Syphlyn

That should be replaceable under warranty I'd think. You said it wasn't damaged during shipping? Well then it left Fi in that condition. It must have slipped by when they check things over. I recently got my Zv4 12 and the surround is coming off the basket, more specifically it looks like there is glue missing in 2 spots. I was told to fill out an RMA and usually in these situations they build a whole new driver.

Recently bought my Mechman 240a alternator for my truck. I'm curious as to what you guys do as I'm getting some pretty bad advice from a forum I visit often. It's about 50/50 some people say to fuse while others say don't. Some even call me lazy for thinking of not fusing. It's hard to figure it out when everyone has a different opinion. Mechman told me NOT to fuse it as it could introduce voltage drop across the fusing and it's not needed. Some others tell me my vehicle will burn to the ground. I have all the fuses and holders from KnuKonceptz but if it'll be fine without a fuse I have no issues not using one, makes it easier. So, what's the verdict on here? What do you guys do?

Yeah my truck engine bay looks very similar to yours, the alt is right on top and is maybe 18-24 inches from the battery. I also got that Tech Flex insultherm fibreglass wire sleeve, which is going on all wires I install under the hood. It's good up to 1200 degrees and is pretty hard to cut, even with a brand new x acto knife blade.

I could probably do with out it, but for some people I know it works because it tends to set your gains lower then clipping so for someone who doesn't know what they're doing (old me) it works fine as they set it where it is and leave it, sure they might not be getting 100% but they won't be clipping. On another note $150 is a complete rip off, I paid that but oh well. $50 would be a better price.

It used to be a widely held belief that the world was flat. If a guy walked in to a pub and asked a table of men who happened to be "rounders" if the world was flat, they'd say no it's round. But an individual sitting across the isle from them hears this and leans over to the guy and says "yeah, the guys at that table are just nuts. Walk up to any other table and they'll tell you it's flat ! "The world isn't flat, no matter how many other tables say that it is. Like I said I used it as a starting point see how everything sounds. Like I set it with a 0db tone and it was quiet so I manually turned the gain up, and now its sounds much better, no clipping or smell that I can detect. I have a PAC-LC1 so I can adjust the levels for each song as like we've both said every song and freq is different some may clip while others could go way louder.

This forum doesn't approve of the DD1. Go to any other forums and you'll hear some that love it and some that suggest to use that or an oscope. I have a DD1 and It works great, the only downside is it only "approves" one frequency (40hz). I used it to set my gain and then fine tuned it while playing some music I frequently listen to. Probably going to get a lot of hate for it, but oh well.

holy shit! never noticed that. Wow thanks man!

Hey guys, Currently in the works of trying to figure out a box that will work with my Zv4. Here's some info: - Going in a 2000 f150 ext cab in place of the smaller rear seat.- Using my Saz-2000D amp- Sundown Zv4 12, suggested 2.25-2.75 cu ft- Wanting tuning around 30hz-32hz- Max Dem: W: 17 | D: 18 | H: 26 or so |- Would prefer sub to fire upwards.- I love rap music and bass heavy electronic similar to white clouds from decaf or lights from bassnectar. Here's my original box and design: http://imgur.com/a/WqOOl No sure how well it'll work and if there's enough port area. So here's another very similar box with a couple small changes that move me from 14.85 sq inches of port to 15.74. Not sure if that'll make a difference: http://imgur.com/nZEi3zR. I know the width is 1 more inch but I think I can squeeze it in. Feel free to design a completely new box or suggest changes. I'm not sure but I heard torres miscalculates the box volume (slightly larger) resulting in a slightly lower tuning, not sure if there's any truth to this.

Oh god these designs are so old lol. Here's my new updated one: http://imgur.com/a/rsjTk There's 5.5 inches between the end of the port wall on the inside and the other wall, so I would think i'd be fine. My center line down the middle is 37 inches but if I add the double baffle and the two port walls and add 1 3/8 I don't get 37. I'm extremely confused lol.

So if my port is 37 inches down the center line and one wall is of the box walls and keeps going that effectively adds another 1 3/8 (my port is 2.75) inches to my port length making it 38 3/8?

My port is 34.5 inches long down the center line of the port. Does torres use the inner wall?

