TX98Z28

I'm curious about the new option. Also would like to say the list at the top should be the Seas Prestige 27TFFNC/G that I believe you are referring to and not the 27TFFN/G that doesn't even exist, my mistake. Honestly I don't have very many options for my sizing requirements, mounting depth being the main concern. Wish the Seas Lotus RT25A was still made heard very positive things about it( mounting depth a possible problem though) or the Scan D2904/6000 or 6001. I did find these two though Seas Lotus Performance PT 27F L0005-06S and the Seas Lotus Reference RT 27F L0004-06S, just throwing them out there into the equation. Iv'e come to the conclusion that I will have to pick something and see how it sounds to me. Hopefully won't have to EQ as much with a higher end driver and proper location but no driver is perfect so Equalizing them will occur.

I believe those are large formats the mounting depth is way out of the question for my camaro. No place to put them without serious glassing work. A good deal though, might pick them up, I still need to build some cabinets for my Pioneer SX-737, but thats a whole different project.

$300 was the absolute max I would spend on a pair of the small formats. I'll find and buy some super cheap ones to use to see if I make a mistake resulting in well failure. I'm still looking to buy the Scan-Speak D3004/6020 for the tweeters for this build. I can't find the ones anywhere that ///M5 recommended as they are discontinued (sometimes you get lucky and can find them still). I'll use the D3004/6020 after I feel confident everything is setup correctly for them. How do you like your Seas Prestige ER18 midwoofers for your setup? Curious what you have them crossed over at, mid bass, etc.

I already found both of them they were Scan-Speaks Classic line of drivers, they are close to the D3004/6020, should preform well. I wonder why they discontinued them, they look very nice T/S wise and their graphs looked promising. Buying cheap ones isn't a problem for testing, setting gains, etc. Your right better to fry those than the Scan-Speaks.

I found the D2904 alright……I was comparing it to other large format tweeters and for the size (mainly the mounting depth) it was feasible compared to the other large formats that were clearly huge depth wise. I assumed thats why it was so insanely priced ,way out of my budget though and well the wrong D2904, but a good read on them. The D3004/6020 looks very close T/S wise to the D2904/600000 and D2904/600001. Scan-Speak also has the D3004/6020 in their automotive line D3004/602006, it's silver and black instead of all black face/surround/grill, exact same T/S parameters. I have never ran active ever. Iv'e had the CDA-9887 since 2008 and just ran my junk stock drivers off it. I had no idea back then what I had bought or what it was capable of tuning wise, should be good for a first active system learning wise. With that said no I do not want to blow these Scan-Speak tweeters…I absolutely agree not cheap to replace! Is it a common rookie mistake to just set the amplifier crossover switch to full and forget to set the high pass in the 9887 itself or to much power, way to low crossover point? I did read something about soldering a capacitor to the tweeter at 2x the Fs to prevent them from well… destruction, I read this would effect phase also if done. If I'm missing something here feel free to set me straight.

I honestly can't say yet. For the tweeters very low to start with, same with the midwoofers. The C1100.4 seems to be a beast so I'm not even worried about not having enough power. Gains will be set very conservative to start with. Theres always room for improvement if you feel you need to do so with your tweeters. My tweeter budget is $300 a pair, I can't justify at this time spending more than that for small format tweeters.

Well ///M5 I have been doing a lot of reading and a lot of thinking over the past multiple days, and as you have already said my car truly isn't very friendly for audio. The Scan-Speak D2904 Revelator you recommended is one hell of a tweeter just out of my budget at $277 a pop. I would love to run them, you clearly get what you pay for with those but finding a mounting location for them without glassing something up is not possible with the crammed cave interior environment I'm working with. I have officially ruled the kick panels out after sitting in the car with a panel put back in. I have to work the clutch pedal and the whole area down there is very crammed, my foot would either be hitting the tweeter(regardless of size) or covering the face of the tweeter up 95-100% of the time, honestly theres not even room for one there for my car. I believe this is where they need to go http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/1173140-i-have-huge-tweeters-suggestions.html Post #8 shows the pictures. I would more than likely go with the Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00 for this location due to space requirements, and straight from Scan-Speak "The compact size is one of the key elements of these Illuminator tweeters, which provides a high degree of flexibility within design options. The small size is employed without compromising sound quality where these compact tweeters are fully comparable to the renowned full size Illuminator and Revelator tweeters, no matter if the music is played at high or low listening levels." I compared the two, clearly the D2904 Revelator you get what you pay for especially with the low mounting depth for such a quality tweeter. The D3004/6020 T/S parameters look promising for fitting what they did in such a small package. I have appreciated your help and feedback ///M5, looking forward to your thoughts on this mounting spot and the D3004/6020.

