Sencheezy

wow, I've never seen that before.

Can you make a complete sentence with some details? You haven't even told us what size, what vehicle, what music you like, NOTHING. Please, rethink the thread you want to make, and try again for us to help you.

N2 motor, TC Basket, Zv4 soft parts

Hey Guys, Just wanted to give an update to how my system has been progressing over this past year, particularly with my subwoofer. I've taken some pictures so you guys can take a look at it for yourself. So let me go ahead and state there is no bashing here towards SSA or F.i. has a build house, this is just what I've experienced. But first, let me go ahead and explain my driving habbits. I take a lot of road trips. Anywhere from 3-6 a year. Which most average around the 7 hour mark. Also, I do a lot of driving around as well. Prior to my new job that started in just this past October, I had a 40 mile round trip to work. Outside of that, I also go driving around downtown and around the city during the weekends. This can easily average out to around 100 miles per weekend. Second, I will explain my listening habbits. My listening habbits can be very extreme. I don't listen to any slowed down music and I may listen to DJSNT or Decaf maybe 7% out of all my music. Most of my music comes from an online rap/hip-hop mixtape website and/or direct rip'd albums which I listen via iPod or the traditional CD Player. For those long road trips, I should also mention that I watch movies, for which will be at full volume (40/40). So just figureativily speaking, this may not be 100% accurate, but for my traditonal driving, (to work and back), I may have the volume full tilt for 30-40% of the drive. For driving around the city on the weekend, probabaly more up towards 80% full tilt at which will be long durations, (5+ straight songs back to back) at any given time. For the road trips outside of watching the movie, which again is at full tilt, I will say maybe around 30-40% of the drive is at fulll time, but is more spread out. I.e. full tilt for 20-30 mins then back down to 50% volume or something. So as you can see, I am very hard on my equipment. Now that you have an idea of my driving and listening habbits, I will explain the rest of the system followed by pictures. I have 3 group 31 batteries and 1 stock 130amp alternator supplemented by 1 1/0 run and 1 2gauge power wire from front to back with 2 of the batteires within 3 of the amplifier (crescendo bc5500 at 1ohm). The gain was set by ear which is a little less than half way mark, maybe right at 44 degrees. I've been through two enclosures. One which was 8.3 cuft net, and this one now which is 7 cuft net. On to the pictures. Below is what I noticed in August? Not too sure, but me and Teric estimated this had happen sometime after SBN. As you can see, only one pair was affected, not sure if it was the possitive or negative lead. Keep this in mind as I load the next images. Thanks to the help of Teric, we were able to solder the lead back onto the coil lead as soft parts were not in at the time for an recone.

Out the box with a direct swap no testing, it's a db louder. Testing won't begin until after sbn. Driving there now.

Hello All, I am currently in search for a really good Mid-Bass Driver. My budget is around 200$ per, it "could" be stretched a little higher if needed. I currently am a competitor for the SPL side of things, but for this upcoming season, I am also wanting to compete in SQ. I am not wanting to become a world champion per-say, but I would like to earn a respectable score. Yes I do understand how judgmental SQ can be, as it's all person preference, as well as a judge to judge scoring. For this portion of my audio system, I would like to ignore my SPL installation, and to strictly concentrate on the SQ aspect. I am currently and will like to continually run an 2 way active system. The equipment that I currently have; Image Dynamics Ultra Mini Horns build by Eric Stevens. 100w RMS, 8 ohm impedance, 110 Sensitivity, Recommended Crossover Points: 600-2000 Hz Zed Audio Leviathan. 300x6 @2ohms, 600x3 @4ohms, 2 ohm stable To move forward in this SQ project, I will need a few additional equipment, including an RTA, RTA program, a better Headunit(prefer double din), and some sort of processor. But for now, I am wanting to concentrate on the Mid-Bass Selection. I have decided that I would like to utilize an 12" driver. Now again, please keep in mind that I am not looking to win a championship, just to put up an respectable number. In MECA, they use a 1-100 scale grading system. I took some measurements and they are as follow. 30" Width, 13" Height(rear half of door)/16" Height(front half of door), ~7" Depth(rear half of door)/~9" Depth(front half of door). ~2cuft These measurements are pretty rough, and are on the conservative side. There is more space to be had but would involve more measuring. To sum it up, I am looking for suggestions for a 12" driver that has a high xmax(15mm or better), good sensitivity(88 or better), again, these are blending in with the horns, a high rms value(200rms or better), reasonable space requirement and/or can play IB, and lastly, a relatively flat frequency response. Now, I do understand that everything comes with some sort of sacrifice, I am simply listing some of my personal preference in this driver selection. I should also mention that I do plan on playing the horns from 800hz to 20khz. If I utilize a 24db slope or better, and with proper testing, these can play down as low as 600hz. So this midbass selection will have to play at least up to that point, if not, then I would use the processing to bridge that gap as closely as possible. And I guess I would like these to play as low as 40hz? Some early candidates include: Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax Eminence Delta-12LFA 12" Low Frequency Driver If there is anything I left out, please let me know. And thanks.

