Billy Jack

Ha I never started anything, dude was just an arseho to me for nothing. Just cause I'm not a pro doesn't mean I should be talked down to. Honestly I'm trying to learn, I have installed and used many, many, systems but never had no Idea about how complex some of this stuff is. I knew enough to set them up properly, and set everything, but not all the technical in's and outs. I'm just trying to learn, if I say something stupid it's because I read some bs on the Internet and don't know the correct way. I even tried to explain all this many threads ago and all I got was a smart ass remark and was told I better have thick skin around here. So maybe you guys need to take your own advice and climb down off your high horses. Congratulations you all know more then me about one thing stereo's now if you wanna talk cars or heavy construction that's some subjects I am a pro at and can keep up with anybody. As a matter of fact if you have drove on almost any interstate in the southeast you probably drove across a bridge I built.

It will now.

Why not just stop being a passive aggressive bitch and say what you really mean.

Yea I think I will just throw another HD in it and sell the crescendo. I was gonna use 2 of the crescendo 3500's for a spl build but since I can't ever seem to find another bc3500 to match the one I already have I just gonna sell it and go another way on amps. I have 2 sundown team 12's so I'm gonna need a couple of decent size amps or one monster amp. I prefer the 2 smaller amps cause it's easier to buy one at a time instead of saving up for one big lump of money. Plus it's easier to sell cheaper amps then huge high dollar amps. Or atleast where I live it is.

Has anyone ever seen a JL audio HD1200/1 amp dyno'd. I'm just curious as to what kind of power they actually produce. Seems like every other amp in existence has been tested except the HD and slash 1200's. I'm guessing but I would think they do slightly over rated like 1250watts just curious if anyone has tested them or knows for sure.

I really wish I had saved my Phoenix gold M100 and M50 those where the best sounding amps I have ever had including my current JL and my last Zapco's. Maybe it was the good old AB power or just my old ass ears but I haven't been able to match that system since for sq. I ran 3 12w6v1's in a 4 cubic foot box sealed in a tiny Toyota hatchback. Judges seemed to like it to.

Thermally it want do nothing but I popped those fuses a couple of times and never blew the speakers. Hell I ran them in the 90's and there still in the top of my closet in working order. The first time I blew them I thought it was just a light for decoration and popped it and the second time was dogging it at a competition. I ran them off a Phoenix gold M50 for years.

I went and looked and they where MB Quartz 61/2 components and they have a light for a fuse so when you overpower the system the power is sent into the light instead of the speaker to avoid blowing your speaker. I may not be a pro but this is one time I know I'm right m5.

I have never used these speakers but I assure you the ones I had where fused and if you went over there rms they would blow the fuse and it had to be replaced to work again. I thought this was asomething they still did just used a resistor or something instead of a fuse. I guess they just filter out frequencies now right. But I know they do take more power then say a active set so unless you go crazy it's gonna be hard to over power a good set anyways. I would assume they would destort and sound like poop if they where in danger.

If your running a component set with passive crossovers it shouldn't matter how much over rms you are cause the resistors will block anything over what ever it's set up for. I had a set once that had fuses that lit up when they reached max rms and you knew you didn't need any more power.

Are you suggesting I just clamp it? Didn't you just say that wasn't accurate either? So how in the hell do people test these amps then? Oscope and meters or what? I honestly always thought you just used a meter and a scope and watch for a clipped signal and plug the numbers and get your answer am I wrong? Ow and I don't have a scope so I can't do it myself and I don't even think the local audio shop has one.

I looked throught tons of pages just to see if I could find anything relating to either of my amps and didn't see a thing. I did see where they tested the synergy wtf1.5 and some sundown stuff but nothing on my JL or crescendo 3500. And yes I know it makes no audible difference if it did 1200 or 1500 I just wanted to know cause I'm on the fence about buying another HD1200 for my second sub or just switch out them for the crescendo BC 3500. If they both do exactly what they say then it probably wouldn't be any difference either way. I would assume 2400 watts of JL power would be real close to a crescendo bc3500 at 1.5ohm. Could I atleast get a opinion on if it was you guys what you would do.