Heres another link ///M5 with convicting feedback on the lower A-pillar mounting location. Also shows the custom made tweeter pods some guys prefer to use for 4th gen camaros and firebirds. I have a pair but still don't really want them going there, mainly because it blocks the side defroster vents to the windows and they would aim way to close to my head chest area. http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/506166-tweets-pillars-not-good.html So it seems after doing some research the kick panels are looking promising for the mounting spot for the tweeters. I've noticed a lot of guys are putting them there, would be a lot closer to the midwoofer as well.

I must say he did get me two awesome deals on my Mossberg 590A1 LE Magpul and Glock G19 MOS….and the 33rd mags

Heres the link with the guy that prefers the a-pillar over the kick panels for 4th gens. http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/439229-tweeter-mounting.html Post 17 & 24 he explains why he put them there.

I'm confusing myself big time here. Alright so for my drivers I'm running a total of 5. 2 tweeter, 2 midwoofers, 1 subwoofer, this is called 2 way + sub from what your telling me. I feel like an idiot… What was getting me confused is the damn switch on the back of the 9887 it's self, theres 2.2ch(3Way) then 4.2ch(F/R/Sub-W). I'll be honest I was counting the 6 channels and assumed I would be using 3 way…makes sense now that I'm missing the 6th driver…I'm learning, got a lot on my mind with ripping the whole car apart for the restoration. Regarding the tweeters, 4th gen camaros never came with them with a specific mounting location. Instead they had 6.75" coaxials in the doors with the tweeter ran to the factory amp separate form the 6.75" driver it's self. I do have custom made tweeter pods that go where the side view mirrors would be but they face almost straight towards my chest head area…. it's another mounting location though. Also some have put there tweeters in the kick panels. I'll look for some pictures to post up of guys installs to give a better idea of the space and interior environment I'm working with.

No, almost 100% certain it's 3 way. Says to use 2 way with components with passives. Let me check to be sure. Interesting I've heard excellent results with imprint if done a certain way, not the way they say in the manual with the microphone positions all around the interior and other stuffs got to be tweaked her and there with the amps gain to trick the software as it's not that great, they should have left room to manually tune after each run. I read a 35 page review about it on another forum with all the pros and cons, what works, what failed. Some are happy with the results some hate it and say its complete garage zero hope. I fully 100% agree on the tweeter location, I'm not drilling holes in factory a-pillar trim panels just yet.

Heres the frequency response graphs. I'm still learning how to interpret these graphs fully. The Seas graphs confuse me as there is a line on them thats not on Scan-Speaks or SB's midwoofers graphs, I honestly don't know what it is or for. This is one of the reasons I need advice along with the other reasons I already stated, mainly due to imprint, but driver location needs to be correct for my listening environment as well. Last 2 graphs are the Scan-Speak tweeter and Revelator. And I just saw while on Seas website they carry a "high end Line" so they say of drivers specifically made for car audio hmm… Graphs fixed with correct names Seas Prestige CA18RLY 7" Paper Cone 35-3000Hz, 8 ohm Seas Excel W18E-001 7" Magnesium Cone 40-2500Hz, 8 ohm Seas Excel W18NX-001 7" Nextel Paper Cone 30-3000Hz, 8 ohm SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-8, 6.5" Coated Paper Cone Woofer - 8 ohm SB Acoustics SB17CRC35-08 7" Woven Carbon Fiber Woofer 8 ohm Seas Prestige ER18RNX 7" Reed/Paper Cone 45-3000Hz, 8 ohm Seas Prestige L18RNX/P 7" Aluminum 40-2500Hz, 8 ohm Seas Prestige CA18RNX 7" Paper Cone 45-3000Hz, 8 ohm Seas Prestige 27TFFN/G Textile Dome Tweeter with Grill 2.5-30khz 4ohm Scan-Speak Illuminator’s Textile Dome D3004/6020-00, 4 ohm Scan-Speak Revelator 18W/8531G-00 6.5" Paper Cone Woofer, 8 ohm