essentially. Not really sure why this is the case either lol. Marketing I suppose.

Sure thing.

Thanks Brandon! Yeah we used swede. I haven't seen them in person yet, currently at work LOL. I am anxious, and they are finished just in time. Tweeking will be done after SBN as we are already cutting it really close! Leaving tomorrow for Florida. SQ competition for me won't begin until the 12th of next month most likely.

almost ready for reassembly!!!

2/0 welding/staging cable on the left, 1/0 car audio on the right. I am not arguing the difference in 1/0 and 2/0. I am only stating what I see in real life. lol

As you can see, I am holding the two separate wires. As you can see, they are VERY similar in size. Obviously, from brand to brand, they will vary, but my observation still stands.

omg, lol, ok, I will take pictures later. Not that really hard to follow what I am trying to convey here. As I stated in my FIRST response, the "TOTAL OD", is the same for 2/0 cable as for Car audio 1/0 cable. That was my statement. And again, you can check and verify for yourself. The question of which has more copper, well, that's brand dependent. As well all know companies find ways to alter their ratings.

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective. interesting, anyone else test this? You can try for yourself. Go buy some 2/0 welding cable, then buy some RF 1/0 cable. I'm will to put money they are the same size in total OD. You can buy 4/0 welding cable, and compare it to SHCA 2/0 cable, and again, same szie. I've also confirmed this with speaker wire as well. 6 awg welding cable is the same as 8 awg car audio wire. i got some 1/0 welding cable around so i could test it. for my purposes it doesn't matter. just haven't heard that the size difference was that significant between welding cable and the car audio cable. I assume that car audio cable is oversized or are they using a different rating? we're talking the OD of the copper not including the jacket, right? when I say "Total", that indicates both cable and sleeve.

Well, I'm not bias, of any brand or equipment. Me personally, I'm not a fan of the owner himself. But that's not what we're talking about. If you are only concerned with the product and the product itself, the amps will do rated, as long as you have adequate electrical.

Thanks!

Yes I'm fully aware that AWG is an american standard for measuring cable. This is simply my observance.

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective. interesting, anyone else test this? You can try for yourself. Go buy some 2/0 welding cable, then buy some RF 1/0 cable. I'm will to put money they are the same size in total OD. You can buy 4/0 welding cable, and compare it to SHCA 2/0 cable, and again, same szie. I've also confirmed this with speaker wire as well. 6 awg welding cable is the same as 8 awg car audio wire.

I've seen their amps in person, they look pretty beefy. And a lot of competitors are using them in the lanes. Their subs though, I wouldn't dare using them. They literally feel like subs you could buy at Toys R us LOL

I'm from Toledo, and live in nashville, and travel often.

that hand writing tho LOL GLWS, great subs!

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective.

Buy 2/0 welding cable = 1/0 car audio cable