Hello, I recently placed my order #10622 which consisted of one (1) Sundown X12 Dual 2 ohm woofer. I've had some thoughts and have come to realize I wish I would have ordered the Zv4 instead. My order got shipped out last week and is supposed to be here on Monday August 17th. How can I handle this situation properly to be able to get a Zv4 instead of an X12? Do I have to ship it back? Can I tell FedEX to hold it at the current location and ship it back, get a store credit and immediately purchase the Zv4? I messed up, and I realize it's probably going to cost me more then if I had just ordered the Zv4 in the first place. I should have waited longer but I think the Zv4 is better suited for my application and possible future plans. Thanks, Dylan

Hey guys, I've decided to run with the Zv4 on my Sundown SAZ-2000D, can't wait to see the lows this thing hits! Anyways I have my box design, thanks to Joe X! It was originally planned for an X12 but I think it might work for my Zv4. I'll be pushing the full potential of the SAZ-2000D to this sub @ 1 ohm. I have a 270A Mechman alternator coming soon! Anyways here's my box http://imgur.com/a/4avyv 2.5 cubic feet 32hz 39 sq inches of port 15.5 sq inches of port/cubic foot 2 baffles Sub/port is firing upwards The box is already at it's max width and depth that I can go to, but I can always add some height if needed. Just wanna know if that box is ideal for my Zv4 and if there's enough port area. Thanks for your time.

Hey guys, I've made a couple of posts here regarding my order and some questions. Loving the SSA forums so far, it's been a great experience. Not to mention the excellent service I've gotten from SSA. MAde my first purchase of the Sundown X12 and recently switched my order to a Zv4. The great Customer service will make me a regular around here starting with my MechMan alternator I'll be ordering in Sept. Anyways my names Dylan and I live in BC. Some of my hobbies are car audio, snowmobiling, dirt biking, and netflix. Thanks eh, Dylan

Not sure if you got my email, but I sent one this morning. Just checking in as it's probably best to figure this out before the weekend is over and the shipping resumes!

I hope so too, picked it up off caraudio.com classifieds for $350 shipped. It's in perfect condition and worked great when I hooked it up to my Type Rs.

Thanks guys, I feel either the X or Z will work good, the Z will leave future amp upgrades open if/when my current one dies.

Hey guys, I have a SAZ-2000D with the X12 I just ordered going in my 2.5 cubic foot box @ 32 hz. I ordered the X12 Dual 2 ohm woofer, but now I'm having thoughts that I should've maybe ordered the Zv4. My fear is that 2k is too much for the X12. Some people mentioned that 2k for a Zv4 is low. I have no plans to upgrade in the near future, I'd like to stick with 2k. It's my daily driver so the sub will see 30 min to 1 hour of play at a time. So did I make the right choice? Will the X12 do fine with that amp? As far as I'm aware the only difference between the two is power handling. Thanks, Dylan

I think I've decided to try and get myself a Zv4. Price isn't an issue and if in the future I decide to go bigger I'll have the sub for it and maybe add another Zv4 and a big amp. Hopefully SSA will help me get it sorted it. We'll see.

Not so much about the numbers as it is about trying to avoid cooking the X12. I want my $400 sub to last.

Then those people are idiots. No such thing as underpowering.The way you've asked the question would tend to have me recommend the Z for you. Either will be fine however. I ordered the X12 already, supposed to be here Monday. Unless it's absolutely dire that I get Zv4 I'm guessing the X12 will do what I want it to at 2k rms. Also there will probably be some box rise so chances are it won't be seeing the full 2k. Maybe around 1700 considering the 2000d was clamped at 2400w @ 12.5v. You're reading WAY too much into the numbers. If you were trying to fit to some specific limitations for a competition class you might have to worry this much, but for daily it's just not necessary. The 2k may be a bit much so just watch it with the gain setting and volume knob. Listen/smell for stress from the sub and you should be just fine. So would you recommend the Zv4? I just don't want to run into issues with the X12 if I'm pushing it. If the Zv4 is a better fit I'll try to get one instead...

Then those people are idiots. No such thing as underpowering.The way you've asked the question would tend to have me recommend the Z for you. Either will be fine however. I ordered the X12 already, supposed to be here Monday. Unless it's absolutely dire that I get Zv4 I'm guessing the X12 will do what I want it to at 2k rms. Also there will probably be some box rise so chances are it won't be seeing the full 2k. Maybe around 1700 considering the 2000d was clamped at 2400w @ 12.5v.

I'd consider myself to know what I'm doing. Hell my type Rs and MRP-M1000 were 6 years old and still going strong. Edit: Even though I know it's not popular on here I have an SMD-DD1. I use it to find the point and set my gain. I have a PAC-LC1 to manually adjust the signal/gain to each song by ear. I'm aware that a 40hz tone won't apply to listening to music, which is why I use the PAC-LC1 to "fine tune" on each song to avoid clipping.

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??