Florida_Audio

ok lets start here.... i just took off door panels. i could not figure out the negative terminal on my battery. there were 2 nuts or bolts, or whatever, things holding the negative portion in place. and neither one seemed to work with disconnecting. so i still took off door panels. but did not disconnect anything electrical on them. just took them off a few inches. and i took a few pics of what i could. it seems like they put the 1 ft by 1 ft, dynamat sound deadener over the birch wood speaker spacer... which should help protect the speaker spacer from moisture i hope. but i could not tell if they used a gasket tape for the speakers. which i wanted to look for. but the deadener is covering that area. not sure if it was happening before i just took off panels. but the rear speakers in my car are NOT working at all now. i tried using the fader on headunit and changing other settings, and putting headunit to default, and still no rear speaker volume.... but i changed the tweeter attenuation on the passive crossover to -4b. it seemed to help a slight bit. not much. the lowest setting is -6 db. i will probably change it to that later. but the door panels came off very easy. just extremely difficult to line up properly to place them back on. any reason why the rear speakers worked before. but now they dont? they worked after the shop installed the amp , headunit, and front speakers. and the front speakers are hooked up to the amp. the rear speakers should just be hooked up to the headunit. and the rear speakers are factory. wondering if the rear speakers could have blown from something? or maybe when i opened the door panels in the front, it somehow messed with wiring for the rear speakerS? i highly doubt the front panels affected them though.... and heres the images of what i could take. sorry for horrible angle...

true. makes sense. thanks. im looking into disconnecting the car battery now... pretty sure i should do this? even though im only taking off the panel i dont think the air bags are in the panel... but idk. i guess its better to be safe?

even just taking off the panels to see the install? i wont be installing or removing anything? i do want to take the panel off the set the tweeter attenuation at -2 db or -4 db to see how it changes things. i actually was thinking about this before you mentioned it. yea i am scarred of people seeing it and thinking hey lets steal this shit. but i dont know if it will look too inviting if im just taking panels off for 30 min? could look like im just changing the door handle or something?

thanks. yea im going to them tomorrow. made appointment. when i told him theres hissing in the speakers. he said, "well you remember you asked us to raise the gain twice to make it louder for you". i told him immediately that we never even discussed the gains when i was there... super shady. immediately defensive over it and its a lie. ill see when i go there....

ok yes, i will see if i can take off my door panel tomorrow morning. my bad. i cdidnt think about that as in setup. yes you did mention pictures. sorry. thanks ! i hope its not very difficult to take off the panel. i would probably only have to disconnect one or two cables? i dont have room at all in apartment parking spaces its difficult to even open my doors in the narrow parking. i will see what i can do

what do you mean by setup? like this? 2013 hyundai elantra coupe. front component speakers, alpine SPR 60c amplifier is Pioneer GM-D8604 and headunit is alpine 164bt 4 gauge knu koncepts amp kit wire

im debating between a 10 inch and a 12 inch subwoofer ive looked up dcon and am possibly interested. but sort of just want some okay quality bass. nothing too crazy, and on quite a budget. i realized a cheap box can be around 40 bucks?

yes i will, thank you. is it unreasonable to expect them to fix the noise issue for free? or at the very least look at it for free? this manager seems very shady with pricing. extremely misleading. more or less a bait and switch tactic

true. im just afraid to break something. i somewhat figured since they do it all the time and many years experience it would be a safer way to do things. and if they did notice an obvious mistake then they would fix it. they took 5 hours to do 2 front component speakers, a 4 channel amp, only 2 of these channels went to front speakers. and a new head unit. the amount of time it took makes me think they should have done a thorough job, maybe, maybe not

ok thanks. ill call them up soon and make sure they are aware of whats happening. even if its something simple as an amp gain i guess ill tell them to look at it before i touch it, so they cant say its my fault. if they dont fix it for free. i will not go back there ever again. nor will i suggest it to any1. its really horrible how this place was. they seemed like nice people. but the business aspect was horrible. they told me it would be $235 to install everything a few weeks ago when i was calling around asking for prices. then when i called 1 week ago they said around $250. then when i went in person they said $250 to $300. then after the install he told me it was $375... because $20 for RCA, and $15 for each speaker spacer, made out of material that i told them not to use. and tax. and some stupid $10 miscellaneous charge.... i will have to learn about this stuff and mess with it if they dont own up to their mistake. unless theres anything else i can do? this is why i did not want to do it myself lol. cause i wanted to have it done well. and not have to worry about any issues that i would need to fix. i thought they were professionals.

