Sencheezy

I wouldn't. First thing that comes to mind is heat. with this much power level, A) it generates a lot of heat, coming from the sub and if he doesn't invert, then even more heat is kept inside the box, this heat can catch fire with the poly lol. And then B) all the pressure would probable blow away the poly through the port, I mean, I guess he could glue it down, but again, I wouldn't advise it.

So, I've worked with zcons, and I've worked with 10" port. To tune low with that port is going to be your biggest challenge. It has to be long, and the box has to be big for a tune around 32hz. Your port area is already given, only thing to change now is tuning and port length. Use this http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html Also, you want to use 10" minimum for the loading surfaces, and both ends of the port. Keep that in mind as well. Also, be sure you calculate the NET volume. My port takes up a cube by itself.

I don't see the drilled out holes on the lower part of the basket for added cooling. Do you think this won't be an issue. I know some companies use them, some don't.

nice

nice car

Well, with great responses so far from the etho, than just go with the underhung design. Although, more sq people bwould desire the mmag design by the way you described the differences. But at the moment, I believe more people are looking for more bass at a lesser price.

Very impressive wow

When both coils are wired up.. doubt it Quentin stated before if he were to rate these thermally it would be closer to 2500wrms per sub so a ~7k on 5k worth of subs is fine. And like Jon said, can't beat the price to performance! The drivers need 1800 watts to reach xmax in their recommended enclosures. The recommended power ratings I give are what are needed to be operate the sub. I'll never give a max "safe" power level. That's kinda like a car manufacturer saying its ok to run your car right below redline all the time. What was the context of the conversation you mentioned 2,500wrms? I know i remember you saying that. Of course variables in an install can alter suggested power ratings rated on a thermal level and you are rating them differently which is fine but i know you mentioned 2500w before in conversation. Now you got me questioning in what context it was mentioned in. 2500 rms free air on 200hz tone for 20 mins with -2db compression

cheers mate

No need for cardboard, just take measurements. Measure 3 times too lol. And don't every round up.

If you have No concern with money, no concern with weight, and no concern with space. yes

I would chose the magnatar, out of all the options listed. The tinsel lead is failing, according to fi, it's the amp output signal causing the damage. That is the reason he gave me for my evil failing.

Ok great, I will continue to review the information at hand to obtain a better understanding.

Q of .5 Q of .7 Q of 1 You can see here the "knee" impious is referring to.

http:// www.reocities.com/ kreskovs/ Box-Q.html There is the link, take away the spaces.

You are right, there are not enough true 12" setups out there to reflect or use as an starting point. This will be experimental through trial and error to get the sound I am looking for and am comfortable with. I will definitely appreciate your help when it is time to install. Thanks for the recommendations sir! I looked into all of the mentioned. I am actually, thanks to you, am currently on bidding on a JBL product, starting at 160$ bid hehe Although, I think I will need more power than the JL can through out, but that may not be the case. Depending on the final ohm load I can achieve with whatever speaker and my zed Leviathan amp. Yes I have confirmed the space I have available. Should be plenty as the front region of the speaker is where the leg space is, me being skinny, I can come out a pretty good distance with whatever speaker is chosen. Yes, I am looking for the 12", mainly because it is something different. And that is what I want. I want that wow factor, but also to sound good while doing it, not just the wow factor in itself. If it is not Auditorium quality sound, I am ok with that. The car is the worst place for a speaker to be placed is, so I will take my compromise where I can. The reason for this thread, is for other users to get some ideas as well I understand Horns are not full range, and that why I am looking for a mid-bass driver that can play high enough, to mat with the horns. Obviously, the higher the better. I will start off at 1k and work from there. If I can't get the midbass play high enough, I will then try to EQ the gap. Again, to reiterate, yes, focusing on a smaller driver and optimizing it's implementation will be better, and superior than trying to fit an 12", but for my personal desire, I am wanting/choosing to get a bigger woofer inside. I just don't want said woofer to sound like ass, and hopefully score me atleast an 60 while competing. Yes I know that's a shitty score for SQ comp, based out of 100, but no one else is scoring that high with the ability to score high on the SPL meter as well. Which is my primary goal for this year. Thanks no so much to J-roadtatts, I have now began much research to have a better founding understanding, of the acoustical properties of an driver and it's implementation. I am not far more informed, of what drivers to use, and their associated environments. I have also gained a better understanding of the Equalization process. I hope I have cleared some of the responses in this thread and in no way or shape am I rejected anybody's suggestions. Its just that I am looking for suggestions that are in line with what I am looking for.

If you don't change amps, it will still fail, just takes longer, tho, if you look at the new leads, you have to question it because now there is no cooling in the leads itself. It's wrapped in that heavy sleeve

Did you read the link I posted?

Essentially, it comes down to what kind of sound you are wanting. If you are wanting a a flat response, then go for an QTC of .5, if you want that boomy system, go for 1.0. This is what I get from the article at least.

There is actually still design goals when creating an sealed enclosure. Take a look at the below link to find out more. http://www.reocities.com/kreskovs/Box-Q.html