Man those pictures are awesome for real! How much PSI is running in that high pressure line from the compressor station?

My Camaro is a 1998 Z28 6-Speed with T-Tops. It's undergoing a moderate restoration with severe performance modifications. Right now for part of the deadening I got 150sq. ft of 55mil Butyl rubber on a big role, but thats not all going to be used only certain spots, except the rear trunk/hatch area I dampened the whole thing. The sheet metal back there sounded like a big tin can, I dampened it very well. Still deciding on the mass loaded vinyl and the closed cell foam, from what I read 1/8in. MLV weighs a pound for sq. foot and the CCF is only more added weight. Choices choices… but need to do it right. I bet your Escalade is fun to drive! I love it when they are modified, turns heads thats for sure. How much HP/TQ are you making at the wheels? I could be wrong on this but Cadillac Escalades come from the factory with a good amount of sound deadening in them I believe, did you add more sound deadening to achieve what was except able for your SQ setup?

Weight distribution is a concern, I need to talk to my suspension guy, he's huge into road racing, and how to design a proper suspension, he won 14 national championships so he knows his stuff. I'm running his coil overs he did all the valving on and helped design with UMI and Afco. 600# springs front and 200# springs rear. With that said yes added weight is a concern, especially with moving the battery to the back LH side of the rear and the stealth box is going to go on the RH side where the spare tire and jack used to be, plus the amplifiers with the rack. Then there is the sound deadener thats going down so extra weight is getting put every where. Good news is as far as weight distribution is the whole new suspension is a road racing suspension and is extremely adjustable to help compensate, tweak certain areas, preload certain things etc. A very good point regarding the weight distribution. Almost forgot, either going to resleeve the LS1 block with Darton MID Ductile Iron Wet Sleeves or put an LQ9 iron block bored to 4.03. I save 80-100 pounds off the front doing the resleeving but the weight saved from that costs a lot of money, hell just to get the block machined sleeves installed etc. is basically 3 grand.

Thank you for the recommendation, I'll look into their products.

Thank you all for welcoming me to the forum guys! I feel I will be a nice asset to the community. I am personally looking to learn as much as possible and having some fun doing so.

Trust me I am ready to get it stared and done! First I have to put my fuel pumps in while the interior and everything is out. Going to go with with dual or triple in tank pumps and do the "trap door" which requires me cutting through the sheet metal in the back to access the top of the fuel tank where the fuel sender and opening to the tank is. Dropping the tank in my year camaro is a major PITA. I don't want to install anything audio related yet when my car is going to be reeking of gas fumes. Lol The official camaro restoration log will be put on another site but I can link to it. The audio system build log will be on this site. I might do two whole logs for both sites but man thats a lot of typing, pictures, time, etc. I still have to figure out what mid woofers and tweeters to go with also. Was looking in to the Sea's Prestige and Excel lines, also silver flute, peerless, scan peek. For tweeters was looking into the scan peek illuminators. Still have to get it narrowed down and list some potential options. Main problem is I was planning a SQ build…Well with the camaro getting a cammed out 408 with true dual's that could severely affect SQ so we will see.

Cool, I just saw your location is Arlington, nice area and weather up there. Theres lots of trees, humidity, and mosquitos where I'm at, sucks. Got to love this weather now, best time of year down here, perfect time to start a massive Camaro restoration and system build!

I'm northwest of Cypress. What part of town are you around?

I found the site when searching the web for a subwoofer. After reading numerous threads I decided to go with a 12" XCON over a 12" ICON for my application.