Billy Jack

Well I was in a hurry and didn't see anything that covered what I was asking so I just quickly picked one under off topic. I got a response didn't I? Remember I from the old school of, fuck it close enough, shit ain't that serious. Don't sweat the small shit man, you will live longer.

It's not reading comprehension fail, if you don't even read it, which I didn't. I just hit the button to get on with it.

Ow ok. Yea man if you care about your stuff, I would wire to high, then to low. You can't hurt a thing going higher, but your asking a lot of your amp going lower. Your amp will be safe, and you get the added sound quility to boot, all your giving up is a tiny bit of wattage which you probably want hear a difference anyways.

This is sound advise (pun intended). Think of impedence like a pipe, and a amp trying to feed water, (rms) to this pipe, and current as water pressure. As you play music this pipe is getting bigger and smaller all the while your amp is trying to supply enough water to keep it full, so even if you slow the rate of flow it's gonna have a hard time keeping the pipe full (current). I have seen it done but sometimes it causes heat and failure.

You also answered your own question. If it's set safe, then obviously it's not gonna over heat if very little current is going through it, so what exactly is your question, or are you just looking for confirmation?

Cause there isn't a section for other audio websites so I put it under off topic and not sure about the 123 thing just hit it I guess to get to the point.

Sounds like a decent amp to me. Reliable, efficient, not overly complex or expensive, what's not to love.

I like their stuff, and if you look on the iasca and meca site they where big in the comps a couple of years ago them DD, and Alfred is mostly what all the top guys are using for subs. Or at least that's how it reads anyways.

Yes I'm looking at the Quattro 4 channel, it's a H class amp. And M5 I have ran plenty of AB style amps, my Phoenix gold M100, and M50, where AB style amps, and yes they sounded great. And I want to try something a little different, never had a H class amp, that I know of. See there you go, assuming you know something about me you obviously don't.

What is A/B?

Competitors wire low because they can actually measure there impedence changes, and still be safely in the recommended range. But their playing sign waves not 100 different kinds of music. I never ever wire below impedence your basically shorting the amp out at certain frequency's.

Ow, and have you never heard a cheap amp actually put out sound directly from the board without a sub, or speaker even hooked to it. lol I have, it was one of those old surf board rockwoods, you could actually hear music coming from the amp its self lmao but of course that's not what I meant but it did come to mind.

Well it was a entire B2 system in a Lexus. The highs, mids, where crisp, accurate, and loud as hell, but didn't fatigue your ears, The noise floor was nearly inaudible. The bass was extremely loud, and very accurate for 15 inch subs. They where hitting just as hard as my subs, but sounded so much better, and played a wider frequency then mine, but that could just be the box, but I don't think so, and they blended very nice with the mids. The amps looked really well built, had nice connections, and just looked very solid, compared to some of the Korean stuff. They looked nice with the plexi glass tops showing there guts. Now I'm no expert, but I know enough to be able to tell a cheap amp, from a decent amp. And I'm not saying, ow there the greatest, or anything like that, just figured I would give one a try, since I was looking to upgrade my 4 channel anyways. I already know I will hear a difference just from the fact I'm going from 45 watts a channel, to over a 100watts. I need to build a amp rack, and mount them properly, but it's hard to get time to do anything but work. I'm actually more interested in the amps power, and reliability, more then anything. I know I would never be able to tell one amp for another, if everything was the same but there not, I'm more then doubling my power which will lead to less distortion, and hopefully better overall sound. I was more speaking of the entire B2 system, then any one component.

I don't know Chance, does he work for GP or something. And I wished you guys (SSA) carried B2, I seen and heard, one of there amps recently, and I was highly impressed with the build quality, and sound it made. I been looking to upgrade my alpine power pack, with a real full size 4 channel, so I'm gonna give B2 a try.

So there no BS Merica wire is really welding wire with GP stuck on it. Maybe they should leave off the "no" and just call it BS wire.

How old is the NS1 I could really use it to power my two team Sundown 12's but I gotta sell this crescendo Bc3500 first or would you be interested in a trade with some boot.

I would run it for a temporary setup just check the coils and see if it's any good and get a idea of it impedence.

Yep wrong topic sorry.

Yea unless you have the sub inverted, you will never even know the surround is dry rotted, until it actually gives up the ghosts. I wouldn't waste my money until it goes.

I'm not positive, but it kind of reminds me of the old hifonics square Brutus x subs, but not sure. Either way just measure the impedence of the coil, and wire accordingly.

Are you asking how to get Incriminator to sponsor you? If so, I would imagine they would have to see you at comps, or shows, and see you as a up and comer, and approach you. Highly doubt you could just call up and get free stuff. Had a friend years ago that was sponsored by US amps, and he had been in competitions for years, and was ranked. I think the only thing they did was supply him with amps. The rest of his system, he either paid for, or the shop he worked at gave it to him at cost.

Cool I like the box. And that port is cool looking to definetly different I have only seen those on factory boxes.

If they can survive MN weather North Carolina should be no problem.