, that worked out real well for TC Sounds

Werd. muhahahahaha

But the draw of a place like DIYMA is that the members are above average

Puts you in completely different competition classes, if that matters to you...

We done brokeded it

That doesn't really matter that much. As long as the board isn't like Audio Asylum and just uses a bad format to begin with, fancy graphics or skins just make the pages slower to load.