gerront

Yes it will work just fine.....less likely to flex since there is less wood there....but i always like to double the front face using two sheets of 3/4" MDF....never will flex, has more grip for the speakers screws.......but ill leave that up to you!!!!

If this is going into a trunk then i would suggest having the port and the speaker both facing the rear of the vehicle....firing the sub or port up will only cause more rattling and will hurt your sound......Looking at it from the rear of your vehicle put the sub on the left(driver side) and the port on the right(passenger side).....

Sounds like you would be better off getting a 15" Fi Q Dual 2 ohm. You will have better adjustability in designing a proper enclosure.....rather than just squeezing by to make the 18" work....

Yeah, i saw that on kinetiks page...i have absolutely nowhere to put those huge batteries...I actually dont have the blue-top anymore, it was sold so ill be running one hc1800 under the hood, and 4 hc1400 in the rear....(should be here this tuesday) i have done the big three some what i had to use a heavy 4 awg from the alternator to battery but the rest is all 0 awg. I hope with the new batteries im getting it will help some, but my intentions are to trade off my amps for something alot more efficient...preferably the sundown 3000's..."cha-ching"!!! Running two of those amps would be great, but they are too costly for me right now. But with all that said my electrical system is pretty stiff i would say considering what i have pulling on it.....it only drops down to around 10.5 volts when it is at full tilt on a bass solo for about a minute....majority of the time (daily) its around it wont go below 11.2volts......(which i know isnt great)....

Well this is my first post, as well as my first purchase ive made with Fi CAr Audio. My 4 15's will be here in a couple of days,..my amps are installed,...the box it built.....the car has been heavily sound deadened......Do i need to break in the subs before i really see what they can do? If i do or if you recommend that i do what are the procedures in doing so and doing it properly.....Any help would be greatly app. Also what would the power handling be on the SSD 15 Dual 1 ohm if it was upgraded with the copper coil and bp power option? They say it will raise the power handling from 200=500 watts depending on application? What determines that? My box is about 10 cu ft and tuned to about 36hertz? Again any help would be greatly app. Thanks guys and thanks Fi, Gerron T.

Sounds like the sub wasnt sitting at rest when you measured the resistance....you'll need to make sure nothing is touching the cone/surround of the woofer ( like if you flipped it upside down and set it on a table with the surround touching, it will give a false reading). If its a dual 2 ohm woofer, then you will need to wire the sub in parallel....positive to positive / negative to negative = out to amplifier.

working on that now...got 2 more batteries on the way then when i get sum extra cheese soon im biuying two more....hopefully that will help me out having 5 batteries......

Yes i have all the pics in the show off/photography forum on here listed as toyota 4runner build part 1 and part 2

i think your right on the enclosure...but ive got them packed n there now as it is.....

it wont line up? You didnt drop it? you were driving when it happened? were you in an accident? lol j/k Sounds like you need to have the pros look at it? Did the coil come unraveled?

well that amp does real power around 600watts at its lowest ohm rating. I nice 8 gauge wire will work fine. Amp cant pull more than 60 amps on a stock power system soooooo 4 awg would be overkill but still a good thing. Also keep in mind buying MEMPHIS products online can only be warrantied by the people you bought it from. They do not authorize internet sells and will not warranty anything bought online. As far as the LOC goes ive always used the PAC products for that....the SNI-15 would be a good one for your application...10:1 reduction with a fixed output...

Good luck my friend i hope you can hunt down the problem.....

ummm k

looking at replacing my two MA Audio HK802sx Amps for two hcca 2500's possibly...... http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 I know this company has been taken over by directed elelctronics...and all the orion products arent what they used to be but....ive installed several of there new Cobalt series amps and speakers in customers vehicles and they all seem to perform very very well for the price.....so i was hoping someone had some insight on there new hcca 2500 model...... The amps i have now work great, but i only had one amp at first......then i upgraded from 8 memphis 12's to 4 Fi SSD 15's w/ bp power option and copper coils Dual 1 ohm and added a 2nd amp......wow what a huge difference in power consumption.......Hoping that going from a high current amp to a class d amp will make a big difference........ If anybody knows of another couple amps to get that will do the job...please let me know....and since this is my daily driver and not my SPL vehicle my budget for amps will be around 1200-1400 dollars.....\ Holla Back people!!!!!!! Thanks for lookin' Gerront aka 4Runner

You have all that equipment hooked to a factory radio??? Motor noise can be caused by alot of things...i do mean alot....People end up pulling there hair out trying to find the problem.... -bad rca jacks tend to be the most common... -rca jacks that have been ran arcoss the top of a gas tank that has a electric fuel pump... -bad grounds..... -bad spark plug wires believe it or not...can cause feedback to come through the power wires..... -bad radio..... -the converter used on a factory radio isnt grounded properly.... -cold solder joints on rca input jacks.... -and im sure ive missed a few.... Id start with the least expensive fix and go from there.......

Pictures of the subs are on part 2 of the post,..had to post 2 times for all the pictures i had......but i used Fi SSD 15" subs dual 1 ohm w/BP power option and copper coils.......

The amps are inside the box,...the boards components have been secured down with the infamous "hot glue" to prevent them from rattling loose....the amps are also sitting on rubber feet also to help dampen the vibrations...i was skeptical myself at first, but amps are solid as a rock now and do not rattle/shake/vibrate...nothing...this wasnt my first choice, but i had no other option at the time.....

HATER-VISION IS WHAT I LIKE TO CALL IT........LOL BUT THANKS

HA HA YEAH MADE IT RAIN FOR SOMEBODY AT "FI".......YES THOSE ARE JUST REGULAR STEEL BOLTS......THIS WILL BE CHANGED OUT WHEN IM ABLE TO GET ME SOME MORE BATTERIES.....

TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST THE REST OF THE PICTURES? THIS IS MY FIRST TIME DOING THIS SOOOOO......

Id also go for the BL's....should sound good and can only get better with a larger/cleaner amplifier......

ok thanks guys.....but still what about the orion amp???? kinda lost subject....

Yes you are right, the 16 volt side of the battery would need to be tied in with the 16v alternator and everything else on the vehicle side would have to go to the 12 volt side.....Ive read up on it and considered doing it but,...from what i understand that is correct......

I dont know what it is thats messed up......from what they say after a repair has been made on a pioneer radio ...the paperwork says..."located and replaced open coil in circuit".....so i dont really know exactly where to begin.....without a proper schematic which pioneer will never gve to you, it would have to go to a repair center. Try calling or emailing a company called "united radio service" http://198.66.219.68/yourservicecenter/ Hope you find an answer id love to know what to replace.....