JimJ

Frankly, is that a bad thing? It worked...if you asked most of the people around here what their definition of "SQ" would be, it's not what the OP said. Which is why these questions are a little exasperating because we're trying to answer questions when we have no clue what the other side means. As for the original question, the BL's should be OK for that.

Passive sets for that price are basically meh...if you can double your budget to around $200 you could afford to get an active Xover with the extra $100 and then spend $100 on drivers, which would have a lot more value.

I'd pass.

My e12a.22 came with a 5-year warranty, I believe. Let's see, in that 5 years, they've changed buildhouses twice, totally abandoned the design of the woofer that I bought...heck, they didn't keep that design more than one year, after the 15A's cones failed they dropped it like a lead balloon and went to the Image Dynamics-built drivers

Someone who knows what they're doing Amen. No f'ing way I could afford the commercial equivalents for a lot of what I have...that's where DIY comes in.

No.

There's a difference between someone who "hates" and someone who has a legitimate gripe with the product for one reason or another. As for eD amps, I don't know if they're being built by Value Electronics anymore but if they are, you might want to watch out for replacement parts. If you want to repair some of those Avionixx or Tsunami amps you're looking at some good money to find a Tripath chip now that they're out of business...

This is what I'm going to be helping a friend of mine move on Monday... http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=156257 I'll be sure to bring a camera... (and earplugs)

Loose connection in the fuse block?

I wouldn't.

Be back on later...

Apparently I work on Pimpedout97ex-time, except it's not ghetto-fied Knukonceptz is about to get a little richer from me, I think...I've looked and looked and it's going to be damn hard to find mono RCA cables that are totally shielded for under $9.99 each. Even buying the raw ends and cable isn't cheaper than that.

Watching Nick work on the truck all last week got me motivated to finish my shit. This could be dangerous.

I'm not tired of it. People need to be educated

I was hoping this would be moved to the trashbin I'd disagree. I'd also disagree. Any "best sub" of mine is not going to require anywhere near that kind of power.

Well, there's your problem I would hold on to the sub you have for now. Upgrade the front speakers, thoroughly sound deaden/seal the doors, add an amp to the front speakers...and I bet you'll get a lot more of the "impact" you feel is missing. There's no way head unit power to stock speakers is going to give you the dynamic range and punch you're wanting from kickdrums. Simply adding another kind of sub to the mix right now isn't going to be a solution. Check this link out: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925

If you have access to an air nailer and are painting/covering the box, I would use brad nails. Saves so much time. I used clamps only for the BIB's, and it added lots of time to the build...

I don't know what you're asking. What kind of cartridges? Phono cartridges? Just try to find something that doesn't have MOV's (metal-oxide varistors), they like to wear out over time and after surges...Brick Wall makes some very good filters that won't wear out, I have a Monster unit that works pretty well too... Can't go too small I would probably DIY the sub myself as it's pretty easy to do... I would assume Blu-Ray is encoded for 5.1...

IMO, the tint looks out of place on that car. The wheels look very good, though.

I bet even that doesn't get low enough for the lowest stuff out there

Nothing that says that "audiophile SQ" (whatever that means) can't play Tool either I'm honestly kind of surprised about what you said about the SR. Just curious, where do you have the LP Xover set? Are you sure the box is well-sealed? From what you said, it sounds like you need to improve your midbass more than your subbass. The kick from the kickdrums should be coming from the midbasses, in front of you, vs. from the sub behind you.

Not in my opinion Power is actually pretty irrelevant, in the grand scheme of things...because at home, you can always scale up the speakers to fit lower-powered amplifiers I wasn't even thinking about upgradeability, but you make a good point. Personally, I think that the current standards of high-definition are as good as I'm ever going to want (and will probably be years before I get to that standard anyway), but some always need to have the latest and greatest.

I'm still not a fan of high crossover points unless running subs properly staged in stereo. Just my opinion, though. I'd much rather have a crossover point of 40Hz and some hellacious midbass than a higher Xover and weaker midbass, or having that strong midbass and having the potential for a peak right in the crossover region.

A lot of larger Selenium, JBL, B&C woofers use a 4" VC, but they require very different enclosures than what most "car" woofers are optimized for.

How do you like your interconnects? Medium? Medium-rare? Little bit of copper in the middle, thanks