gerront

I dont think people are syaing there looked down on at all. There saying that if you buy one and its said to hold 800 watts rms...its underated and can easily take more power than that with no problem. I have recently installed one of my Fi subs i own (15" fully loaded) in a single ported box and i am currently running a Kicker ZX2500.1 on it, with the gains at 3/4 and it still seems to want more....lol For what you are doing. I HIGHLY recommend the SSD's, you will be more than happy that the output these subs can produce. I would do a sealed box and try to squeeze it out to about 1.4cu.ft. so after speaker displacement you will end up right where Fi recommends it to be. As far as the 500 watts goes..It will work, but you can double that and be even more impressed. Hope this helps.

Reg. ol' 3/4"

Thanks.....

Well here is what i got done today..... Got the amp hooked up and give it a test fire and man this thing is humpin'....... Ill try and get a Vid tomorrow once the glue has had time to dry. Let me know what you guys think.......

WOW, best vid ive seen on here in a long time!!!! Ill be signing autographs in no time!!!! Thanks for the awesome video.....

Glad i could help!!!

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle. Yes, if you don't mind. I already have it apart. Uploading pictures now. Truck is in sig. Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Trigger Pink Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue Here you go pal, hope this helps.... I have an orange wire unconnected, i remember hooking everything up and not remembering where it goes so i left it undone. I also have a black wire unconnected. Orange should be where your yellow wire goes, but if that wire is bad (reasoning for running a new wire) then you need to just cover it up. Black should ground,.......should. Wait, i don't follow.. Is the yellow wire coming from the truck bad? or the wire coming from the head unit bad? Do i change the orange with the yellow or not? Cover what up? EDIT: Also, there is a black wire from my head unit that isn't connected.. Should i ground that (guessing it is a ground wire) Also, what should i do about the black wire coming from the truck? Ok. The yellow wire from your kenwood needs to be connected to a constant 12 volt wire (stays hot all the time). The orange wire in the vehicle should be the constant 12 volt wire, but it could be bad or a fuse could be blown for that wire. You mentioned someone ran a new hot wire from the battery to the radio......this wire...whatever color it may be needs to be connected to the yellow wire on the kenwood. The red wire on the kenwood needs to be connected to a wire that cuts on/off with the ignition key. The "factory" vehicle wire should be yellow. Yellow wire from kenwood to batt wire Yellow wire from truck to red wire from kenwood Correct? Yes. Correct. That should fix your problem as long as all the wires are good. Hope this helps....im going to bed. lol

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle. Yes, if you don't mind. I already have it apart. Uploading pictures now. Truck is in sig. Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Trigger Pink Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue Here you go pal, hope this helps.... I have an orange wire unconnected, i remember hooking everything up and not remembering where it goes so i left it undone. I also have a black wire unconnected. Orange should be where your yellow wire goes, but if that wire is bad (reasoning for running a new wire) then you need to just cover it up. Black should ground,.......should. Wait, i don't follow.. Is the yellow wire coming from the truck bad? or the wire coming from the head unit bad? Do i change the orange with the yellow or not? Cover what up? EDIT: Also, there is a black wire from my head unit that isn't connected.. Should i ground that (guessing it is a ground wire) Also, what should i do about the black wire coming from the truck? Ok. The yellow wire from your kenwood needs to be connected to a constant 12 volt wire (stays hot all the time). The orange wire in the vehicle should be the constant 12 volt wire, but it could be bad or a fuse could be blown for that wire. You mentioned someone ran a new hot wire from the battery to the radio......this wire...whatever color it may be needs to be connected to the yellow wire on the kenwood. The red wire on the kenwood needs to be connected to a wire that cuts on/off with the ignition key. The "factory" vehicle wire should be yellow. The black wire on the kenwood does need to be connected to a ground or something metal in the vehicle. But the black wire from the vehicle should be the ground wire, so id tie those two together. The radio has probably been getting its ground from the antenna wire.......not recommended!!! Remember....ANY wire that are not being used or connected...cover them up with tape or a butt connector

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle. Yes, if you don't mind. I already have it apart. Uploading pictures now. Truck is in sig. Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Trigger Pink Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue Here you go pal, hope this helps.... I have an orange wire unconnected, i remember hooking everything up and not remembering where it goes so i left it undone. I also have a black wire unconnected. Orange should be where your yellow wire goes, but if that wire is bad (reasoning for running a new wire) then you need to just cover it up. Black should ground,.......should.

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle. just match color for color, unless you are wiring directly into the cars factory wiring and not a into car harness He mentioned the harness was cut.....

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle. Yes, if you don't mind. I already have it apart. Uploading pictures now. Truck is in sig. Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Trigger Pink Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue Here you go pal, hope this helps....

LOL good stuff. Would you like a wiring guide to make sure everything else is connected right? You know make sure your speakers arent out of phase and what not? Just need to know year, make and model of the vehicle.

Since the yellow wire holds your memory by staying hot all of the time, its surely connected to the switched 12v source. By having it done this way, it will cut off and on like how it should, but not hold the memory. The red and yellow wires are probably just backwards.

Thanks, i think i got lucky on the fit....worked out nice though.

Here is a what i did in my Toyota. Using a PAC universal bass knob. Popped out a blank and the Pac piece fit perfect in its place.......with a little hot glue....lol

Mtx has always made good power...i always go by the fuse ratings on amplifiers to determine there "real" power....in my experience you get about 100 est. watts for every 10 amps being pulled = 120 amps would be more like 1200 watts...but that would be at full load and keeping your voltage at 14.4....

The mofo's are heavily built for looks...the voicecoils overheat very easily, even when applied properly, they do not hold the power they are rated for..id say at least a 50% increase of B.S. The excursion.....is not there, the durability is not there, and the service is not there.......

Pionner, Alpine, and Nakamichi in my opinon are some of the best sounding radios you can use....as long as you get one of there "nicer" radios and not one of there entry level HU's......

No you really do have to pay for shipping now....but the price of the woofers have gone down so it makes up for it.....just do a fake checkout and you will see your shipping cost

ok, well in my experience of installing alarms...they do have constant power on them...but they shouldnt pull hardly anything with the alarm armed or not ? If you think its the alarm then it is most assured gone bad. But dont put the blame on the alarm just yet...think back to see if you had anything else done to your car...alternator, amplifier, radio, etc........Problem could be elsewhere.....

hmmm check your rca output on your radio!! Run a different signal into the amp and see what happens....

spl = sound pressure level You should do a search on the big three...the forum has answers everywhere if you just do a quick search...

Yes it will fix all that....but its really not gonna hurt anything if you dont.....

The output signal from your rcas is cutting on before the amplifier in the cd player does or before it has time to - in a sense, "heat up". Just my guess?...Correct me if im wrong though.......