JimJ

The one mental image of Sean I have that stuck was the one with the pig carcass... Bulky? Let me show you bulky

these Krystals 4channels are pissing me off i would just use these ends for them... What's wrong with them?

Acoustic Visions (one of the dealers that has a forum here) sells FR125's, or at least used to... So does Creative Sound Solutions in Canada.

I don't see why not, the biggest problem in making RCA's isn't the wire but finding decent ends that make DIY'ing it economical, yet won't fall apart in a year...

I happen to think the Fostex banana cones are sexy myself, but I also think Unimogs look good so my aesthetic taste is twisted, I know...

Tell me if you run into Lord Baccus...

...geek

It's easier than you think, and you'll get the chance to learn totally out of date and non-transferable skills

Adcom gear is solid for what it goes for used. The auctions you see on Ebay are usually pretty much what the stuff is worth, it's not too terribly expensive. Of course, I'd probably recommend something like restoring a used Dynaco ST-70 for that price, but that's just me I've never owned anything with a powered sub output, and my Rava doesn't seem to mind. If you're using a plate amp with high level inputs, you can get away without one. The FF165 is actually preferred over the FE166/167 line of drivers for the BIB. You also don't get any nastiness caused by a whizzer cone either. I know the DIYAudio BIB thread has '165 dimensions in it, either Scottmoose or GM has posted them up at one time or another. For a pure full range, 4.5"-6" seems to be the sweet spot between bass extension and top end response. A 3" driver requires huge cabinets to have meaningful bass impact, and 8's have a tendency to be beamy and rolled off on the top end... As for materials, these have been built out of pretty much anything you can make a speaker out of...MDF, birch ply, all depends on how you want them finished. Mine are mash-ups of birch ply, white pine and red oak.

I'd be more concerned with whether or not your vehicle can provide an actual 4kW vs. whether the woofers will take it...

Did you make sure the internal crossovers on the amp, if it has any, are bypassed?

Weird.

If you got an invite before last Thursday and waited until after to sign in for the first time, the person who invited you might have to send it again. I think that's what happened with Aaron when I sent an invite.

The 500 server error is common, their server is still buggy as hell...I haven't gotten the username/pw thingy though.

I've got a metalworking friend in NC that builds custom trailerable grills...all I'd need to do is slap a Class III hitch on the van and I could take a trip up to MN

I assume you're running it actively now? The low pass point & slope is probably different than it was originally, levels may have changed, etc. That's why crossover points aren't an automatic thing, it takes time to tune everything so the drivers work well with each other and the vehicle

It's already up...in many places http://www.zillaspeak.com has good info and plans, DIYAudio has a wealth of information in the Full Range section. http://www.frugel-horn.com should be a stop for anyone interested in this kind of thing, they have some good alternatives to BIB's, if corners aren't an option...

I've liked the tweets I've heard in pillars, as well

just depends on how high u turn it,just gotta use it wisely,its impossible to keep a class d from clippin completly Care to explain?

Email. No phone.

We don't have today off for Veteran's Day...which seems really ironic because we're one of only two non-military schools with a full corps of cadets program still left, and all the military connections within the school...

IASCA iDBL would have fun with you

Cable seems to be down. Oh well.

That's funny right there.

I can't think of a reason why more cone area would be a bad thing.