JimJ

I've never had much use for dollars per watt value

A higher Qts driver is going to be able to make bass with very large or IB enclosures, a driver with a very small Qts (below .3 or so) is going to require a ported or something more extensive enclosure. No problem

Do you have the right plugins? You might not have a current version of Flash installed or something...

Do you have the right plugins? You might not have a current version of Flash installed or something...

Great start here...really...

I haven't had sigs turned on here...since I joined basically Makes browsing a lot cleaner.

Putting "Audioque" into Google gave me their site on the first hit... Surprisingly enough...

The vast majority will do well IB. There are a couple that are enclosure-picky, but the specs will usually tell you when that is. They work by simply doing the crossover-ing at line level (in the RCA's) vs. at speaker-level (after the amplifier). So you need the active crossover itself (either a box that goes between the head unit output and the amplifier, or built into the head unit itself) and enough amp channels to individually power all the drivers you're planning on using. So for a 2-way setup with midbasses and tweets, you'd need four channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup with midbasses, midranges and tweets, you'd need six channels. Active crossovers aren't that expensive, especially with good head units having them built in anyway.

Thanks

Anything DIY, for one... Once you free yourself from passive Xovers, a whole new world opens up...and there's a lot more value. Check out http://www.zaphaudio.com and start reading his writeups Just a little taste of what's out there.

I can think of much better options for $300.

The JBL WGTI is a very solid sub for music, but since you aren't impressed with midbass I'm not sure you'd get anything out of it anyway... Go with the BTLs.

One thing for sure, there'll be a bunch of t00bz to go around.

Just tell me how the Cain & Cain room sounds like

As long as the output is unclipped, and there's no inducted noise present in the interconnects...who cares what the position of the gain knob is? Maximum unclipped power is going to be the same...

The Aura NS 10" would be near the top of my list at $500ish, but I don't think it'll work with your height limits...something like a Rainbow Vanadium costs about the same and would fit in shallower enclosures. http://premier-audio.com/index.php?main_pa...;products_id=60 Something like that.

Just found out my other dog has lymphoma... First one, then the other Sounds like she has a better chance to live at least a little longer...

Depends on what your definition of "getting loud" is, mine probably is very different than yours... I've never liked the sound of a DD sub. Any of them. Especially the 9500's and 9900's.

Weighted readings are over the whole audio bandwidth, varying in how different octaves may be attenuated...an A-weighted measurement is going to have a lot more higher frequency (and therefore damaging) info than a single 50Hz tone.

Been posted plenty before, but might as well here: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/WooferSpeed.pdf

There's really no clear answer to your question...it'll depend on the frequency, vehicle used, setup of the vehicle, etc...

"Quickness" has nothing to do with cone diameter...inductance is key

If you don't have a DMM, you don't have any business doing this yourself... Sorry, but there's some minimal level of test gear that you need just to have an idea what's going on with anything electrical

Upper bass is the job of the midbasses, period. I heard it in a 28Hz ported and sealed environments...neither really sounded like it was keeping the woofer from doing what it was capable of.