If it's a stupid question to you just don't answer. Not all of us are pros and we gotta start somewhere and make mistakes to learn. Did I post in the expert section or something? I honestly was just curious how much the amp dyno'd compared to my crescendo 3500. But no sweat I will figure it out on my own.

Ow and feel free to block me boot me I honestly could give a flying fuck. Only answers you get here are little smart ass comments so what's the point? No wonder in all of the world there is like 12 people on here.

Your about a pucking smartass. I asked a simple question in as nice a way as I could and you reply I should think. If thinking could answer my question I wouldn't even have asked. Don't worry dick head I want ask anything else. You are what's wrong with the bass head community you can't just comment or not comment you gotta act like your the uppity expert and where all stupid just for asking. How can Arron be so polite and helpful and you be such a dick and stay employed or in business. I own a business and even if a customer asked me a dumb question which they do sometimes I wouldn't reply by demeaning them that's just not good business.

I just watched a video of a guy clamping a amp and comparing it to the amp dyno and it was dead on so what's the actual problem with it if you don't mind me asking?

Really, so why do pro's even buy and use them? Do they just not know better. Almost hard to believe they aren't accurate at testing voltage and frequencie. They gotta be pretty close cause every amp I have seen tested did close to rated and some better or worse depending on the brand. Like the zapco, sundowns etc did slightly over and some of the cheaper stuff did a lot less. You sure this ain't just bad blood between you guys and tony?

Yes I know it doesn't show real world, in car on music results, but it does give you a base line on sign waves, to compare it to other amps. And I pretty much knew it does rated I was just curios if they did anymore.

I think ssa is having trouble with their server, but don't quote me on that but I think that's what somebody posted. I know last week it kicked me off and it took me a couple of days to remember my password and I tried resetting it but it would not work and I tried several times but it never sent a email. And yes I checked spam, garbage, and every other folder but it never came through but luckily I remembered it.

Some high end sq guys use the alpine 800 with the seperate crossover controller to make a double din they stack them. It looks like you have 2 head units but they sound awesome and have a ton of control. But they are pricey like $800 I think.

Yes you need the same size battery's or the weaker one will drain the stronger battery. And I always hook up my amps to the battery in the trunk that way you have shorter runs of wire for maximum power. And you always want to have it secured or other wise it could make contact with some metal and catch fire. Myself I ran one hot wire from my front battery to the rear and grounded my 2nd battery in the trunk with the same grounding point as my amp. But I also ran 2 grounds for my amp as JL recommended. Now my 2 battery's aren't identical but they are they are very similar in size and I haven't had the first problem. You also want to fuse both ends of your hot wire and also have a fuse between your rear battery and your amp other wise you could short out and have a real problem on your hand.

Perfect timing I was just about to build a box for my 2 JL13w7's and order some second skin for my trunk. Just did the doors a few days ago.

^ See when I clean out all the dead hookers from my trunk the 6 cubic foot box and 2 tiny amps will fit. Lol

I need to know what the best size box would be for a JL 13w7 for spl. I have always heard most manufacturers give smaller then optimal size requirements just to sell subs and to lower power handling so they have less warranty claims. Looking for anybody who has experience with these subs who can tell me what's the best cubic feet to get the max out of these subs. I'm running them off the JL HD1200/1's in a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T. Pretty big trunk just small opening may have to build box in place. I want to run ported for more output but still be musical. Also need to know tuning.

Just went to you tube and saw a VW Passat with a 6' cubic foot ported box in the trunk and yea it's a big box but that's ok I wanna use every inch anyways to fit my box. But I will definetly have to build it in place to get any where near 6 foot. It's ok if it's slightly smaller as JL only recommends 2.3 anyways as long as the tuning is correct.