alpine 164 bt , i made sure to get at least a 4 v preamp. not sure if this is why you are asking though? yea..... a local shop. they sort of pissed me off. initially told me would take 3 hours over the phone. i knew this was way too short of an estimate. but then when i got to the shop, they said 3 to 4 hours. then when i was waiting it took 5 hours. i sat in waiting room. the store sells only car audio equipment and does some window tinting on the side. i spoke with the installer briefly about certain things. such as dont use wooden spacers unless u treat them to be waterproof. he said yea we will use plastic ABS then. he ends up saying he cut out birch wood. well i thought it was fine. but apparently any wood needs to be treated. and i have this hissing noise. i even tipped the dude 20 bucks. not alot. but still. i figured since he took 5 whole hours to do it, he deserved something. ill call the manager on tuesday, when the installer should be in again and tell them about the hissing. they better at least take a look for free. how much of a trouble is it to check the ground? how long might this take to do? 20 min? 1 hour? its just the ground for the amplifier right? and is it possible its just that the gains are set too high on the amp? the dude secured the amp in my trunk, attached behind my backs seat. its a bit in a corner. and i think the gain controls are in a very tight spot. i would need to take the amp off the back seat to see the gain controls. i wonder how he even attached the amp to the back seat? and how would i re attach it, if it is the gains? ive heard people mention, if the hissing stays the same volume at all volumes. or if the hissing increases as the volume increases. my hissing does increase alot as the volume increases. but like i said u cannot hear the hissing when music is playing. although when the music stops, the hissing is there and it sounds pretty bad.

do u mean the parts? brand and model

Do birch wood speaker spacers need to be waterproofed? i went to local installer and they said they would use MDF and not waterproof them, just paint them with regular paint. but i said i would need them waterproofed so they dont soak up water so they went ahead and used birch wood speaker spacer instead. these fine, if not waterproofed or treated? and i heard these woods have harmful chemicals in them? or is that only when cutting them? and should be fine if installed in car, but not being cut?

ok thanks. any chance i might need some special tools to take off door panel? i heard maybe something to slide between the panel to help pry it off? or something else? or should just be simple hidden screws?

what could have gone wrong? i dont have a subwoofer yet. i made a thread about that. and will be getting a subwoofer later but for now i just got the SPR 60C, alpine type R components the midbass is like gone. my cheapo stock speakers had slightly more midbass than these... they are powered by a pioneer amp, GM-D8604 what could be wrong? or are components supposed to have barely any bass whatsoever.... its pretty bad. the highs are very clear. a bit too harsh highs but when i set the headunit to EQ the bass up, the bass sounds bad, slight increase in bass, but pretty bad quality bass? The gain on the amp is set a bit over halfway of its max edit: the speakers are rated at 110 RMS each. so is it possible that because the amps gain is set around halfway, thats causing the midbass to barely be there? im still a bit confused about how RMS, and the amplifiers gain work? i assume, that turning the amps gain to like 90% but lowering the volume on the head unit should have better bass, than if i had the amps gain set to 55% and have the head unit volume higher? is the amps gain, just a measure of RMS? which means how loud the speakers get per unit of volume in the head unit? or is there more to it?

they were bolted in after a birch wood speaker spacer was placed. and a 1 ft by 1 ft sheet of dynamat deadener. was just something quick to add behind speaker.

so they are pretty much the same as mdf. and as far as being light. when u say they need more mass? is that just to prevent it from moving? and i guess the only way i can think of to add weight, is some heat resistant clay? ok thanks. yea says to wait 24 hours to cure. if i were to do this. id just open door panels. unscrew speakers. and spray the birch wood with this and then wait 24 hours, and then rescrew the speakers and spacers in? should take less than 2 min to unscrew speakers and such. but maybe 5 min to take off door panels? should be super easy?

what should i post about the install? i actually just replayed a few songs. i realized the midbass really only makes good punches during very low bass parts of the songs. otherwise the midbass doesnt really make much sound. i guess it sounds pretty good. i think the highs just overpower the midbass too much when i raise the volume too. the highs are quite harsh at mid to high volumes. but at low volumes it sounds great. is it best to lower the high frequency in the headunit EQ, or should i low the high frequency at the crossover? its a passive crossover i believe. and ive heard people say to set the crossover for the tweeter at -2 db? is this easy to do? just take off door panel and use a screwdriver to adjust the crossover?

ok thanks. ill see in a bit of time. yea thats like the only way to tell. but also just wondering if any1 has had experience with birchwood

ok thanks. i cant find anything anywhere that talks about birch wood as a speaker spacer all birch wood talk is about building boats and stuff... lol obviously with a boat, water is a greater concern but with my speaker spacer, im wondering if i should be worried? i specifically said dont do MDF, unless you waterproof coat the wood they said okay we will use plastic spacer. but then when i get my car they said they used birch wood.... im pretty sure birch is better than MDF as far as water issues. but im still worried i wonder if it really is better than MDF as far as moisture issues, and why is it better? im in florida, with high humidity all day and year round.... and it rains often. so im concerned

yeap i did the same thing. i made the mistake of not reading it as RMS although some websites do list their zeus hifonics in RMS, even though its not actually rated in RMS sonic electronix did this... misleading

ok thanks for explaining

ok thanks. it looks like its a 400 Watt RMS subwoofer? would that still sound okay if my amp can only do up to 300 RMS? what do you mean a pre fab ? and i thought ported enclosures sound better overall?

be aware the zues amps are not rated in RMS i made this mistake. it should still output some decent wattage. but not 1800 RMS

definitely not okay to loose a channel. just saying alot of reviews said this on amazon only. but just wondering about any1s opinion if they see something in product details that i dont? or any1 have any experience with this type of amp? weird its so cheap?